Semi-integrated battery fuse replacement

[cmurphy_mcse]

All I can say is THANK YOU!  I did use a hair dryer to make popping off the two plastic caps to expose two of the four screws.  So glad this is an easy fix versus buying a $500 battery.  Poor engineering on this battery especially since the older style battery was easy to replace the fuse.

[BRP Bike Shop]

Im having a really hard time popping off the end cap. Any tips on what actually will fit in the crack to pry it open?

Thanks for this guide

[hughes200]

I shorted out the battery on the RadRover6 by inadvertently trying to put the key in the charging port.  I followed the directions to replace the fuse but ended up destroying the battery.  Does anyone other than Rad sell this exact battery?

Thanks

[inoxa]

I shorted out the battery on the RadRover6 by inadvertently trying to put the key in the charging port.  I followed the directions to replace the fuse but ended up destroying the battery.  Does anyone other than Rad sell this exact battery?

Thanks

I don't think so.  But there are battery repair places.  search online.  I know one in california and another in colorado.

[Naranja_CT5+]

I shorted out the battery on the RadRover6 by inadvertently trying to put the key in the charging port.  I followed the directions to replace the fuse but ended up destroying the battery.  Does anyone other than Rad sell this exact battery?

Thanks

As a single unit maybe the battery is non-functional but as individual cells I think those batteries are still good. Use them as spare parts. Or sell it, there is still value on it.

I noticed that it looked like there is very little room inside the battery enclosure but I wonder if securing a circuit breaker with a heavy duty glue and drilling a small window to reset possible? Of course I would not do this on a good battery.

This mishap happened so frequently I am also wondering if scanning a key is feasible. I do not know much about 3D printing but maybe having a non-conducting key helps to prevent accidental shorting.

[wleiden@gmail.com]

Thanks to everyone for the solid information on this thread.  I finally tore into mine this morning and lucked out  - it has the replaceable 10 amp fuse.

The fuse is deeper in than I expected.  To get better access to the fuse I ended up pulling off the other side as well, loosened up the silicone holding the assembly in place and pushed the assembly out a bit.  I still cannot believe what a bad design this is.

But I had success - the battery is currently charging away!

Thanks everyone.

Adams, how did you loosen up the silicon? I can't get the battery to budge inside the casing. I replaced the 10A fuse awhile ago, successfully, but charging stopped again after a two month hiatus. I replaced the fuse, but the old one didn't appear burned out. Still not charging. Replace the other 40A? fuse? Try to jump the battery through the discharge port? At a loss and don't want to throw good $ after bad. Thanks.

[Naranja_CT5+]

how did you loosen up the silicon? I can't get the battery to budge inside the casing.

I replaced the fuse, but the old one didn't appear burned out. Still not charging. Replace the other 40A? fuse?

There are videos suggesting that the silicon is glued to the aluminum casing. You have to carefully loosen it first.

How are you testing the fuses? visual or meter.

I do not know how it would affect charging but Could your battery on Ship mode?

[sunnymike]

I'm inserting myself into one of your answers to someone else because it appears you know a lot about these batteries.

I want to use my 2 RadCity 4 bike batteries as power for the Trolling Motor on my kayak. They are 48V 14 Ah each. The Trolling motor is 24V 48amp max. current or 1152 watts. So the 2 bike batteries in parallel should work nicely. I have made 2 3D printed connectors I found on Thingiverse that hooks up to the 48v power terminals on the battery. I have to connect them to a converter to reduce the voltage to 24Vdc. When I meter the output of the battery I get 53Vdc with the key on. When I then connect it to the input of the convertor I get 0 volts when I turn the key on. Someone who has done a similar project found the same issue with connecting to the converter. He previously purchased a spare replacement battery. Because it looked different in a few non-functional ways he tried that battery and it worked great! Finally to my question why is the older battery going to zero volts under load and can I make that function go away? Do the 3 small connection points on the battery connector have something to do with it?