Hey! Sorry for the delay. I did reply to your private message, but I'll put it here since there's some additional info in your post.

1. I do have several aftermarket motors, but I don't have my original Rad motor, so I would not be able to give you an accurate resistance number. You can check to see if all three phases are working though, by disconnecting the main motor plug, and shorting two of the phase connections with a jumper clip or some other method. Feel how the wheel feels turning backwards, and when you short two of the phase wires together, the motor will be more difficult to turn and feel "notchy". Turning the wheel forward won't work because of the clutch, and when you do turn it backwards, watch out for the pedals.

2. The whole "true 750" story is a long one, but the Rad motor IS a 750 watt motor, and will handle peaks of 1741 watts. A lot of it is marketing spiel. That being said, the "upgrade" motor is a decent one, and should plug directly into your stock controller. A direct link to the motor is here: https://area13ebikes.com/products/bafang-fat-bike-hub-motor

3. The upgrade motor will come with the correct connector, according to my experience and the current photos on their website. But, double check with them to make sure.

4. Area 13 is where I got mine (all four of them!), and the current price is $229.99. You will need the freewheel removal tool, or a new freewheel.

A little more power? (Me grinning mischievously). They also sell a 35 amp controller kit which was plug and play for me, although one of the cables was a little short. This controller should work with a stock Rad motor and the upgrade motor. If I recall correctly, the speed I obtained was 23 mph with the stock motor, and about 27 with the upgrade motor. Area 13 has a new version of their upgrade motor, and the number of windings will change the RPM per volt rating, so your mileage, er, velocity mar vary. 

Hello Ben!

I had to look these up since my model is different. These instruction are from Google, and they seem to be accurate.

1. Access the Settings Menu:
Turn the RadWagon on.
Hold down the "Mode" button.
While holding "Mode", simultaneously press the "Up" and "Down" buttons. You should see the settings menu appear.

2. Navigate to Speed Limit:
Press the "Mode" button once to cycle through the settings until you reach the "Speed Limit" setting.

3. Adjust the Speed Limit:
Use the "Up" and "Down" buttons to adjust the speed limit to your desired value.

4. Save the Change:
Press the "Mode" button to save the new speed limit.
Important Note:
The specific button combinations and steps may vary slightly depending on your RadWagon's specific model and controller.

Which model e-bike is it?

Quote from: inoxa on January 20, 2024, 07:54:19 AM
Looks like the Rovers are in line with Pre-Pandemic pricing but some adjustment for inflation.

Their City Bike must be their bread and butter holding the price higher.

The trike must be a bust.  Maybe another Mission in the making to disappear.

The Rad trike kind of had it's rug pulled out from under it by the Lectric trike, even though I and others felt the Rad was higher quality. There's lots of trikes by other companies now, so I don't imagine the Rad version will ever be a hot seller.

...I just have a new job which often leaves me burned out at the end of the day! I still get to ride a few times a week, but it's always dark by the time I get home, so rides are shorter and closer to home. This past week we finally got winter with -25? F windchills, but it's the ice that has kept me from riding 🥶

How is the RadMini 4 doing? Excellent. It's been dead reliable and has about 8,000 miles on it now, with 5,918 of those being on the Phaserunner. The throttle is still buttery smooth, and the dynamic pedal assist is working so well that I like it better than some torque sensing systems I rode last year. I increased the maximum battery amperage from 60 to 80 amps, and the controller and motor really seem to like the extra overhead. The new sweet spot in sport mode is 3,200 watts, and the bike is a riot at that power level, but I'll be honest and say 750 watts is what I mostly use when riding solo. The normal group rides are over, but I still hang out and ride with buddies in Ann Arbor occasionally. A lot of them have Sur Rons, and keeping up with them is where the extra power comes in handy.

