I have reached the 75 km odo and according to the manual. check the brake pads for wear and tear. My eyesight is not very good so I resorted to taking a picture of the brakes. But that really did not work that well.

Even at my 250+ lbs, I don't believe I would wear the brake pads that quickly.

My thoughts are more into 500 km before I start taking the a look and inspecting it. I like to apply the notion "if it ain't broke don't fix" on the more sensitive items of the bike (less movement).

Is there any other way to check the brake pads without actually pulling the pads off the callipers?

Quote from: Ddaybc on May 24, 2024, 08:27:08 AMin "Vancouver" but I don't know their location.

Thanks for the info. I may need it in the future.

Their website says 1290 Odlum Dr, Vancouver, BC V5L 3L9

Hi CanadianBrickCafe,
Check out Grin Technologies. They are situated somewhere in the Lower Mainland. I'm further north so I usually say they are in "Vancouver" but I don't know their location.
They can supply you with controllers, displays, direct drive hub motors and gear driven hub motors.

you may have fried the controller.   my guess is the motor is okay. 

Hi, newbie here. I plan to eventually get two e-bikes, one like the Radster Trail, which I won't be able to take with me, and one which I could pack easily to fit in a small SUV (Honda CRV, no tow package).

The Rad Expand 5 Plus ticks all my "want" boxes for a portable bike except for size and weight of the rider. I'm 5'11" and my weight is ~255 lbs. That's quite a bit more than the rating. Does this mean I'll break it soon if I tried it?

Because of this, I may go with the bigger bike first (to ride from home) and see how much weight I can sustainably lose to get down near the weight limit for this one.

Thanks in advance for your answers.

Scheduled mobile service with Velofix and Dan determined that both front and rear brake pads were worn out. Replaced pads for front wheel and all is well, however the rear brakes were so worn the piston was damaged so have had to order replacement rear brake assemble from Rad. They have parts in stock now just waiting for parts to ship...

You said "rear wheel jammed". Does that mean you can't turn it or get going under pedal power only? 

Start by replacing the brake pads - they wear out and the brake lever goes all the way in when you squeeze it.

OK, if anyone is interested - this is now on EBay here:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/204800779966?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dzh1e2NKQ3C&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Quote from: inoxa on May 18, 2024, 06:54:18 AMwhy not use extensions? they are available.

Using the shorter step through controller is not a good idea for the high step because besides the risk of having more loose connections in the power cable if one adds an extension to them, having more connectors will also cause more resistance in the power cable than if only using a uncut full length cable.  Additionally, the ends of the shorter cables of the step-through model controller will stop partway down the battery downtube which means the thick power cable connector will stick up in the battery tray channel higher and causes the metal plate that sits under the battery to bend upwards. this causes the battery to lift slightly up and makes it hard to lock the battery in.

Although it works the same as the right controller, if one has a high step Rover 6 +, I would not recommend getting the ST (step through) model controller.