Quote from: tacomanatx on June 07, 2022, 08:18:23 AM
Are you talking stem cap?  They are all pretty standard now days and a simple hex key swaps them out.
https://kustomcaps.com/

Doubt it, Described as " faceplate" makes it sound exactly like the front of the stem not the bearing preload cap.

Those are going to bend down a bit but it shouldn't matter since the bags will then sit flush with the sides of the bike. The black plastic spacers may crack over time.

1st is the seat....Every bike needs a Brooks saddle. Beauty, elegance, durability and comfort.

Its a machine built wheel after all, it may not have been brought to full tension like the other 500 wheel before it etc. You have most likly corrected the problem as long as the dishing didn't suffer. If spokes get loose again use NON permanent Loctite and they will stop from vibrating loose.

The rear wheel is a different beast all together since it will have increased dishing and a wider variation of drive and non-drive side spoke tension.

Sounds about right, I would go around the wheel 1/2 turn. Those universal spoke wrenches are a jack of all trades yet master of none really. Better than nothing but instead I had a spare 14g spoke wrench and widened it with a small jewelers file till it was perfect for 12g Rad spoke nipples.

Weird. If it does work can someone answer why it is when Rad says it wont?

Quote from: tacomanatx on June 02, 2022, 06:44:01 AM
I need to go the other way w/ my RadRunner, the single speed set up is a bit aggressive for the hills in my hood.

No kidding. I geared down to 50t in front and 17 in the back. Pretty significant reduction.

Quote from: Altema on June 01, 2022, 04:48:13 PM
By "shredded", they probably mean stripped or galled with aluminum stuck in the screw threads. I've had that happen with stainless steel screws in aluminum holes.

Could be and I wouldn't be surprised at all. The 1st thing I did was notice there wasn't grease on any easily removed bolt when I checked for grease.. So I took everything apart. Rad doesn't grease anything! Even the freewheel threads where dry!!Major No No. There's a lot of Rads out there just galling and seizing away as we type.

Be happy you have the power cable on the non-drive side. I've never understood why it was thought to be a good idea to put it on the side you need to take off and service the freewheel. I was pleasantly surprised when my RR showed up with this new orientation. Untill then I had resigned myself to having to just deal with that stupidity since all ebikes seemed to carry on that error. But HURRAH Rad did something right and I hope others follow.

You may have a sticky pawl in there that doesn't engage 100% of the time. A hammer hardly ever works and usually ends up damaging the splines that the real removal tool needs to take it off leaving you in tears.     Think of the power your legs can generate, thats what is tightening the freewheel to the hub all the time. It gets super tight from the moment you start pedaling etc.

I do see ACS on Amazon Claws and PAWS? (must be a new moniker.) DONT GET "SOUTHPAW" those are only for left side drive.

Altema,

So the Bolton controller is modified sine wave and the Rad is pure sine wave? If so I would defiantly notice, that would drive me nuts. Pure sine is so nice. Modified sine is audibly chunky.

Bolts dont just "shred" Id be curious what they mean by that. Can a fender be installed at all now? Are the threads on the fork cross threaded or ruined in some way etc etc.

I think the rear rack can be mounted wide like pictured or long (turned 90degres.)

Opening a freewheel can be done but its not an easy job. Special tools are required. The bearing retainer is reverse threaded and house about 70 tiny bearings and the pawls that engage when pedaled and disengage when coasting. Its also alot easier if you have a freewheel tool to take it off the hub and do the work. Cleaning, re-lubing etc. etc.

That being said the price of a new freewheel is anywhere from 15 bucks for amazon trash that may never come off again (seriously, some cheap freewheels do not have the necessary design that allows for future removal) or $130 for top of the line White Industries. I recommend ACS Claws since they have served the BMX industry for decades and are around $30 bucks.

Also, if you get a new one make sure to get the one with the right size teeth. They come in two widths depending on which chain your running.

Interesting, My RR has a 130mm bolt circle diameter. I would have used a crank puller to make the job easier but maybe you didnt want to buy one. ( ouch my knees)

I think that chain will be two short now for the low gears and a new one may not be long enough with a 60T up front and a 34T in back. You may have to mate two together with a chain tool.

nice work around!

Are you sure the wire bead of the tire was fully seated on the rim as you were inflating so it didn't creep at full PSI?