Quote from: JimInPT on February 21, 2023, 09:17:41 AM
Now let's guess price ..... I'll open the bidding at $1,699 as 'Lectric rubs their hands together in glee.

I don't know about everybody else and maybe my relative income has declined. $2499. It seems like a lot of money compared to $1200 Rad Mini ST2 ($1299-$100 for 3 months delay) just 2 years ago.  It is a bit too upscale for me and maybe Rad is targeting a more upscale market.  Seems to me $1300 of difference would allow me to upgrade my Mini ST2 to do more that this new bike. For example, I can add a new trailer and buy another battery and carry more and outlast the new bike for distance.  Maybe the only thing I cannot do is carry another passenger.

The trailer for $299 is interesting though.

Lectric XPedition Electric Cargo Bike says its weight limit is 450 pounds.  Maybe it would work, but I recommend against it.  Can the spec be trusted? How will the motor handle a triple load - compared with a 150-pound rider.

It is not going to be a fun bike to ride, especially if you have to stop on an incline, going up, going down and going traverse (very bad). Traffic lights will force that on you. I think it can be dangerous on any bike.  If you have to carry that much cargo, maybe a car is more enjoyable.

The rules and regulations and safety equipment set a minimum standard of safety. We should all try to aim for a higher standard for ourselves. If I had to haul a total of 400 pounds, I'll only feel comfortable in an electric trike or a car.

Be safe and best wishes.

Quote from: JimInPT on February 21, 2023, 09:17:41 AM
Also looks like the downtube is big enough to stuff the controller in there like the new Rovers etc.  Another step down the road of making it more difficult to mod/hotrod the line?

Now let's guess price ..... I'll open the bidding at $1,699 as 'Lectric rubs their hands together in glee.

I prefer the slap-together bolt-on look of my RadMine ST2.  It is like buying a kit and I can upgrade all I want.  And, it was the cheapest option back then from a reliable company. I am still a Rad fan but there are other cheap options now.

I understand it is psychological.  Probably, if I plan on going on 100 mile trips and had a new rad bike, the most painless thing to do is to just buy 2 or 3 more semi-integrated batteries. If I decided to go for a 100 mile ride, I'll probably should allocate enough money to cover that and concentrate on the fun things in life.

But, it still feels good to know that I can mod and hot rod if I wanted to.

Quote from: Hads on February 16, 2023, 10:37:32 AM
I was able to get my RadRover 6+ for just $10 a year with my renter's insurance.  Check with your renters/homeowners company to see if they'll add it.  I thought that maybe it only covered theft directly from my apartment, but they told me it's covered on the road to in case anybody breaks the lock and steals it!

"Breaks the lock" raises a red flag.

You should check to see if there is a need to show force was used, check to see if a police report is needed, will they reimburse you for a "mysterious disapperance?"  That is, you come out of the store and the bike is now missing with no evidence any locks are broken.  What if your battery or pannier is stolen with no evidence of lock breakage? What if you use a cheap cable lock? Are you covered?  And then check if the police will actually come and provide a report if you call them - maybe they are busy and you have to go to the police office.

Read this about an alleged thief of two phones of about $2000 and company refuses to resend or refund.  "The problem is compounded by the fact that police departments in some jurisdictions refuse to investigate petty theft. In this latest case, for example, the customer from California said they were unable to file a police report about the incident."

Check all these things.  Read the policy.

Just looking out for you.

I understand

1.  The trike can go backwards on electric power alone.
2.  There is not much drag on the trike going forward if you do not use electricity - indicating a ratchet system.
3.  The power hub is a geared hub - not a direct drive.

I am wondering how this is done.  I understand geared hubs only go forward with a ratchet system so it can only turn one way. That way, when the motor is not running, the motor is not a drag force on the rotation. 

So how does a geared hub with a ratchet system go backwards?  Maybe my assumption is incorrect and the geared hub engaged 100% of the time with no ratchet system?

Just a guess and maybe something you should try.

The power cuts out if the brakes are applied. It is one of those circuits where if the brakes are disconnected, the bike will still move so you are not stuck somewhere.  An open switch will let the motor run. A closed switch will inhibit the motor.  Also, if the headlight or taillight is connected badly, wrong, or corroded or something, the bike won't work.

Therefore, if you electrically disconnect the brakes and headlights and tail lights, things may work.  Keep track of the connections so you know how to plug it in again.

I am no expert and I don't own your bike, it is just a thought, do at your own risk.

Things were safer back when people used rim brakes because of the physics of it.  Disk brakes, in the current configuration, tend to pull the wheel out and off the fork if the skewer is loose.

My Mini ST2 has a rim around the skewer preventing the wheel from coming off if the skewer is slightly loose.  It seems a good compromise for me - with the added convenience that it is easier to fix a wheel. But you have to check it from time to time. And you can change to a bolt if you want.

