News:

Welcome Rad Power Bike owners!

Buying a Rad Power Bike? Support the forum and use my affiliate link: https://radpowerbikes.pxf.io/Wq1EzZ

Be sure to sign up for a free account to see posted images.

Note: To help support to ongoing costs of running
the site we use Amazon affiliate links.

Main Menu

RadRover 6 Plus!

Started by Ryan, July 20, 2021, 05:07:37 AM

Previous topic - Next topic Rad E-Bike April 2024 Promotion

Ryan

Rad just released a new model for 2021, the RadRover 6 Plus. Curious to hear what people think: https://bit.ly/3isowrU

Here's our coverage of the new model: https://ebikeescape.com/radrover-6-plus/

JimInPT

#1
I just watched their intro video, even though I'm happy with my MiniST and have no interest in a giant Rover; was curious to see what's new and likely to appear on other models.

My conclusion is whether hydraulic brakes are worth another $300 to a potential buyer - are there any other real improvements to consider?  "Sleek" isn't worth $300, especially since there's no improvement in standard battery capacity, weight capacity or most other things.  I'm thinking they have optional higher-capacity batteries in the works, at a "slight" additional cost of course - the mount location seems to have allowed for much-thicker battery packs.  I was assuming the next product line refresh would include higher-capacity batteries standard, as competitors are pushing out 18-20Ah battery packs for longer range. 

And that USB dongle?  It's no longer built into the display and is an optional accessory at added cost?  Yeah, those won't be stolen or vandalized.  I'd bet those were cooked up by the design team when they switched displays and the Chinese supplier didn't include a USB outlet in their design; the dongle is a step backwards.  Happy to see they've apparently improved the display and added a clock/timer function and separate headlight button; looking forward to seeing if the power timeout/cutoff is now adjustable or able to be turned off - drives me nuts when my trip odometer is cleared during a 10-minute stop that drains almost no battery power, because I log my trip distances.  And I assume with the new battery design they've finally fixed the problem of one blank key being able to unlock and steal the battery from any current Rad model. 

It looks nice and I'm pretty sure will be well-liked by owners, but is it enough to compete with other brands in the same sector, especially now that it's $2,000?  We'll see.  I'm wondering if Rad had more in mind but with supply-chain problems, the China Virus and Potato Joe's inflation maybe more wasn't possible in the planned schedule and budget.

I expect slurping reviews from the usual suspects, but looking forward to Citizen Cycle's video and those from actual owners who shelled out their own money.  Yeah, I'm initially a bit skeptical and grumpy, but I've come from an environment where our products went obsolete every 9-12 months and we had to hustle and work hard to be competitive and best in our sector with constant improvements and better customer value.

Nice to see Rad moving forward, though.  Now, what did I miss that makes the new model exciting and desirable?
Shucks Ma'am, I'm no "Hero Member", I just like to wear this cape.

Altema

The hydraulic brakes were needed. Even though the originals work ok, it's a pain adjusting them every week.
They had to integrate the battery eventually. Although the shark battery is easy to upgrade, you still need to change the mounting plate which makes the original battery useless. The external battery was also a key point that every reviewer dinged them on, so it was time. The new controls are a big step forward, as is the ten segment battery meter. I would have preferred they put in an actual percent and voltage meter  though, and I hope they fixed the trip meter resetting every time you take a break.
I'm looking forward to performance testing, though they only needed to up the amps and claim "750 watts" nominal, while skirting the law with more peak power like everyone else. The stock Rad motor already handles 1600 watts anyways, but the controller holds it back. I also hope the controller programming is silky smooth like usual. I've ridden far more expensive bikes and e-mopeds, and the programming and controls were downright jerky and crude.

CG31

So this time last year I ordered 2 Radrovers for 1400 each. Now they are 2000 each which is 1200 more than I spent. This would have ruled me out.

Ryan

I shared some of my thoughts here: https://youtu.be/l6pP5Rt2S5U

I am slightly bummed about the USB dongle but to be honest I don't use it a whole lot. We'll see how much more the RadRover 6 Plus pulls up hills. I do like the more modern displays though and I really do enjoy hydraulic brakes. I've spent a fair bit of time trying to get the mechanical ones perfect. What's going to be interesting is to see what else comes out in the $2kish range. The fat tire ebike market is already saturated. The Aventon Aventure of course comes to mind at $100 cheaper.

Altema - I talked about the 750-watt limit in my video above. I just wish the rules were more clear. It seems like Rad takes an absolute on the 750 watts but clearly, other manufacturers don't. Though to be fair 750 watts is actually enough power for a majority of riders.

CG31- It's funny that you say that since I was just starting to think that the demographic buying the most ebikes aren't as price-sensitive (I certainly am).

jbfoster

Glad I got my Rover 5 when I did. $2,000 is a deal breaker for me. A lot of things that I have bought and shopped for since covid hit has gone up. To me these companies are just screwing the customer over raising prices. All I hear is covid covid covid. My answer to that is BS.