Quote from: JTK77 on October 16, 2023, 08:51:06 PM

Quote from: ajtosh77 on October 16, 2023, 02:33:49 PM

Quote from: JTK77 on October 16, 2023, 11:05:34 AM
Yes thats The 6 turn one.
I'm using modified custom KT controller.
Some info regarding my Rad (and motor).
https://ebikes.ca/projectgallery/high-power-fat-bike-with-water-cooled-g062-motor-finland-preview

Wow. That is beyond what I am willing/able to take on. So, unless Bolton gives me some better configuration; I think I'll just be cool with the current top speed.

Andrew

You can upgrade your controller to one with field weakening feature for more speed. Phaserunner would be good combination with G062.

JTK77 is right; you'll need field weakening (top speed overdrive as some call it) to get above your motor's natural RPM per volt parameters. Even without the mods to his motor, he would still get a higher speed because of the larger diameter wheels. Any controller with field weakening will do, but I've had good results with the Phaserunner on a RadMini 4. 35mph is no problem on a single battery, 40mph on dual batteries because there's less voltage sag (and more amps for the FW). My bike mods were originally designed for hill climbing and towing other bikes, but the extra speed was a nice bonus. Downside to a controller change is you'll need to make a custom wiring harness, which can take a lot of work, and may not be worth the effort some something you'll use once in a while.

The wear on the battery does not match the 30 miles of supposed use. I suspect the display was replaced, or they swapped the battery with an older bike. Ask for a warranty on the battery. The spoke missing is a red flag. Is the spoke nipple still in the wheel, or is that missing too? And, is the hole damaged? Broken spokes on a RadMini could be an oversight, but it could also indicate overloading and severe abuse.

Quote from: Jttoddy on October 25, 2021, 06:37:10 AM
Hello, first time posting. I have a Radrunner1 and had the following questions;
1.    Will the Bolton 35a controller work with the 1000w Bafang rear hub motor(G062.1000D 06)?
2.    What would be the recommended/best settings to ensure no overheating of any of the
components?
3.    What is the max wattage or volts (not sure how it works) that I should allow it to run at and
for how long?
4.    Can I upgrade any other components, wires, connectors, etc. for less resistance?
Also, I would like to install a new larger 4" to 6" led headlight and blinkers, and had the
following questions;
1.     What would be needed for install? I assume I need a finger switch for blinkers, and possibly
some sort of relay or module.
2.    Will a new headlight work with the Bolton display headlight controls?
I also have and plan to install a dual crown front shock, Tektro Dorado 4 piston brakes, GT
performer handle bars & grips, and Innova 4 1/4" Shield tires.
Will post pics when finished, hopefully this week, controller is delivered tomorrow!
Thanks Again!

1. Check with Area 13 (formerly Bolton), and just ask if their Rad upgrade controller is compatible with the G062. However, if you are staying with the 35amp controller, I'd recommend the 750 watt replacement motor instead. Both motors will handle the full power of that controller, so you won't see a difference. Also, the 750 watt motor is an easy swap, while the G062 needs to be laced into the wheel.
2. Depends on your needs, but as long as there are no errors in the setup, the 35 amp controller does not have enough power to overheat the G062.
3. The Bolton controller will handle up to 52 volt batteries, and will deliver a maximum of 1741 watts.
4. The most important upgrade in wiring will be the scrawny power wires that come from the battery. As for the blinkers, make sure they are 48 volts, and most come with the finger switch. You may need to tap into the power line from the battery, and you'll need an inline fuse where you tap into the power. There are also blinkers that mount on the handlebar ends. Any 48 volt LED headlight should work as long as the current draw is within the Bolton controller specifications. Check with them, as those specs may have changed.

Quote from: John Rose on October 29, 2023, 01:53:54 AM
Something else I just thought of... If it is deemed to be a motorcycle/moped in England, does that mean he also can't ride The RadExpand 5 on lanes and paths reserved for EAPCs and acoustic bikes?
That would really suck.

["Acoustic bike" - I totally stole that term from Eilis on the Electroheads Youtube channel.]

I've heard Eilis use that term, and I chuckle when I hear it. Being an audio engineer, it makes no sense. The bike that makes it's presence known with sound waves? Can you strum it?

