Quote from: rory on November 02, 2022, 09:03:57 AM
Oh snap that looks great. Are you just soldering the wire ends to the fuse pad on the board and then running this out through the plastic battery case? I'd love to see the inside and how you ran the line out. My only concern would be keeping those 12AWG wires attached to the board, how would one go about securing them so they don't become detached with any moving around and jostling.

Quote from: Si1Dia on November 02, 2022, 07:55:14 AM

Quote from: crorris on November 02, 2022, 07:12:38 AM
I wonder if you could solder something like this on instead and route it externally in case it blows again?


https://amzn.to/3t6zxEP

do you mean like this?

I took the old fuse apart and soldered the wires to the posts then inserted them into the old fuse holder. this way I could easily reverse my decision later if I wanted to. I then secured the wires with hot glue to the end of the battery before running it out the hole I cut into the end cap. the only problem with this was it would no longer fit into the battery tray on my HS version of the rover 6+. it worked fine on my wife's ST version though since it has a lot more clearance to go in.

Quote from: crorris on November 02, 2022, 07:12:38 AM
I wonder if you could solder something like this on instead and route it externally in case it blows again?


https://amzn.to/3t6zxEP

do you mean like this?

You can either grow a few inches... lol, or move the basket back a bit.

Here is a video on how to move the basket.
https://youtu.be/XsImYrGWW_c

These are the ones I use out of that kit:

10, 12, and 14 are the ones you would want to buy for the NUTT brakes.: https://www.parktool.com/en-us/category/parts?query=BKM-1

It seems that like many other companies, that Rad is moving away from paper instructions and going to online instructions and manuals.

The instructions for the upgrade LCD display are on the Rad Product web page for the display. Here is the direct link: https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360042341474-LCD-Display-Upgrade-Installation-Guide

I hope that this helps.

When I asked Rad about this a while ago, they did their best to suggest I have a bike shop do this. It is not covered by warranty and Rad has no guides on this.
They finally gave me the bleed kit they use in their shops so I could buy it.
https://amzn.to/3D1Lv8B

This was a bit pricy but they said if I wanted to do it myself I should get the good kit since I would be doing this a few times a year or more.

Here is the SHIMANO Brake Fluid they also said I needed.
https://amzn.to/3TwYGnh

After I got all this and followed YouTube videos, I still messed it up and had to have a bike shop fix it for me. They also show me how to do the bleed and I have been successful ever since.

Not at this point in time, but keep an eye on Big Game Bikes. they say they are working on it.

Quote from: joeliniowa on September 19, 2022, 08:38:19 AM

Quote from: Si1Dia on September 14, 2022, 05:09:46 PM
I have the DateX3 on my Rover 6+ with the stock battery and 2 rad external batteries on the rear rack. I went from a 9-12v of voltage sag to 1.5v voltage sag with this setup. this is now a hill-climbing beast. And I can run the bike off of any one of the battery locations or combination of them.

Did RAD send you mounts?  I talked to someone there one day & they were NASTY and said they only would sell the battery, not the bracket! Where did you get your X3?

I've found a couple templates to 3D Print on Thingiverse.  I added some extra's to my printer.  Now I have to self edit the configurations for it.  Ahh, ain't IT great?   

Thanks,  JLH

I was able to order the mounts from Rad with no problems. But I do have Rad bikes that could use them on my account.

If you read the Rad warranty statement and the Terms of Service, it does not say anything about covering anything but factory defects in some of the parts of the bike. nothing anywhere about covering the labor to install these parts. That said Rad has a great guide on removing and replacing the rear wheel assembly. This is the same exact process you will have to go through to start to fix a flat on the rear wheel. It is a good idea to learn how to do this so that when it does happen you are ready how to fix it.

I have the DateX3 on my Rover 6+ with the stock battery and 2 rad external batteries on the rear rack. I went from a 9-12v of voltage sag to 1.5v voltage sag with this setup. this is now a hill-climbing beast. And I can run the bike off of any one of the battery locations or combination of them.

LOVE IT !!!!!!

try cleaning the rotor, sanding the rotor and brake pads, bedding, and trying it again. this video is great to govern the process of doing this.:

https://youtu.be/qsZPUyFZaxQ

Instructions are on the product page for the Front Rack. Most companies are going to online instructions. The 6+ does not need the brake line moved. this is only for cable brakes and only if the cables bind too much after installation.

Quote from: Tree on August 02, 2022, 09:36:45 AM


I haven't read the warranty, but are the information questions asked actually relevant to the warranty?

I think these are the pertinent parts of the warranty applicable to this. Or at least that is how I would read it.

Thank you.

This is good to know ahead of time in case something happens.