Jim

ericwn

Looks like way better disc brakes and much nicer displays and buttons- some of the main interface elements.

It somehow has a new and different look to it and I don't necessarily associate that with the Rad brand. Maybe we just need more models being brought over onto this new platform to get used to it more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

JimInPT

#7
Quote from: ericwn on July 21, 2021, 04:35:14 AM
Looks like way better disc brakes and much nicer displays and buttons- some of the main interface elements.

I think the brake upgrade is the most-meaningful improvement, but can't hydraulic brakes can be retrofitted to the current models, with aftermarket parts, if desired?  It is a nicer-looking overall design, for sure.

The bigger control buttons and separating out the power and headlight functions may be an advantage, especially with full gloves in colder weather, but I don't see the point in having to use two displays to see what's currently available on a single display (except for the new clock functions) and the smaller one takes up a lot more handlebar space than the current remote.  EBR pointed out that the smaller display is dimmer than the large one, but waved that flaw away as he usually does and if I saw it correctly it now takes simultaneous pressing of two buttons to toggle between the lifetime odometer and trip odometer - that's not better at all IMHO.  Is there any level-with-horizon space even available for a phone or camera mount, or a functional headlight?

It also seems, if I have it right after watching a couple videos, that Rad has locked-down the controller to limit top motor speed to 20mph, whereas my Mini was tweaked to about 24mph (from 32 to 40km/hr) with a quick setting change shortly after I got it assembled.  And no improvement in the battery capacity at all strikes me as a significant missed opportunity.  Bolton, Himiway and others with more powerful bike designs and tweak-friendly interfaces may have a market opportunity here, especially if these changes spread to the other Rad models, but I'm still very happy with my MiniST and Rad's customer service so I'm content to watch from the sidelines as I'm always interested in business competition and development.
Shucks Ma'am, I'm no "Hero Member", I just like to wear this cape.

Altema

Quote from: Ryan on July 20, 2021, 06:08:53 PM
I shared some of my thoughts here: https://youtu.be/l6pP5Rt2S5U

I am slightly bummed about the USB dongle but to be honest I don't use it a whole lot. We'll see how much more the RadRover 6 Plus pulls up hills. I do like the more modern displays though and I really do enjoy hydraulic brakes. I've spent a fair bit of time trying to get the mechanical ones perfect. What's going to be interesting is to see what else comes out in the $2kish range. The fat tire ebike market is already saturated. The Aventon Aventure of course comes to mind at $100 cheaper.

Altema - I talked about the 750-watt limit in my video above. I just wish the rules were more clear. It seems like Rad takes an absolute on the 750 watts but clearly, other manufacturers don't. Though to be fair 750 watts is actually enough power for a majority of riders.

CG31- It's funny that you say that since I was just starting to think that the demographic buying the most ebikes aren't as price-sensitive (I certainly am).

The USB dongle is a bummer for me, and I did use it. Being on the display, I could easily charge my phone, my rearview camera screen, and I could run my GoPro camera indefinitely. The Cycle Analyst display has no USB output, so I replaced the hollow metal tube for my handlebar extension I use for accessories, and replaced it with a same diameter power bank.

The 750 watts is usually enough power for most. Being able to set my power levels, I was able to draw some conclusions on the common e-bike power levels.
250 watts: Adequate for 15mph, but 20 mph can be reached with pedaling. Not adequate for hills.
350 watts: 20mph can be maintained on flat ground, needs help going uphill.
500 watts: 20mph is no problem, even on slight inclines. Most hills can be manageable, but avoid long or very steep grades using throttle only.
750 watts: 20mph with slight inclines and a headwind are not a problem. Hills on normal bike paths can be done n throttle only, and pedaling up hills is only needed if you want to go faster.

Rickyboy

Quote from: Altema on July 20, 2021, 01:26:34 PM
The hydraulic brakes were needed. Even though the originals work ok, it's a pain adjusting them every week.
They had to integrate the battery eventually. Although the shark battery is easy to upgrade, you still need to change the mounting plate which makes the original battery useless. The external battery was also a key point that every reviewer dinged them on, so it was time. The new controls are a big step forward, as is the ten segment battery meter. I would have preferred they put in an actual percent and voltage meter  though, and I hope they fixed the trip meter resetting every time you take a break.
I'm looking forward to performance testing, though they only needed to up the amps and claim "750 watts" nominal, while skirting the law with more peak power like everyone else. The stock Rad motor already handles 1600 watts anyways, but the controller holds it back. I also hope the controller programming is silky smooth like usual. I've ridden far more expensive bikes and e-mopeds, and the programming and controls were downright jerky and crude.
Hi ... I'm a new member here on the forum and just recently purchased the Rad Rover 6 for both my wife and I.  The day previous to the release I ALMOST !!! bought the Rad 5.  So although the price had increased  { in my opinion not a whole lot } I was glad I waited a day. But I had no idea there was even a "6" going to be released. Nothing like getting the "latest and greatest" model available. My disappointed kicked in when I learned { before purchasing} that delivery wasn't going to happen until the fall. Oh well that's the breaks. My wife and I are getting "up there" ... me a retired motorcycle rider, at 67 yrs old and my wife not too far behind me. So we want to stay active and keep the juices flowing and can't wait to "get radding".  So in the meantime I'm reading everything Rad ... I want to purchase a couple of things to be ready for assembly, like a small torque wrench. I have a couple of large ones I use to torque car tires etc but nothing small. I also am trying to find out what size the pedal nuts are that need to be torqued so I can purchase the "crowfoot" attachment for the torque wrench.... Any suggestions?   Well happy "radding".

