Has anyone bought insurance for a bicycle and then have the bike stolen, and then successfully gotten money from insurance?

How much did you get?  And was the trouble of getting insurance and getting reimbursed worth it?  What did you have to do to get the money - did you have to have a police report?  Was a sign of forced entry needed?

Have you been denied insurance money after the bike is stolen?

Thanks for sharing.

Insurance companies are not in the business of losing money. So they did some calculations and decided it is a good risk and sell you the insurance.  It means that you are usually ahead if you don't buy the insurance and can afford to replace it yourself if lost.  Otherwise, you end up buying insurance for too many things (TV, your bicycle, your fridge, etc.). It adds up.

The bike is expensive for me. If I lose it, it would take some time before I can buy another one. But I figure if I lose my bike, I can save up to buy another one, and considering the risk, I should be ahead because the insurance is not in the business to lose money.

You need to read the fine print to see if you need to file a police report before you can recover money from insurance. Then decide if you are willing to spend the time to do so. Is the police coming to you or do you have to take the time to go to a police station to file a report. How much is a day off work worth to you?  If you lose your bike on a campus, is a campus police report good enough or do you need a town police report?

Also, if your deductible is high - then you can probably only recover if your bike goes missing.  Will you recover if there is no evidence of force?

It is not like once you have insurance you can bike around without locking your bike and leaving the keys in - I wish it was that simple. So you have to find out what duty you have (lock bike, police report, etc.) before you get reimbursed. I can see if you have house/car insurance costing a lot and you are a long-time good customer then they may be more lenient when reimbursing your bike. But if you just buy bike insurance and your bike mysteriously disappears without any sign of force that they may be more careful.

I usually try to self-insure - meaning not buy any insurance except for stuff that I can't afford to replace easily like a car or a house.

Maybe we should start another thread - how many people actually received an insurance payout after a bike is stolen and do they feel that the amount received was adequate considering the time and effort and money involved in getting insurance?

It takes some time for the chemistry to balance out as others have said. Hysteresis.  The voltage is measured right at the cathode and anode. But there is maybe 1 mm at least of chemicals (electrolytes) on top of the cathode and anode. You discharge the chemicals right at the cathode and anode and you measure a voltage there.  In reality there is probably a voltage gradient. It takes a bit of time for the chemicals to equilibrate. 

Also, the chemical reactions and side reactions are complicated and not as simple as they explained it - that is why batteries have a range of voltages from fully charged to partially charged to discharged completely beyond rechargeable.

You would probably get a better picture if you can measure the voltage across the whole length width and depth of the chemicals (electrolytes, anode, cathode) and then average or integrate the results. The problem with the current voltage meter is that, due to cost constraints which are reasonable, you are only taking a point source.

If you wait 5 to 10 minutes, don't use the battery, give everything a chance to settle, that would probably give you the best measurement.  But somebody with some experience could probably make an educated guess, integrating in their mind how hard the battery has been working and basing on their experience, and the guess would probably come pretty close.  For example, if I were climbing a hill hard on the throttle for a while, when I get to the top and ride slow, the meter will probably go up one bar.  It probably won't go up 2 bars.  And if I ride hard like that, I can assume I am not going to get the total range (in distance) from that battery. Things work well enough at least for me.

Don't trust your life to any product. Don't go anywhere where you cannot walk back to safety. For example, I would not bike 10 miles into Death Valley in the summer and bike out.  If the bike breaks, I will be close to dying.  I would not drive in the desert in the summer for the same reason - any breakdown is an instant emergency.

I trust the bike will let me down.  It is not meant to get you out of a dangerous situation (like being 10 miles in a desert).

Of course, riding on the neighborhood, neighborhood parks, anywhere you can get an uber or taxi, paved roads, things like that, it is mostly all fine.  The best thing is to bring a buddy.

