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RAD CITY 5+ HANDLEBARS

Started by Dino73, March 23, 2024, 03:34:47 PM

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Dino73

Hello, I have recently purchased a Rad City 5+ commuter and I am looking to change the handlebars to a straighter more aggressive handlebar. Like the ones on the HS 6. Are these bars inter-changable? The current bars are for cruising, not really good fro more aggressive hill climbing. I like to stand up when hill climbing to get more torque and require less battery power/ drain to get up the hills. I live in Victoria on Vancouver island and we have plenty of hills to climb here.

John Rose

I don't think Rad sells handlebars separately, at least not by looking at their site. I suppose a third-party handlebar should be fine as long as the diameters (clamp, grips) are the same.

Is your RadCity 5+ the orange "special edition" model? If so, you can't adjust the riser angle if you needed to.
RadMini ST 2 / RadExpand 5

spyder918

#2
Quote from: Dino73 on March 23, 2024, 03:34:47 PM
Hello, I have recently purchased a Rad City 5+ commuter and I am looking to change the handlebars to a straighter more aggressive handlebar. Like the ones on the HS 6. Are these bars inter-changable? The current bars are for cruising, not really good fro more aggressive hill climbing. I like to stand up when hill climbing to get more torque and require less battery power/ drain to get up the hills. I live in Victoria on Vancouver island and we have plenty of hills to climb here.

You should be able to.  I changed the bar on my RR5 ST.  You just need to make sure you get the right stem size to fit your bike.

Naranja_CT5+

I agree with the last poster. It looked pretty straightforward. The only thing I question is how easy it is to remove and reinstall the grips.

Secondly, it?s interesting you brought up standup pedalling. Is that possible on pedal assist? I thought one of the reasons people get an e-bike is to eliminate hard pedalling.
Literally is LITERALLY the most annoying word of the decade.

spyder918

Quote from: Naranja_CT5+ on March 24, 2024, 07:15:51 AM
I agree with the last poster. It looked pretty straightforward. The only thing I question is how easy it is to remove and reinstall the grips.

Secondly, it?s interesting you brought up standup pedalling. Is that possible on pedal assist? I thought one of the reasons people get an e-bike is to eliminate hard pedalling.

super easy to remove the grips.  just use alcohol in a spray bottle and a trim tool to open the grip a bit..squirt the alcohol in and star twisting.

SemperVee

 handlebars can be changed... I did.    the grips twist off.    Can be put back on with old motorcycle trick.  Spray some water with dish soap inside grip.  Lubes up install and when dry stays put.  got my HB's off amazon. 

handlebar

Before derailleurs were common, handlebars were typically high enough to stand and pedal. Derailleurs had enough gears to maintain 20 mph or faster, but that required leaning low to reduce air resistance. Leaning over for low bars put too much weight on the hands, so seats were moved forward. (Schwinn moved seats forward in 1932 for another reason: to make their bicycles look more like American motorcycles.)

Moving the seat forward meant the knee was bent more sharply with the pedal at top dead center, and you can't pedal very well with a knee bent more than 90 degrees. As a result, riders don't typically apply much torque except between 2 and 4 o'clock, viewing the right pedal. That limits the power they can apply per revolution. It's also inefficient. On each revolution, the knee has to move up and down 14 inches, while the ankle has to move 14 inches up and down and 14 inches back and forth, all to apply torque for 7 inches.

It was proved in 1885 that if you move the seat farther back (maybe 12 to 18 inches behind the bottom bracket, depending on the length of the rider's legs), you can get a much longer power stroke by starting it at top dead center. You have to lean forward somewhat to concentrate your weight over the pedals, but if the bars are perhaps  ten inches higher than the seat, you can lean forward without putting much weight on your hands.

A lot of English bikes were designed that way before 1900. In 1930, Raleigh made a documentary proving it also worked for children. A man with a 28" Raleigh bought his 10-year-old daughter a 26" model. In those days, English children didn't ride, so she spent a couple of days learning. Then they pedaled over some high hills to a town a hundred miles away. She was interviewed in her nineties. She said that instead of getting a ride back, they pedaled a hundred miles home the next day.

My Radmission had similar geometry to a Radcity. I bought a layback seat post and heated it with a propane torch to bend it more, to get my seat back far enough for my legs. Cantilevered so far back, the post needed support. I cut a plywood triangle of the desired height. I put a notch at the top for the post and two at the bottom for the rack. I raised the post, put the support in place, lowered the post, and clamped the post. The rack and the post lock the support in position. I used not one but two risers to raise the bars enough for stable, comfortable riding with the seat back.

This greatly improves my hill climbing, and it's much more efficient than standing up. Standing on the pedals entails moving a lot of body weight up and down.

seand1109

I am still looking for the high rise handle bars and a banana seat

Naranja_CT5+

Quote from: seand1109 on June 02, 2024, 09:32:31 AMI am still looking for the high rise handle bars and a banana seat
Have you tried Amazon? I used "banana seat" and "lowrider handlebars" on search and got a hit. You may have to check the diameter though. How about the Radrunner handlebars?
Literally is LITERALLY the most annoying word of the decade.

seand1109

I have seen a few but it will be a winter project... just injecting an idea

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