@DickB was referring to the step down converter you listed. It is a 12 watt model. It's undersized to power an 18 watt light.


XWST DC/DC Converter Regulator 36V 48V Step Down to 12V 1A 12W Reducer Buck Power Converter Waterproof Module Transformer for Golf Cart Club Car https://amzn.to/3FUDF2G

My Rover 5 has 4" tires. The Tannus Armor came with 3.5" tubes to install with them to account for the smaller size. 

Thanks!

The one that I posted before does work with fat tire bikes. My Rad Rover 5 that I had it on is a fat tire bike. It says in the Product Details that it fits fat tire bikes.

I had this rack on my Rover 5. It's extremely adjustable to fit a lot of different bikes. I was able to adjust it to use the standard Rad mounting holes. It is very sturdy. The only reason that I replaced it was because I added the Rad large basket and the standard Rad had the specific mounting holes already for that. The Rad rear rack for the Rover 5 and Rover 6 are the same. Not sure if this one will fit the RR 6+ or not. One difference with this rack is that it also attaches to the seat post. That means that the seat post needs to be raised up about an inch to inch and a half from it's lowest level. If your someone who needs the seat down as low as it can go, it might not work. If you're in the US, it is on Amazon Prime with free shipping and free returns.


https://amzn.to/3Tzs9Nx

I'm hesitant to even share this because it will probably jinx me. I have Tannus Armor in my tires on my Rover 5. I had them originally in the stock Kenda tires that came with the bike where I put about 300 miles on them. I then changed my tires to Origin8 Supercells and moved the same Tannus Armor and tubes into those.  After I moved them to the Supercells I added Slime to them. Since then I have put another 1000 miles on them. I never deflate them, and I have never had a flat. I've ridden on some pretty tough roads where I've seen/heard other people get a fair amount of flats, like from Key Largo to Key West and back. Maybe I've just been lucky so far. My experience seems to be the opposite of what many other people have seen though.

I use the Robert Axel adapter above as well with my Rad Rover 5 and a Schwinn bike trailer. I just rode 253 miles on the Katy Trail across Missouri with this with about 75 lbs of stuff in the trailer. It worked perfectly.

https://amzn.to/3S3JJbv

@Spoonbender would you please post the part number or link for the 20 tooth that you put on? Thanks!

I use a Kryptonite Kryptolock U-Lock and KryptoFlex cable. I use the u-lock just like a heavy duty padlock with the cable. I have the 7 foot cable when I have just my bike and I have the 30 foot cable for when I have both my bike and my wife's. The 30 foot is really long. Wish there was something between the 7 foot and 30 foot. I just make sure the cable goes through the frame, the rear wheel, and the front wheel and also around a bike rack or light/telephone pole. I also take the battery off and carry it inside with me. I also have a motion sensing alarm on both bikes. Here's the links to all this stuff.


https://amzn.to/3yzYJXD


https://amzn.to/3yD9UyS


https://amzn.to/3em53ex


https://amzn.to/3g257k2

The box that it comes in is ideal for shipping. I would just have them not assemble it and check it in that original box (after taking the battery out to ship it).


My understanding is that large capacity lithium batteries cannot be shipped via air. Have you looked into that? Are you somewhere in Alaska that can be shipped to via a ground (or by sea?) shipping service?

Does anyone know if the battery on the $499 RadMission will work on a Rover 5?


I know it is lower capacity at 504Wh vs. the 672Wh. If it works though, $499 would be a good price for a battery and a bunch of other spare parts.

I did the mid. I didn't want to try and run the cable inside the frame for the lower. The upper would have been significantly cheaper, but it would have had all that loose cable when I moved up and down. 

I put this dropper seat post on my Rover 5 about a month ago. I love it. I like to have the seat up very high while I'm riding, but it's great to have it all the way down when I come to a stop. Having the thumb control on the handlbar to adjust it makes it easy. Last week I just rode 253 miles over 6 days on the Katy Trail in Missouri and this was so helpful. I used it to adjust the seat up and down while riding to make it more comfortable on my butt and knees vs. being in the same position the whole time. It wasn't cheap, but it is definitely one of my best upgrades.


https://amzn.to/3dWOVjb

I do the same thing as you santacruzpaul. I don't check on the weekends either. That meant I had 219 pages this morning when I logged in. I sent a PM to Ryan last week offering to help as well. If we could just get babi1004 deleted that would stop the majority of it for now.

Yes. When I first bought it I installed it that way. I thought I wanted it pointing back so I could sit more upright. The handlebars felt too close for me, so I turned it around the other way.