I think through axles are too expensive in this price range and I don't want to pay for it.  The rest of the rad bike is of sturdy servicable quality - and I don't blame them because of the low price.  It works well for its time and price range.  Through axles will drive the price up and also make the parts more proprietary and less interchangeable with standard parts.  Parts get cheaper and cheaper (e.g., disc brakes) so maybe eventually we will get it.

Keep in mind that a chain is a $16 part. So the question is - why worry about a $16 part so much?  Why use a $16 bottle of lube to protect a $16 chain.

Also, WD 40 does leave an oily residue. Put some between your fingers and see if it is slippery. My experience with door hinges, gate hinges, locks, and bicycle chains is that it provides some degree of long term lubrication. 

It is easy to repeat that WD-40 is not a lubricant but it is not based on facts. <<I think the people who post it on the web is using hyperbole/exaggeration to state a point to influence your decision. But it is not strictly true.  WD40 at least inhibit rust and provide minimal lubrication - it is better than nothing.>>  Based on my personal experience, and by rubbing it between your fingers, will show you that it leaves an oily residue and decreases friction.  Do your own experiment.  Spray some on a window, come back in a week, see if it is still slippery.  Rub some between your fingers. 

I think no lubricant is putting the chain in a carburetor cleaner or xylene (with or without scrubbing) and then drying it.  That would really produce a dry chain devoid of lubricants.

Motor oil or any oil except maybe the type that dries and oxidize to a gum, is good.  I am not against motor oil, or general purpose lubricants and I like the squeeze bottle idea.  It is my feeling that one should not spend so much money/effort protecting a $16 part.

Unoiled chains squeak.  I have lubed squeaky rusty chains with WD40 and that gets rid of the squeeks for a month easy.  I don't know if unoiled chains make more noise in their interaction with the gear cluster or chain ring.

<<I agree with people who says that if you have time adding some oil, other than wd40, would be beneficial.  I am just lazy but I might get a squeeze bottle and put some motor oil in it.  Whatever motor oil I use on my lawn mower.

WD40 suits my lifestyle just fine.  I rode bikes for decades and commuted on them, I've never stretched a chain.  Maybe chain stretching is for people 10x more athletic than me who are on their bikes all the time and pump real hard. This is fine for me and I am not putting anyone down. For daily commuting, I never was able to stretch the chain. I do have multiple bikes.  I also have a lot less clothing damage from an oily chain (something for commuters to consider).  If WD40 is truly nothing, it is also beneficial to commuters who don't want to dirty up their clothes, which cost a lot more than the chains.

One of my theories is that a clean chain with WD40 beats a dirty chain regardless of how much expensive oil you put on.  If you have to scrub your chain before lubricating, you are already behind.  Best to spray that WD40 often and keep the chain clean than carefully dripping a drop of expensive stuff per link.>>

One secret is a big towel. 

I lube my chain enough with cheap WD40 (or whatever is on sale) so that a solid cake never develops.  By the time black wax like dirt develop that you can remove with a screwdriver or a brush, I think it is too late. 

Day before trash day, put a lot of trash cardboard or newspaper or junk mail on the ground.  Spray the chain, chain wheel, gear cluster, derailleur, everything.  Spray a lot.  Let all the dirt wash out.  Wipe with the towel. I don't even use a brush. Repeat until it is all gone.  Toss the towel in the wash. 

Since WD-40 is cheap at $30 a gallon, you can afford to do this.  If you buy $100 to $120 a gallon lube, it is harder to do.

I had the same problem with the tail light.

Plug and unplug the light.  Maybe do it 10 times - checking each time to see if you solved the problem.  I know it is a pain - but maybe some oxidation in the connectors.

Those connectors are a pain, you need good hand strength.  Be gentle.  Or else you break the connector. Don't pull on the cord. Only pull the thicker connector part. 

Naturally, do it correctly. Don't mis-align.  Or else you have a broken connector.

Are you using an original equipment wheel?

I have no experience but with my taillight, I had to plug and unplug 10 times.  I guess some oxidation on the connectors. 

Worth a try but it is unlikely to be your problem.

My mini ST2 was the best and cheapest bike available when I bought it.  Of course, that is why I bought it because it was the best deal on the market at that time.  The situation has changed since then and I don't know what I would buy today. It was very cheap back then.  But then I've rode bikes for decades so I know how to fix everything. I also know exactly what I want except for the electric motor.

Back then, I considered I bought a "kit" of a bike and fixing things here and there seem natural. 

Sometimes, when you buy a kiddy bike from a toy store, some parts are so cheap they were never meant to work.  But this was not the case with the Rad.
All the parts worked well enough.  Considering the price and Rad had to make a living, I do not begrudge them for not having top shelf parts.  Also, top shelf parts are not so important on a 70 pound ebike.

