Sounds like it could be low tire pressure. Did you top them off after assembly?

There is also a chance the fork is  backwards which would lead to heavy steering and over correction etc. Make sure the disc rotor and the fork mounted caliper are on the same side as the rear wheel. (Left side)

Picked up this Husky 18mm stubby for my custom tool kit. I like it better than the wrench that comes with the factory kit. 

On close ups of the 20" rim cross section where the nipples meet the spokes it looks like there is a new "shelfed" design not smooth and convex from sidewall to sidewall like the MiniST, RR and RRPlus. Anyone have a better picture than Rads website offers?

I have three. Two are lightly used , less than 50 miles. The other is brand new un-used.

Shipping will probably be 30 bucks based on size and weight. I also have the fat inner-tubes. Email is open or discuss here.

I'm in Oregon.

Da rear.

Front wheel.

Today I put on some CST Big Boat tires to replace the Kenda K-Rads.

I ride mostly on pavement and the Kendal's are a total drag and really loud. The size difference isn't that significant but the street pattern and slightly narrowed profile makes it a total winner on the road. I went on a 3 mile gravel loop today as well and the difference is minimal.

I only think the Kendas are worth it if your trips are always on dirt or sand. Otherwise I'd say they are mostly for looks and to alert pedestrians of your approach from 20 yards away.

The acceleration is also faster. The CST's are noticeably lighter.

You will find a lot of thoughts in the General Discussion forum. 2 pages now. Enjoy.

Use a good and liberal amount of quality grease.

Stock freewheel removed. No grease.

I took off the stock 16 tooth freewheel and replaced it with a 17t for a lower gear ratio and to my horror the threads were completely dry. Ouch!

For those that don't know this is a high torque area and if no grease is used after time, dirt and rain etc when you go to remove the gear it can take the threads off right with it!

Scary. So anyway if you got the tools and the time you should pull the freewheel (7spd or 1spd) and check.

By the way there was no grease on the bolted axle or the torque washer retainer screw.

Here is a side by side of the old flawed chain idler (left) and the new one on the right.

The old one didn't wrap the chain enough and led to chain skip. The new one addressed this flaw.

I did have to surf through customer service email to get it for awhile. Seems their 1st response is to tell me to adjust the deraileur. Welp, there is no deraileur of course and this flawed idler is a known problem. 3 email replies later and someone actually read my request and granted it.

What will Runner do that the Mini won't? Besides a passenger.

The bolt pattern on my RRunner is 130mm. I think it's the same on a few others but not sure since I don't own them. I swapped out my 52t for a 48t. Lots of hills here as well.

Quote from: RadBoleyRad on February 01, 2022, 02:07:45 PM
I have a Rad  Mini v4 and my wife has the Mini ST and would like to replace the tires.Has anyone replaced the stock CST city tires with the knobbier Kenda K1167 ? My first choice would be the K-RAD 20x4 tire but supply issues seem never ending.I would welcome any other suggestions.

Interestingly I am putting CST's on my RR1 and will have 2 barley used K-Rads and 1 brand new K-Rad for a total of 3 to let go of soon. Let me know if your interested.