One of these cables might do the job for you as well:  https://amzn.to/3snYHSA

My advice would be to install the controller/display upgrade (upgraded controllers are always a good idea) but don't even open the motor box before you test-ride the upgraded controller.  I bet you'll find it's all you need, because Rad stock motors can handle it fine.  I've had no problems running 1600 watts through my 2021 MiniST2 and Altema (here on the forum) tried and failed to burn out a stock Rad motor that he had sitting on the shelf with extended 1600+ watt testing.

Hopefully you'll be allowed to return the motor, because I think you'll want to.

Have fun, but go easy on an upgraded throttle at first; I was amazed at the difference.

Quote from: aad7122 on August 09, 2023, 11:36:19 AMOnly makes the noise at full throttle or when it's on PA5. Doesn't slip or have any loss of power just makes that awful noise. Also only makes the noise when on the bike under weight.

So it doesn't make the noise if you lift the rear wheel off the ground when hitting the throttle?  I was going to guess maybe check spokes for proper tightness, but if you can tear the wheel and motor down, you probably knew to consider that already, and that sound might take a LOT of loose spokes.

Best of luck tracking it down quickly!

Quote from: crorris on August 07, 2023, 11:36:08 AMIt looks like Lectric has dealers throughout the country who sell their bikes and even have rentals/test rides. It looks like they also have even more dealers who are certified to repair them.


https://lectricebikes.com/pages/fleet-rental
https://lectricebikes.com/pages/repair-service-network

I used the Search function for repair locations several times and came up with nothing at all.  Then I realized it ignores a Zip Code input; you have to type in a named location.  That's unusual, but FYI

Quote from: thormanson on August 06, 2023, 09:21:48 PM
From my non-techie viewpoint, I have to apologize and correct myself in stating that the two digital displays on my RAD City bike are LCD's, not LED's as I understand it.  So, basically black characters on a greyish background.  It is this configuration that I continue to have difficulty reading in bright sunlight, despite trying a variety of adjustments.  I certainly admire Handlebar's ingenuity in trying to provide shade for his displays with roofing felt, something I haven't tried.  It kind of astonishes me that with the degree of engineering that goes into these machines, the RAD folk can't figure out how to improve the illumination on the displays so that we users don't have to go to such extremes.

From the very first YouTube reviews of the new dual-display Rad models a year or two ago, I noticed right away that the smaller PAS display on the left was considerably dimmer than the larger main display, but it was mostly shrugged off if mentioned at all in the reviews. 

Is your City model relatively new?  If so, then it seems they still haven't addressed this disparity with the display manufacturer(s). 

As an aside just out of curiosity, did you have any issues adapting to using two displays that separate the data while riding?

Quote from: Mtolesen on August 04, 2023, 09:55:16 AMAlso, do you think you could give me the link to the Amazon page with the extender cable?

Here you go: https://amzn.to/47D5s2R

If you search for "ebike cables" or similar you can turn up other vendors and cables as well.  Hope you find one that works for you.

Quote from: Mike Dupre on August 03, 2023, 04:12:44 AM
I saw an ARE13 video on YouTube where the fellow used a BLANK (uncut) key and it worked. Of course I can't find it now but try this: https://youtu.be/BdsGaFB2rcc?t=36

That only works on the previous generation(s) batteries that sit on top completely exposed.  The semi-integrated batteries of the City 5 Plus are a totally different design and if they had any brains at all they didn't re-use the same lock mechanism that can be unlocked by a blank key.

I only carry a blank for my MiniST2, by the way, just to prove it works when warning other Rad owners about how ridiculously-easy it is to steal the battery and/or the entire bike unless the frame is locked up at minimum.

Here's my solution to the battery-theft problem, but would need to be adapted to different frames; the idea is to prevent sliding the battery up to remove it even if unlocked from the bike:

Quote from: Joshua_Bornot on August 01, 2023, 06:42:25 PM
Hello Everyone. This is my first time posting here. I have been trying to get a hold of Rad Power and have yet to get a response from anyone, I recently got in an accident and one of my cables broke. ( I think it goes to the display screen ). Anyway. I am trying to find out what part I need and how and where I can purchase this piece. I have attached, a picture of the broken part so if anyone can give me the part number, etc. it would be greatly appreciated.