JimInPT

#10
Quote from: Rickyboy on July 28, 2021, 01:02:07 PMI want to purchase a couple of things to be ready for assembly, like a small torque wrench. I have a couple of large ones I use to torque car tires etc but nothing small. I also am trying to find out what size the pedal nuts are that need to be torqued so I can purchase the "crowfoot" attachment for the torque wrench.... Any suggestions?   Well happy "radding".

This is a VERY nice small torque wrench set:  https://amzn.to/37BS69q  They make 3 different finishes; I think this is the easiest to read for older eyes.

And since you won't be messing with pedals very often, this will do fine and fits various sizes:  https://amzn.to/3iCRQwY
Have fun!
Shucks Ma'am, I'm no "Hero Member", I just like to wear this cape.

Rickyboy

#11
Quote from: JimInPT on July 28, 2021, 04:29:28 PM
Quote from: Rickyboy on July 28, 2021, 01:02:07 PMI want to purchase a couple of things to be ready for assembly, like a small torque wrench. I have a couple of large ones I use to torque car tires etc but nothing small. I also am trying to find out what size the pedal nuts are that need to be torqued so I can purchase the "crowfoot" attachment for the torque wrench.... Any suggestions?   Well happy "radding".

This is a VERY nice small torque wrench set:  https://amzn.to/37BS69q  They make 3 different finishes; I think this is the easiest to read for older eyes.

And since you won't be messing with pedals very often, this will do fine and fits various sizes:  https://amzn.to/3iCRQwY

Have fun!
Well I appreciate the help and suggestions Jim, but I'm going to have to look for a cheaper torque wrench. That's a little to rich for me.....being a pensioner on a fixed income and all. ... and unfortunately the the pedal wrench is out of stock apparently. But I do appreciate your help and suggestions. Do you happen to know the size needed for the pedals? I'd just buy the "crowfoot" attachment that will fit onto whichever torque wrench I end up buying.  Thanks again !!!

JimInPT

#12
Quote from: Rickyboy on July 29, 2021, 08:47:29 AMWell I appreciate the help and suggestions Jim, but I'm going to have to look for a cheaper torque wrench. That's a little to rich for me.....being a pensioner on a fixed income and all. ... and unfortunately the the pedal wrench is out of stock apparently. But I do appreciate your help and suggestions. Do you happen to know the size needed for the pedals? I'd just buy the "crowfoot" attachment that will fit onto whichever torque wrench I end up buying.  Thanks again !!!
You don't need to worry about the pedal torque; just tighten those suckers down hard.  An adjustable crescent  or an open-end wrench will work fine.  You'll need a low-range torque wrench now and then for handlebar bolts, accessories and other things that might break if overtightened, but can loosen up if not tightened down enough.  I couldn't find anything other than the one I linked to do those jobs properly, and it's very high quality for the price.  Have used it frequently, especially in the weeks after I got my bike, when I was constantly fiddling with handlebar and seatpost settings.  Maybe you could just borrow or rent one?
Shucks Ma'am, I'm no "Hero Member", I just like to wear this cape.

CG31

#13
Another thing I noticed that I don't particularly like is the taillight mounted to the rear fender. Now that may be fine but if you purchase the Rad rear rack now what. The previous version you could just remove the taillight and mount it on the rack with the provided cable extender.  I bet now you would have to purchase the taillight separate to mount it to the rack which IMO is a much better option.

JimInPT

Quote from: CG31 on August 02, 2021, 05:56:46 PM
Another thing I noticed that I don't particularly like is the taillight mounted to the rear fender. Now that may be fine but if you purchase the Rad rear rack now what. The previous version you could just remove the taillight and mount it on the rack with the provided cable extender.  I bet now you would have to purchase the taillight separate to mount it to the rack which IMO is a much better option.

No, it's fine, at least with the factory rack.  Here's a pic:



One of those things you'd expect them to have figured out by now, and they did.  Haven't seen if there's a taillight-flashing mode like we have now.
Shucks Ma'am, I'm no "Hero Member", I just like to wear this cape.