Quote from: Traildad on December 30, 2023, 05:27:31 PM
I had my controller installed by a shop and I don?t have a manual. How do you enter setup mode?

IIRC, you power it up, then within 5 seconds press Up and Down simultaneously.

Here's the manual:  https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2979751/Kunteng-Kt-Lcd8hp.html

Quote from: Traildad on December 30, 2023, 05:02:23 PM
Took it out for a quick spin around the block. I like the new controller. It has good acceleration but not so powerful that it would ride out from under me.

If you don't have the manual for that controller, here's a link to view/download:  https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2979751/Kunteng-Kt-Lcd8hp.html?page=26#manual

I believe the C5 parameter controls how fast the power amps up when applying throttle, so you can adjust how lively it is off the line.  There are other settings that also affect power delivery and top speed.   I have mine maxed out to scoot through busy intersections from a stop.  Plus, it's fun having a stealthy, innocent-looking little pocket rocket that pulls pretty good at just under 1,600 watts.

Have fun!

If it were me, I'd try putting a 10,000mAH battery pack into a frame-mounted water bottle bag (not a wire-frame holder, a bag) and charging from that.

I use one like this: https://amzn.to/4b2J9VU strapped to the handlebar riser tube to carry a GoPro mounted on an extender, batteries etc.  Works great.

Quote from: handlebar on December 17, 2023, 12:28:24 PM
That was me honking at a darned pedestrian in the next aisle.

Nice display spoiler-fin there, man.  I betcha get another 1-2 mph on the top end as a result.

Quote from: inoxa on December 17, 2023, 12:27:39 PM
Here is an option so that you don't have to put new brake levers on your bike and still upgrade to hydraulic. 

https://amzn.to/3u369nd

I can vouch for those, which I bought through Area 13 at a better price, but that was over a year ago.  I'm very happy with the slight but noticeable increase in braking power, less need for adjustments and the fact that the pistons push from both sides instead of just one like the factory calipers, so they don't distort the rotors.

Quote from: pehayes on December 08, 2023, 12:53:37 PMI select charging time based on my level of use and drain status of the battery.  It charges for that time period and fully disconnects.

That's the smart approach for safety and battery longevity.  I use a timer like that on my water distiller, because it always runs for exactly the same amount of time, but for my bike charger I use a smart plug in the garage ceiling outlet (where the door opener is plugged in) set up on my Alexa network and programmed with several different-time routines.  I have an Echo device in the garage for playing internet radio and listening for commands, so I just connect to the battery and say "Echo, ebike 2 hours" or 4, 6 or maximum 7 hours depending on the battery state of charge.  Hands-free and handy; got the smart plug (one of many in my house) on a one-day sale for less than $10.

Just a slightly-geekier way to do the same thing, which is to limit the charging time - that's the important thing.  I wish the fancier programmable battery-monitoring chargers weren't so damn expensive - I'd love to just be able to program 85% charge level and be done with it, instead of guessing how much time it'll need to get to about there.

Quote from: dcdear on November 19, 2023, 08:43:28 PM
Thanks -- this helps. I'm a 30 inseam.

You're very welcome.  Say, if you end up buying a Rad bike, please consider using Ryan's (this forum's owner/operator) link at the bottom of the page to get him a little kickback from the sale - doesn't change your order or cost you anything.  I got a lot of help here in my early days, so I'm happy to do what I can to support it.

How tall are you, and leg inseam?  I'm 5'7" with 29" inseam, my 2021 MiniST2 fits me like a glove and is about the same size as a Runner or Contract (my name for the Expand, which is a de-featured MiniST, sadly).  A Rover or even City would be too tall for comfortable stops especially, and would be a handful on the hardpacked-dirt woods trails I like to ride (not mountain-bike stuff, just mucking about on the walking/horse trails).

If you want baskets; I'd recommend one in the rear for two reasons: the extra weight on the steering geometry and a headlight that is fixed and doesn't turn with the front wheel (a front basket moves the headlight to the front of the frame-mounted basket).  And depending on age/agility, I would HIGHLY recommend a stepthrough model from any manufacturer, especially if you expect to have tall bags of groceries etc. in a rear basket, for me that's a swingover height my knees/hips just won't do anymore.

For my height, inseam and needs, I wouldn't sell my MiniST2 at gunpoint.  It's just right.