Here are a couple of Amazon links to various e-bike cables that might help you out if you can't get one from Rad:

https://amzn.to/3snZ3IU
https://amzn.to/47HHALm

Also, if you could unscrew that connection and add a photo to the end connector so we can see how many pins and how they are arranged, somebody might be able to refer you.  Don't forget to at least estimate the cable length you'll need, I think these come in various sizes but I've never bought one.

Good luck!

Quote from: Ddaybc on July 31, 2023, 01:17:37 PMI see Ryan has a new video about adapting the Hollywood rack to carry a trike and an additional bike on the 1st tray.

I saw that video and the recovering mechanical engineer in my head was scared to death, thinking of that thing loaded up with a trike (much less another bike as well) out at the end of that stick, swinging up and down on a rutted road or hitting potholes.  Sooner or later, something's going to break and God help the person on the road behind it when it does.

Quote from: handlebar on July 30, 2023, 08:43:24 AMThe discerning reader ( such as myself ) immediately recalls January 9, 2009

That was a marvelous quantity of excellent points, all presented in a concise matter to inform and educate without inducing stupor.  Kudos.

Although it took extraordinary measures to achieve it, that's impressive range.

One question, though: why do you need a motor (instead of a regular bicycle), or was this just a test to see what she could do?

Quote from: RadPaco on July 27, 2023, 11:35:33 AM
hello again...ok...I will ask him for the serial number but I may not get it...hmm...The seller tells me he tried to get a key before but didnt work...hmm...I don't need the  trouble....and finding a competent locksmith is a good idea since I wouldnt want to leave the battery on the bike when I park it somewhere. That's my luck! I find a decent price ($1,500 Cdn) but I'm not so sure anymore.
thanks

You should always have the option of removing the battery, so a key is a must.  It's probably a legit transaction, but if you have any qualms, that website above will let you search regionally and/or by bike model, so if he's near you or if you know where he's located, try a regional search for any City 5 Plus models.  Note it will show all bikes that match your search terms in the database as I recall, so if it pops up that doesn't mean it's hot unless marked as such.  I think you can filter on "stolen" and "not stolen" as well.

If/when you get a bike, registering it on that site before you forget about it is highly recommended and costs nothing.  You can enter accessories as well, along with any serial numbers (such as the one for the battery in addition to the bike).

By the way, if I was selling a bike, I wouldn't have a problem giving a seriously-interested potential buyer the serial number, for exactly this reason.

Quote from: RadPaco on July 27, 2023, 09:32:14 AM
Hi there...sorry to bother you...I'm considering buying a used  RadCity 5 Plus bike but the seller has lost the key and I worry I will not be able to remove it or replace it ever! did you get a new key to work with yours? Thanks

The bikes come with TWO keys - he claims to have lost both?  Search here https://bikeindex.org/ with the bike's serial number to perhaps verify the seller is legit.  If so, his order should be on file with Rad and they can sell a replacement key.  Meanwhile, you should be able to have a competent locksmith pick that lock to remove the battery (even I could do it; these are not sophisticated locks) if you wish, and perhaps even cut you a replacement key.

I use this Harbor Freight dirtbike rack to haul my MiniST2; it's rated for far more than the 90-lb of my bike and comes with a ramp.  I use the walking-mode of the controller to walk it on/off the carrier with the ramp.  Needed a bit of fiddling to fit my bike perfectly, but it's surprisingly strong for the price (I got it two years ago for about $125 with a coupon) and requires a 2" hitch receiver.  When the receiver-clamps are tightened down, it's solid as a rock.

https://www.harborfreight.com/400-lb-receiver-mount-aluminum-motorcycle-carrier-62837.html

Photo below was taken while I was still figuring out the strap arrangement; later on I cut them to length so nothing can get caught during transport.

Good move, handlebar; I've added a couple reflectors to the back of my MiniST2 even though I almost never ride after dark.  Cheap insurance and can't hurt - I also set my Rad taillight to blinking and have added an on/off motion-sensitive blinking tail light to that.