Your best bet for the most accurate measurement to enter into the display is to measure the outside diameter of your tire. Then enter that measurement or the closes match.

Remember that we are dealing with entry-level bikes using the cheapest available parts. The displays will never be GPS accurate.

The brakes on an e-bike will need frequent maintenance to keep them working properly. An e-bike is heavier and faster than a standard bike and thus causes the brake system to wear faster. It is not uncommon to have to adjust your brakes every couple of hundred miles or so, especially on a newer bike, depending on how and where you ride.

You should inspect your brake system at least every 50-100 miles and adjust them as needed.

Here are some Rad guides about Brakes:

Recommended Tools for Maintenance and Repair
https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360048564314-Recommended-Tools-for-Maintenance-and-Repair?source=search&auth_token=eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJhY2NvdW50X2lkIjo3NjMzMDEsInVzZXJfaWQiOjQxNDMyMDQyMjg1MywidGlja2V0X2lkIjoxMDc0NDg0LCJjaGFubmVsX2lkIjo2MywidHlwZSI6IlNFQVJDSCIsImV4cCI6MTYzODU0OTY2OX0.suRbDadBVbW4UR0_3ZPm6wuRDSmZdQ1bMW3bgx3heAM

Brake Adjustment Guide
https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004786874-Brake-Adjustment-Guide?source=search&auth_token=eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJhY2NvdW50X2lkIjo3NjMzMDEsInVzZXJfaWQiOjE5MDAxMzk0NDA0ODQsInRpY2tldF9pZCI6MTIxNjc1OCwiY2hhbm5lbF9pZCI6NjMsInR5cGUiOiJTRUFSQ0giLCJleHAiOjE2NDY1MjEyMjV9.jIVPxyJik7z_VBo8Y_NaCCwyTk80K2X8shoNRfLmTMQ

Loose Brakes Adjustment Guide
https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360035478933-Loose-Brakes-Adjustment-Guide?source=search&auth_token=eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJhY2NvdW50X2lkIjo3NjMzMDEsInVzZXJfaWQiOjE5MDAxMzk0NDA0ODQsInRpY2tldF9pZCI6MTIxNjc1OCwiY2hhbm5lbF9pZCI6NjMsInR5cGUiOiJTRUFSQ0giLCJleHAiOjE2NDY1MjEyMjV9.jIVPxyJik7z_VBo8Y_NaCCwyTk80K2X8shoNRfLmTMQ

Brake Pad Replacement Guide
https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002088973-Brake-Pad-Replacement-Guide?source=search&auth_token=eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJhY2NvdW50X2lkIjo3NjMzMDEsInVzZXJfaWQiOjE5MDAxMzk0NDA0ODQsInRpY2tldF9pZCI6MTIxNjc1OCwiY2hhbm5lbF9pZCI6NjMsInR5cGUiOiJTRUFSQ0giLCJleHAiOjE2NDY1MjEyMjV9.jIVPxyJik7z_VBo8Y_NaCCwyTk80K2X8shoNRfLmTMQ


I hope that this helps a bit.

I ordered a set from Rad late last week. they did not have the Torque washers by themselves in stock, but they did have them as part of the RadCity 5 Axle Hardware kit. it was worth the little bit extra I paid since I also got all the mounting bolts too, and they fit my RadRunner v1.

Error 31 means the remote's buttons are being mashed. I had this on my rover 6+ when I got it. Rad suggested I pop the cover off and then try to snap it back in place, being careful to align the buttons. This worked for me and I have not had a problem since.

I just found this video walk-through on the Semi-integrated battery fuse replacement. Very well done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q287-kQNDsM&ab_channel=2feetNOsox

I had the same issue on one of my bikes. Rad had me disconnect the headlight, then turn on the bike and see if the taillight came on. it did in my case. they sent out a new headlight and it has worked ever since.

Currently, there are no plug-and-play options for the Rover 6+ and City 5+. But I am hopeful for the future.

For now, at least you would have to change out most if not all the electrical components and wiring to achieve what you are looking to do.

Again, I'm hopeful for the future...

Rad recommends 20-30psi. I run mine at 28psi for mostly road and well-groomed trails.

Quote from: NaturallyRC on March 20, 2022, 04:52:25 AM
The reason is so you don't have to stop and switch packs. There's no significant performance upgrade or operational difference that I can think of, apart from running at all five bars three times longer time before seeing a voltage drop, but whether your legs even notice that is a topic for another day. 