Hope this helps a bit.

I just wandered over to http://area13ebikes.com/ to get a link to their caliper upgrade and discovered they are having a VERY nice sale on many items including both the 35A controllers and hydraulic-hybrid brake calipers for Rads.  I installed and love both of these on my 2021 MiniST2 but they'll work for most Rad models except the ones with semi-integrated batteries and hydraulic brakes:

https://area13ebikes.com/products/radkit

https://area13ebikes.com/products/juintechm1

So FYI, gang!

Sorry I can't give you the model number, but I can recommend a replacement front/rear caliper set, which happens to be on a very good 1/3rd-off sale until Nov 30th (noticed that when I went to get this link for you):

https://area13ebikes.com/products/juintechm1

I installed these on my 2021 MiniST2 but I think they're used on most/all Rads except the newest models with hydraulic brakes, so your Runner should be no problem.  Very easy to install, a video is on the link above to illustrate, just remove original caliper and drop right in (spacers are included but I don't think I needed any) - they improved brake performance noticeably on the steep downhill grades.  It's double-acting as well, unlike the factory singles, which only move on one side of the rotor.  These are mechanically-actuated hydraulic calipers, so you keep your existing brake cables.

Definitely recommended and I wish I'd been able to get this price a year ago.

Good luck!

Thanks for the heads-up, Ryan.  I think Lectric is just kicking Rad's butt all over the field for trike sales and maybe other categories as well.  I couldn't believe the lack of features on the Rad model for a thousand dollars more IIRC than Lectric when it came out.

Still quite happy and content with my 2021 MiniST2.

Quote from: John Rose on November 05, 2023, 11:10:03 AM
My choice was limited, because it was a second-hand (only 10 km on the odometer) RadMini ST2

The only thing I would wish for is to be able to bring the seat closer to the handlebars or vice-versa. I feel like I'm putting a lot of pressure on my wrists by not being able to sit completely upright. I've got the seat as far forward on the post as it will go. Now I'm wondering if a BMX-style handlebar like on the RadExpand 5 (adjustable fore-and-aft) would work better for me?

I absolutely love my 2021 MiniST2; it turned out to be everything I was looking for, even though I've changed the seat and added some other goodies.

Before you add a different handlebar, try to get some idea of how much you can extend the existing cables first, so you don't have to do major surgery there.  Also, have you looked at simply loosening the handlebar clamps and rotating the bar to get the grips closer?  That's what I did, plus I raised it a bit as well - just a small adjustment made a big difference in both posture and reducing pressure on my palms and wrists.

Quote from: handlebar on November 03, 2023, 02:59:57 AM
With mechanical brakes, a quicker tip is to reach through the front spokes with a long Allen wrench to clamp the wheel by tightening the brake adjuster.

That is a GREAT idea, even though I live in a very low-crime area.  A purchase of a long-handled Allen wrench that can be tucked into my toolpouch wouln't be a big deal.

Quote from: handlebar on November 02, 2023, 10:36:22 AM
Do they say at what distance they measured 113 dB?

I'm sure they don't, but I don't care - it's VERY loud and at screechy annoying frequencies.  I have a sound meter, but don't need it to know this alarm is sufficiently attention-getting.  Whether it actually does succeed in getting the attention of bystanders is a different story.......

In your circumstance, parked outside a restaurant on a busy road, an alarm like this might have been a deterrent:

https://amzn.to/3RnqRXC

I was pleasantly surprised to find that it's much better made than you'd think for the price, and after two years on the bike it's still doing fine.  I have it strapped under the rear basket just above the rear fender, where it's invisible to potential thieves.  Great range on the remote and is quite sensitive - nobody moves my bike even a little bit without first a warning blurt, then an ear-splitting siren if they're dumb enough to proceed.  It's also possible to manually blurt it with the remote if you have eyes-on and don't want people too close.  You can adjust the volume, sensitivity and the type of alarm sound, as I recall.

The only downside is that the batteries in the alarm itself only last one riding season.  They're easy and cheap to replace in the spring, but I have to cut and then reinstall zipties - not a huge deal.  The remote takes a bit of getting used to, as you arm/disarm with two separate buttons.

I use this alarm in addition to my Abus folding and/or U-lock when parking it out of my sight.  Recommended, even if belatedly in your case.