I suggest starting low, say at 20 pounds.  Get used to the bike.  Pump it up to 25 pounds and see if you feel better.  Then pump it up to 30 pounds and see if you like it better.

I use 30 pounds myself because the lower rolling resistance gives me better power and range.  I am a road or well worn path rider so I don't need mud/dirt traction or even a soft ride as roads are pretty smooth.

Some people use lower pressure for traction on dirt and a more comfortable ride.

Decide for yourself.

I am from the chain lube is not important camp. Here are my reasons especially for an ebike.  But everyone do what they want.  I am just sharing.

1.  You are riding a 60-70 pound bike - more with accessories.  If you were really into efficiency, you would have bought a 50 pound ebike or less.  What is the point of being efficient now at 60 to 70 pounds?
2.  You are using the battery. Any deficiency in chain lube can be overcome with a little more juice - like 10 extra watts at most.
3.  Any efficiency benefit is minimal compared to your battery power. Spend your time and money on another battery instead.
4.  Compared to my non-electric road bike, all the bearings on a Rad is really second-rate, like super store discount quality. Why try so hard? Why not upgrade the derailleur rollers, check the tightness of your bottom bracket bearings or upgrade, check tightness of your wheel bearings, ensure your brakes are not rubbing, buy a better chain. Use a pedal clip to improve your pedalling. Not criticizing Rad, there is a battery and motor - that's why.
5.  You are not pedaling as hard anyway. You are saving 6-10 watts at most with a clean chain instead of a rusted chain - check the web. But that is on a manual bicycle with lots of pedaling. On a 750 watt motor bike, it is hardly worth it.  I also assume your chain is not rusted so the benefit is less.
6.  A lot of efficiency can be gained by lubing your chain more often with a cheaper lubricant and wiping the same.  Keep your bike relatively warm and dry by storing it in the garage helps.
7.  Chain lube is expensive, ad driven. Unless you are racing, do you really care whether you finish 20 miles 2 minutes ahead? When you have an ebike, getting is getting there 2 minutes early even meaningful? When you ride in a group, do you really care so much you are ahead? Calculate how much the lube is costing you per gallon - you will be amazed. If you can afford it and it makes you feel better - it is fine and I am not here to tell you what to do. But I rather spend my money somewhere else.  Some people think certain brands are just repackaged chainsaw lube of something close to it.
8.  If you are trying so hard to squeeze another 5-10 watts, consider wearing wind cheating racing clothes, aero helmets, using drop bars, aero narrow seats. Increase tire pressure but keep it safe. Every little bit helps.  But - you have a 70 pound bike.  It is not even a trainer with the same geometry as the bike you plan to use on race day.

<<added>> Based on the above, a little WD40 or whatever spray lube you have at home is good enough. I think the trick is to wipe and oil often, especially if you ride when wet to prevent rust. I used WD40, now tri-lube that I use on my lawn equipment, hedge trimmer, and stuff. I buy whatever is on sale at the hardware store. My chain and sprocket looks brand new because I lube and wipe.

I think everyone has access to the same type of technology and the same components. There is not going to be a bike that will suddenly perform much better.

It used to be that Rad had the best available at the lowest price point. When I bought it it was all I could afford. You go any lower and the quality is not assured. It was a kit bike in the sense you need to put it together and have some self-diagnostic skills and some tools if things don't work out. I think that market is tapped out so if Rad wants to expand, it would have to sell to people who are not handy with tools. The low-price situation has changed too. Some low-price products have had decent reviews.

So Rad has to cater to a more prosperous community that expects higher quality and less thinking.  It is not a putdown. By analogy, I suppose I have the brains but when I buy a stove, I don't want to deal with adjusting the flame myself depending on if I use propane or natural gas. I just don't want to think about it.

I think Rad is going to have to focus on some sort of value that one would not get if one were to buy from a low cost company. Rad is not going to compete with high end bikes and can't compete with bottom end priced products.  It is going to have to have some name recognition, a buzz, - like hydroflask.

I think as other have said, having replacement parts helps - even if they are way expensive.  At least you can get a brake lever or a spare tire. I broke a brake lever and it took 6 months to get a replacement.  I hope going into the future, even if things are high priced, having replacement parts would be a big plus.  I might actually buy it - when you consider the hassle of driving to a bike store or ordering from Amazon and making sure the parts fit. Sometimes, Amazon doesn't even have it.  High price don't bother me as much because I understand the cost of stocking parts.  Not having it is a big hassle.  Sell battery mounts and stuff.  Why not.  So your customers can customize their bike any way they want. Sell all the wheels so people can make custom bikes.  Got to keep tires and tubes in stock. 

It is OK to have a no return policy on parts. I understand the cost of keeping inventory. At least customers have a choice of buying from you rather than having a bike not work for 6 months. They can also buy from Amazon if they want returns.  It is nice to have access to parts.