I think all the bikes are like that. That's why I bought Rad - because it was cheap and if the controller breaks, I can get a third-party controller (was it Bolton or something like that).  I like Rad but my bike is a frame with attached components - nothing is especially made for my rad mini st2.  That is good when it comes time to replace things. There is not much custom about it except for the frame.

I worry that if I get a top of the line say Trek or Cannondale ebike and some circuit board breaks, it would cost a lot to fix and the parts would not be available in a few years.

Seems like bikes are good for 5-10 years - depending on how hard you ride. Then, if something breaks, you have to try to fix it with 3rd party parts or buy a new one.  It is too bad things are like that. It is a rapidly changing technology.

Hobbies are not like the old days where you buy one good thing (like a good frame and Campy components) and it last forever.

I think you can buy a cheap one mail order.  I have a pedal wrench from Park.

It is one of those luxury items you think you don't need. But then it is nice to have.  I have a few pedals and I can switch.

I think in the U.S., a coupon is not stackable and only one coupon can be used per product.  There is usually some fine print, if not on the coupon it would be in a webpage referred to by the coupon.  Or there can be a blanket policy for the store that only one coupon can be used.

Otherwise, you can just use multiple coupons/discounts on the same product.  A 10% off coupon will allow you to buy at 90%.  Use 2 coupons and the price will go to 81%.  And so on, and so on. If you use enough, the product can go down to $1. So it is clear there is no stacking the same coupon, or use more than one of the same coupon.

Or if you use a $5 off coupon on a $1 item, the store ends up owing you $4.

To avoid these scenarios, there is usually some legal fine print somewhere. I am also thinking there may be some law. Otherwise, one misprint and a company will go out of business and lots of people will be out of a job. I am not talking about the legality of any of this - you have to consult a lawyer.

However, sometimes a promotional campaign may allow stacking - it is the rare exception. But you can ask.

Quote from: rsghowellnj on December 27, 2022, 08:32:42 PM
@Eric7 - Thank you VERY VERY VERY much for taking the time to show me with a photo.  This really helps me to understand now.  I really appreciate the effort!

You are welcome. I am glad to be of service. My thought is that when locking the bike, I make it so a thief would either have to cut the frame, cut the lock, or cut the bicycle stand before it can be tossed in the back of an SUV, van, or pickup. 

I wish you happy and safe riding.

Dear Rsghowellnj,

I enclosed a photo as you requested.

As you can see, the seat stay of my bike is attached to the red vertical broomstick (but substitute any bike rack you have in the real world) by a U lock. There is also a cable locked to the bike lock. The cable loops through the front wheel, trailer, and whatever else you want to secure. In this instance, I was lazy and did not loop it through anything - it is there just to show you.

Even if my bike is not locked to anything solid, anyone who steals my bike will have a big heavy lock hanging off the side, interfering with the proper spinning of the wheel. Of course, the thief can use a tool (e.g., portable electric grinder) to break the lock but I figure they would choose an easier target. With generous return features of modern times, any lock can be broken and the tool can be fully refunded. People with good credit like that would, hopefully, not be in a habit of stealing things.

Nowadays, I just don't go anywhere unsafe - like a college or university.  I just use the cable with a padlock.

I am a big bike advocate and spent 5.5 years of my life without a car. But, sometimes, it is just easier to drive.

I got the Rad because I accurately predicted that I would be an occasional rider. For my budget, I could not see spending too much.  With the new prices, I don't think it would fit my budget anymore.

I use a Kryptonite forgetabout it lock. I lock it to the seat stay.  When you look at the bike, it is all screwed together so if someone stole it, eventually they can loosen the frame and remove the lock. The only exception is the chain stay or the seat stay.  So, if now someone stole my bike, they will have to cut something to remove the lock.  I also use a cable that I hook to the lock.

In the end, I just decided to not carry the lock and only go somewhere where I feel safe.  I use a cheap lock with a cable.  It is too heavy and too much trouble to use the Kryptonite forgetaboutit lock.

I was visiting colleges this summer for my kid. Every bike I see had a big U lock.  Just sharing.  So I guess if you are on a campus, you need a big lock.