Quote from: ericwn on March 20, 2022, 04:34:39 AM
So is the reason for this setup mostly range extension?

Besides not having to stop and switch batteries there is a significant performance increase with this setup. You are also putting less stress on the batteries since the three are now sharing the workload.

Once I installed the voltage meter, and when running just the stock battery, I was seeing an 8-9 volt drop when accelerating and when at 750w. That is a lot of power loss that equates to poorer performance when under load. With the three batteries, I am seeing only a 1.5 volt drop under the same loads.

Granted this does not affect the top end speed at all, still capped at 20mph, But the low end, hill climbing ability, has seen the biggest improvement. (I know the speed can be increased a bit, but for me, 20mph is plenty fast enough.)

Where I am at there is a 2.5 mile long 12-15% grade hill going into town. Before I modified my bike I would have to be in PAS 5 and gear 3-4, or lower,  to make it up that hill with work at around 10-13mph. Now in PAS 4, it will easily top out at 20mph on the same hill for the entire distance.

Quote from: JimInPT on March 19, 2022, 11:36:14 AM

Quote from: Si1Dia on March 19, 2022, 11:31:54 AMI had to do some creative splicing and voided my warranty, I'm sure, but this bike runs like a beast.

I'll bet.  And I agree your warranty is poofed, but great job on a very new model.

Rad has already confirmed my voided warranty. but that's okay, this is just a very fun toy for the most part. The best part is though, two replacement parts, under $100, and it is back to stock, once the extras are also removed.

I have modified my Rover 6+ so I can run 3 batteries in parallel.

I use the DATEx3 from BGB: https://biggamebikes.com/product/datex2-parallel-battery-adapter , to connect the three batteries safely.

I got two standard Rad battery trays from eBay, and a set of dead Standard batteries that I refurbished. ( I got lucky with both batteries, they had bad solder connections )

I had to do some creative splicing and voided my warranty, I'm sure, but this bike runs like a beast.

The pictures show the bike with the 2 battery Area 13 Parallel connector: https://boltonebikes.com/collections/electrical-accessories/products/dual-battery-parallel-connector. This is a great connector, but I have since moved it to my wife's bike.

With the 3 batteries in Parallel, I have an average voltage drop of 1.5 volts at 750w. This equals excellent hill-climbing capabilities.

As for range? When mostly in PAS 5, I have pushed it to 65 miles. This left me with 47v left on the battery, down from my 54.3v starting point. I have not stressed it to empty yet.

Almost forgot. I also added one of these voltage meters in line with the headlight. I did this so I could read full bike voltage, and so I could turn it off/on id I wanted to by turning off/on the headlight.
https://amzn.to/3xUGlsX

In my opinion, you really cannot compare the two bikes and expect them to be the same. Two different companies, electronics, motors, and settings. So any comparison is not apples to apples so to speak.

That said, I have a Rover 6+, and where I am at there is a 2.5 mile long 12-15% grade hill going into town. Before I modified my bike I would have to be in PAS 5 and gear 3-4 to make it up that hill with work at around 10-13mph.

Rad Also started in the Rover Owner's manual on page 22, "Do not climb hills steeper than 15% in grade." But I think this is stated mostly to help extend battery life.

I would recommend starting off in PAS 2 or 3 and gear 3 to start with until you get used to the bike and how it runs, then adjust as you see fit.

If both of the displays light up and the motor/PAS do not work, I would typically go to the error 25 checks first. I have heard that on the new bike the error code doesn't always come up but the symptoms still do.

However, it sounds like you have already done the error 25 checks. disconnecting the brake levers and taillight and motor connections to see if that makes the motor go again.

The next thing that I can think of would be the controller and or the wire harness may need to be replaced. Though the hard part sounds like getting parts shipped to you from Rad since it sounds like they do not ship to your state.

Still very weird that the working bikes when put away then both having the same issue when brought out of storage.....

Looking at the product page it says that the horn is USB rechargeable. so it should be as easy as just attaching it to the bike where ever you can find room. V

ery kewl product by the way. thank you for pointing it out.

I would first check and clean the freewheel. It sounds like the pawl in the freewheel is stuck. if this doesn't help you may consider contacting Rad for a new freewheel. Don't forget to get a freewheel removal tool from Rad as well.