My RadMini has been a trooper for 8,000 miles, and I use it to tow other bikes when they break down or run out of battery.

I started off by making a list of needs, the RadMini 4 was a good fit, and I have no regrets. I do wish I had gotten the Mini step through for my wife when it was available. She wanted to wait, then they discontinued it, and I don't like the Expand.

Quote from: Naranja_CT5+ on September 13, 2023, 06:02:40 AM
I don?t know where I read it but they say 1 cycle is equal to 100% charging time. Meaning if you have a battery status of 50% and you charge it, that?s half of one cycle. They also implied that a battery life has approximately 800 cycle.

This is interesting because RAD says you should charge your battery every time you go for a ride. My average ride is probably going to be in the 5-10km per ride. Even if I used 10% per ride, it?s going to take multiple charging to reach one charge cycle.

It is nice to think that it?s going to be a long time to reach 800 cycles.

Of course I understand there are other variables that will prevent the batteries from getting a full 800 cycles.
You are correct: 1 cycle is equal to a 100% charge cycle, and a 50% charge is equal to half a cycle. Lithium ion battery lifetime is determined by the total amount of power put through them, and for a 48v 14Ah battery, that means a total of 537,600 watt hours of energy. 24 watt hours per mile is considered typical for an average e-bike, so that translates into 22,400 miles. Avoid the obvious things like leaving it plugged into the charger overnight, and like mentioned you don't need to top it off unless you need maximum range. Sometimes I don't charge my battery for 2 or 3 trips, and I think Rad's guidance to charge every ride is to ensure a good user experience rather than enhance battery lifetime. 

Wow, lots going on in this thread! Most of the wobble in bikes is due to loose tolerances or improper assembly, but this bike has been apparently reassembled by pros. The most likely suspect is the front suspension fork, and I've seen this on other brands as well. A quick check is to hold the handlebars in the normal riding position with your feet on the ground, hold the front brake only, and rock the bike back and forth. A suspension fork with loose tolerances internally will look ok on the outside, but the sloppy movements on the inside will contribute to wheel or frame oscillation at certain speeds. If your front fork seems loose in this test, take it back to the shop to have them confirm, then they may recommend a replacement fork.

Regarding tire pressure, there's low pressure compared to normal tires, then there's low pressure that's far away from the recommended pressure for that specific tire. The K-Rad tire Kenda makes for a lot of Rad bikes is made for 30 PSI and it's printed right on the tire. 10 PSI is way out of range. 16 is the extreme minimum, and that should only be used in extenuating circumstances like ice. On bare pavement at 16 PSI, handling and safety will be affected. The minimum pressure I will use on pavement is 18 PSI, and my normal pressure is 20 to 22 PSI because of the horrendous sidewalk cracks and tree root issues where I often ride. It should be noted that K-Rad tires, even at 20 PSI, are stable up to 40mph, so I don't think there is a safety issue with Rad tires that would cause a crash... unless the tires are underinflated due to a leak, ignorance, or lack of maintenance. All bikes are unsafe if the tire pressure is too low.

The front brake issue does not apply to Rad bikes, and was a "try anything" attempt by the lawyers to place blame. When disc brakes were first went into use on bicycles, the quick release lever had enough travel to actually get caught in the brake rotor, causing serious crashes. This is impossible with Rad's design, and the most obvious way to demonstrate it is to bring a rad fork and wheel into the courtroom and have ANYONE replicate the lever/rotor interference issue. It just can't happen. I feel sorry for the loss of a child, but responsible parents would not have let them ride a powered vehicle they were not old enough for, especially if it was not in proper working order. One of my kids got a used pedal bike last week, and we spent an hour making adjustments and corrections before I let her get on it.

You may need a competent bike shop to drill out the bolt. Sometimes the factory assemblers overdo the torque, and it's too tight for the tools you get with the bike. My rear axle nuts were so tight that the wrench almost broke!

Yes, do the battery test to see if it's the battery or the bike, then contact Rad. Either the bike has a defect, or is programmed for weaker EU specifications.