Quote from: jwminor on September 08, 2022, 04:46:30 AM
I have a Rad Rover 6, don't see where the fuse part is on the battery. Does anyone have a picture for this so I know where to look for it?

https://www.radowners.com/index.php/topic,1655.0/topicseen.html

If the display powers up the 40A fuse is not blown.

Does the battery charge?

It might be the battery, not the charger. Check the charger output with a multimeter - it should read 54.6 V.
 

Quote from: K2WW on September 14, 2022, 09:08:41 AM
won't likely be purchasing another rad branded semi-integrated battery.

Why not? I'm very new to my rover6+, but on my last 2 group rides with guys on 5's, their battery life was WAY better than mine. I too will be getting another battery if this one doesn't "settle in"
We rode 18 miles, I was on pas 1-3, average was 2, I had 4 bars left when we finished, the other 4 had 3 and 4 out of 5 bars.
Did the get a bad batch of batteries for the RR6?

I'm confused by your post. It reads like you got the same or better battery life than your companions. Did you have 4 of 5 bars on your bike's display, or 4 of 10 LEDs on the battery?

Are you willing to open your battery and do some simple checks with a voltmeter?

Quote from: Capt Slappy on September 03, 2022, 12:28:54 PM
OK, so I went through this whole thread and I think I have an even newer battery that wasn't charging.  Got the bike in July.  Went through the pictures and video, but I do not have a fuse at all that I can locate on the battery.   Photo below.  They try something new but same issue?  Waiting on the phone for help over 2 hours.  RAD has got issues and it?s a shame.  Any help appreciated.

Look here: https://www.radowners.com/index.php/topic,1655.msg12657.html#msg12657

There is a flex cable to the battery meter next to the 10A fuse. You may have damaged it. It will not affect use of the battery. Use the meter on your bike's display.

Quote from: joeliniowa on August 22, 2022, 09:24:35 PM
Batteries are good for ~1000 full charge cycles.

Rad claims 800 cycles. Samsung says 80% capacity after 500 cycles. Actual results are very dependent upon how the batteries are used, charged, and stored. DoD (Depth of Discharge) is a major determining factor. For example, look at the attached chart. If you fully charge then fully discharge your battery, expect 300 cycles. If you charge then discharge 50%, expect 1000 cycles (not 600).  Another reason to fully charge after every ride.

Quote from: Rover on August 20, 2022, 02:51:48 PM
As Ive posted before I had similar trouble with the battery on my Rover 6 Plus. I thought I'd done something to short the fuse. Got myself in the RAD response system--had to send photos, video of plug in procedure, etc. About a week later I thought I'd plug the battery in just to see what's going on. Shocking (no pun intended) in that it charged!! Instead of showing green meaning charging is completed (which it showed previously despite the battery showing less than full charge) it showed red. In an hour or so it showed green. The battery now showed a full charge. I sent pictures of this to RAD. My assumption was bad battery. But a RAD technician called me to explain what is happening. Apparently the battery can receive an experience that implies a short (my words not his). But--these batteries can do a re-set on their own internally. He said these are the latest battery technology and most advanced batteries for RAD to date. He assured me the battery was now fine and I won't have any problems. So far he is correct. I've ridden and recharged the battery a couple times now and all works perfectly. How weird is all this? But all's well that ends well.

Was your battery warm when you tried to charge it? The BMS (Battery Management System) in the battery will prevent charging on over temperature. It has happened to me a couple of times here in Florida when I have used high PAS levels. I just left the charger plugged in, and it started charging when the battery cooled a bit. Note that the battery was warm to the touch, not hot.

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on August 22, 2022, 09:22:25 AM
How much of it is Rad's design vs them just buying whatever is available off the shelf?

As far as I know, the semi-integrated battery form factor is unique to Rad. So I doubt it is off-the-shelf. But, Rad may likely be relying on the battery supplier for electrical design. Even so, if Rad is dictating form factor, they could certainly be giving electrical requirements to their supplier - certainly they could specify fuse type and placement. I wonder if Rad even has an electrical engineer on staff.

Are you willing to open it up and do some diagnosis?

The best source of the type of information that you want will be from the cell manufacturer's specifications. Keep in mind in the Standard Rad battery there are 4 cells in parallel. So, for example, multiply cell maximum continuous discharge current of 8,000 mA x 4 yields 32A. Max amps is going to be limited by the 40A fuse. As far as I can tell, the BMS allows up to 50A. Max regen (charge current) 8A but not for cycle life. 

Quote from: Jay West on August 09, 2022, 07:19:44 AM
Dick

Are you saying the newer Rad Semi-Integrated Battery Pack's have the diode protection?

They do not. If they did, shorting the charge port would not cause the fuse to blow.

I have the older and newer Standard batteries in my shop. I reverse engineered a good portion of both. I identified the protection diodes on the newer Standard batteries, and did not see any on the older one (see photos).  I had an older semi-integrated battery a while back from an owner whose battery would not charge. It was on that one that I discovered the internal fuses. In fact I believe that I was the first to discover and post about the fact that the semi-integrated battery even had fuses. The 10A charge fuse was blown on that battery. I did not see any diodes on that version BMS. I no longer have that battery, as I returned it after replacing the fuse. I never had a newer semi-integrated battery in my shop; I only have seen photos and identified the surface-mount fuses for the owner who posted photos of it. I am unable to do a more detailed reverse engineering of it, as the photos are not clear enough to positively identify the components. But I could not spot any protection diodes in the photos.  And, as I say, if it did have them, shorting the charge port would not blow the charge fuse if it did.

Quote from: Norm01 on July 27, 2022, 03:57:10 PM
There is a big problem on the 6.  Seems some engineer decided to save $0.10.  There should be no power at the battery charge port, it?s an input not an output.  A simple 10 cents diode would of solved this problem by not allowing the current to return to the charge port.  Issue is if somehow you short the negative and positive terminals on this port the internal fuse will blow.  Not meant to be user replaceable.  Rad are trying to deny warranties based on user error when in fact it?s awful engineering, shorting the input port should not blow a fuse.  Output, that a different story.

Newer Standard batteries have these diodes, but older Standard batteries and the semi-integrated battery do not.

Newer Rad semi-integrated batteries use surface mount fuses soldered to the BMS board. Wrapped in black plastic. Older ones are wrapped in blue plastic with more easily replaceable fuses, which can be replaced without completely disassembling the battery. I've not seen a video on replacing the newer version fuses. It can be done, but will take considerably more work.