Quote from: inoxa on May 07, 2024, 06:49:43 AMManuals from older RAD batteries say battery must be turned off to charge. 

Key ON was just to check the charge state with the battery's own LEDs, without being hooked up to a charger.

Green on the charger means that it thinks the battery is charged, and the charging cycle is complete.

What do the LEDs on the battery look like when you press the test button?

The key must be inserted and turned to the ON position.
In this photo Red/Grn/Grn/Grn means it's fully charged.

I'd at least get some primer or a close-enough match on the rusty parts just to slow down the rusting, while you're looking for a proper colour match.

Pity they don't do it like they did in the '50s and '60s for electric guitar paints. They just used off-the-shelf automotive paints. Haven't you always wanted a classic car with a matching Fender Stratocaster?



Then again, maybe that's exactly what Rad did.

Update...
Today I jumped on the bike to go to the hardware store to buy some fresh bird seed (as one does).
With nominally 4"x20" tires, at 20 psi, and a Sekrit Menu setting of 22" diameter, I got these results

• To the store: Bike odometer: 3.8 km / GPS app 3.78 (probably just a rounding error)
• Return trip: (a slightly longer route) Bike odometer 4.1 km / GPS app 4.1

I reset them before returning home because I was walking around in the store with my phone, which would introduce error in a comparison.

So, I'm sticking with the 22" setting. 

What are you using to measure the temperature?

Quote from: Naranja_CT5+ on April 28, 2024, 10:01:06 AM... Therefore the border services may require a proof that you leave Canada with all your equipment. ...

Whose border services? At what point would the Canadians have the opportunity to check that you took it back out when you left Canada? Is there some sort of shared database in which the US border service checks off that you brought the bike back in?
Even so, I don't think Canadian border service would care what you left Canada with, and I didn't think they would even stop you on the way out. (It's been a decades since I've crossed the border.)

It gets confusing when they talk about "importing" stuff, as if you were planning to buy it from outside Canada and keep it in Canada permanently. The most important thing may be not so much importing, but operating it in Canada. For instance, you may not import used mattresses into Canada, but clearly you are allowed to own and use them in Canada.

Have a look at Appendix C in https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d19/d19-12-1-eng.html , maybe there are some hints there. They talk about "Temporary Vehicle Imports", but they don't say much about actually operating them in Canada.

QuoteVehicles may be admitted into Canada without having to comply with TC's import requirements when used exclusively by a person entering Canada as a visitor for a period not exceeding 12 months, or temporary residents such as students studying at a learning institution for the duration of their studies in Canada, or individuals with valid work permits/authorizations for employment for a period not exceeding 36 months.

TLDR. Exactly which of "[Transport Canada's] import requirements" they mean, I have no clue.

I'd phone ahead to somebody official in the province you plan to visit (because each province has slightly different regulations for ebikes), to get chapter & verse, and don't accept an answer with the word "probably" in it.

That's a lot of orange, even on the mirrors and headlight. Looks nice.
I just realized that "naranja" means "orange". That's probably not a coincidence, right?

Does it still have that New Bike Smell?

QuoteI am disappointed to find that I may not be able to use the front basket because it is obstructing the wiring harness. I have to find a way to route it through the basket and the only way I can think of doing that is to remove everything from the handlebars.

Really? All of the baskets look to be fairly open in terms of space between the bars.
Or do you mean removing everything only for as long as it takes to reroute them through the basket bars?

I ended up buying the LCD Display upgrade for my RadExpand 5. I forget what wheel diameter it was set up for out of the box, but it was wrong.

I had changed it to the nominal 20", even though a 20" is what it measures about halfway between the rim and the tread. The axle to floor radius with nobody sitting on it is close to 11", which comes to approximately 22" diameter.

Today I found a straight level stretch of road, and when the GPS-based speedometer app was reporting 30 kph, the bike's display was showing between 27.2 to 28 kph. It kept changing, so it was hard to get a steady reading. The trip distance on the app was 1.02 km, versus 0.9 km on the bike display.

I stopped and changed the setting in the menu, from 20" to 22". Not surprisingly, the speedometer then indicated 36.7(ish) when the GPS speedometer app indicated 36 kph. I didn't want to reset the trip distance at that time, because reasons.
Next time, I'll compare the trip distances over, say, 10 km and see how close they are to each other.

At any rate, it appears that the most accurate speedometer & odometer setting is to have it agree with the measured axle height x 2.

This would make far more sense if you could dial in an arbitrary number for the diameter, say, to the nearest centimetre. As it is, there are only a limited number of diameters to choose from in the menu.

Probably not an issue. It might depend on where you're going, like if people in the area have recently been complaining about wild-eyed youths hopped-up on goofballs, screaming along multi-use paths on Surrons and the like.


In my area, a little town of 6,099 souls surrounded by farms, I've never heard of anybody's ebike being checked for Class 2 compliance.

But if you got involved in an accident and attention is then directed to the ebike, it might get dicey. I really have no idea.

Quote from: BarryR on April 27, 2024, 03:24:29 PM... and when applying throttle the display shows wattage being applied to the motor which in itself is kind of strange because the motor isn't running. ...

That is the strangest thing.
Otherwise, I would've suggested checking out the adjustment of the motor cut-off switch built into the right brake lever. It's in the vicinity of the throttle, and if the cut-off switch is just on the threshold of switching off, it may be jostled by twisting the throttle.

A voltage can be applied to a motor, but you can't really "apply wattage" to the motor.
Wattage is a measure of Power, and Power = Voltage x Current

For a watt meter to work, some current has to be going through something and then multiplied by the voltage to get power in watts, unlike with a volt meter which can measure voltage across an open circuit.

In this case, it may be that the current is passing through something other than the motor, but which the controller assumes is the motor. Some kind of short circuit in the wiring perhaps, or some path through the motor that does not result in it turning.

With a dog that size, I think you're going about it completely backwards.
This is what you should get:

The dog would probably enjoy it more too, once in a while.

Quote from: Muskie1 on September 23, 2022, 10:46:57 AMThe problem with a trailer is any axle mount. The warranty is voided.

I don't see why they don't make more of them with hitches to the centre of the rear rack. Then you could make tighter turns in both directions.

Used e-bike without the charger?

How confident are you that it was not stolen? A charger is the one part a bike thief would not have gotten.

There are two RadRover 6 plus listed as stolen at https://project529.com/garage

Quote from: hondo2160 on April 20, 2024, 03:34:06 PMThis is a bummer. A replacement unit is $80. I guess cable ties will do for now.

Yup.
There was a popular novel in the '70s, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance by Robert Persig. Part of it is the story of a road trip with his buddy.
His buddy had this deluxe BMW touring bike and was complaining about how one of the brake handles or something was slipping, and it was so far to the next BMW authorized service centre. The author offered to fix it by cutting a shim from a soda can and installing it. The very idea of it horrified his buddy because it wasn't an Official BMW Brass Shim. He preferred to put up with the slipping for the duration.

After skimming through the assembly video, it doesn't appear that you can.
You could adjust the angle but that's about it.

I suppose you could replace theme with BMX-style handlebars (of appropriate diameter), which come in a range of heights ...

... but then you could run into the problem of straining the cables and wiring, or them not being able to reach the handlebar and all, especially when turning.

Or maybe keep the stock handlebar and get an extension for it like this sort of thing:



Again there's still the issue of the cables and wiring being long enough.