First of all, congratulations on a cool dog.

I think your dog just don't like trailers.

I use a Burley Bee from 20 years ago for children that I gutted and put in a 65 pound English Bulldog 8 years old. U.S. made.  The dog is fine with 20 mile rides.  Sometimes we jump the curb on the way to the supermarket to take the safest route. There is no suspension but the tires, the wheel and the fabric and a pillow makes it enjoyable for the dog. She does not whine a bit. Sometimes she sits on the groceries or share space with the groceries. My daughter shared the space with the groceries when she was young - it fits 2 babies and I use one baby space for groceries. The fabric gets wet in the rain and it is not rainproof - I think they are afraid of liability if a baby suffocates in the trailer because the trailer is one giant waterproof plastic bag.  Some vents are always open.

I don't think it is the trailer because most dogs who are not old are tough. The trailer may be badly made but it is not the trailer causing your dog to dislike it.

You have a great breed. Tough as nail.  Hard as brick. Can run faster than your bike. The reason she doesn't like it is because she does not like it.  Yes, the cart may be badly made - but a Belgian Malinois should not be bothered by a little discomfort and noise that an English Bulldog and many other breeds can handle. A little dirt and debris shouldn't bother the 35 mph runner your Belgian Malinois is.  It does not bother my dog who likes ventilation and don't like heating up. She does not even mind some dirt and water kicked up by the rear wheel in her face which will eventually happen if you ride enough. You are in the front with no protection at all.  Until the dog changes her attitude, there is nothing you can do. I am not saying the dog is wrong. Maybe she don't like the whole idea. Maybe she just want to run.

I think the answer is that people buy bikes based on performance and price, and thief deterrence does not even enter into the equation. Therefore, any manufacturer who spends money on thief deterrence will have less competitive bikes, less profits, and may even go out of business.

People sue companies because the tags can be used for stalking and the same would apply to a bike. If the advertised tags are not working, the consumer can request a refund of the whole bike. There is no appreciation for putting a tracker on a bike and a company may even be sued for violating privacy by tracking their users. And then there would be the issue of how come only Apple or only Androids are supported? Or why someone without a phone has to buy it?

It would be nothing but trouble. The money can be better spent on a fancy headlight, a bigger battery, or hydraulic brakes.

Regardless of what the manufacturer says, the fluid will surely slowly harden over its lifetime and if you allow the tire to sit, I can't see how it would not pool and solidify. I suggest using the fluid in the beginning of the riding season and do some riding - presumably, that is a fun activity and not a chore.  I think over a 10 mile ride, the fluid should be well distributed.

Will it pool over the winter? Possibly.  There is not much you can do.  But it is an electric bike and you are not racing so that should be OK. in the spring you will be riding again and distributing it again even if it gets viscous a bit it should be OK. The slime only last 2 years so it should be OK.  At the end of 3-4 years, just replace the tire and tube.  It is the safest to keep the tire and tube fresh and that's about the life of a tire for me.

I don't have experience riding a trike but here is an interesting point or question.

The left wheel freewheels.  The right wheel is on a coaster brake.  So say a person is going downhill and is uneducated in the workings of this trike, and the person only apply the rear brakes - which in this case is only the right wheel brake.

Is the right rear brake only sufficient to stop a bike + rider + luggage going 12 mph without the application of the front brake?

Would the trike pull hard to make a right turn if only the right rear brake is applied?  How much steering correction is needed?

I am a bit hesitant, I'll wait for the long term reviews.

Naturally, the safe way is to apply all the brakes all the time on a bike regardless of whether it is a 2, 3 or 4 wheels.

On the plus side of things, it seems to be a modular system - to a point. Even if Rad stops making it, you can add your own front drive system. This actually reassures me knowing I am not dependent on one company. Of course, if the rear drive breaks, one would still have a hard time if Rad stops making it but that's (not having a second source for all the parts) pretty standard I think for trikes.