Quote from: Altema on October 13, 2021, 03:58:41 PM

Quote from: JTK77 on October 13, 2021, 02:05:04 PM
I know adding holes in geared hubs is not "widely recommended" but with generous greasing and yearly maintenance I decided go for it. Little waters isnt that bad but sand and dust can be. Added benefit to this approach is I can do IR temp measurement straight from the windings. I did concider adding thermistor later but haven't done that yet.
The reason why I didn't took the statorade route is because geared hubs have Air Gap between motor and casing that prevents heat from dissipating out.

Thanks for mentioning that, I completely forgot about the second air gap on geared motors. Makes ferrofluid kinda useless, lol.
It rains a lot where I live, then when I go to Delaware for group rides, we often go in deep loose sand. It has enough power with just the 2000 watts I'm using now, so I think 2400 watts on occasion with no vents should be ok. Either that, or I can make the holes a specific size, and plug them with caps when needed. The Phaserunner can modulate maximum power based on temperature, so I might just install a sensor and use that option.

Yes that power level will be ok. I did ran this motor without vents with 60v 35A for ~1000 miles without any heat problems. I know few other have done similar power levels without problem.

Quote from: Altema on October 12, 2021, 08:50:27 PM

Quote from: JTK77 on October 11, 2021, 11:39:30 PM

Quote from: Altema on October 09, 2021, 10:22:45 PM
Nice! I use the same motor, but the smaller wheel son the RadMini means a lower top speed. It still gets me an honest 30 - 32mph, but I've done 35mph in the tuck position to reduce wind resistance.

The motor is quite awesome for its size 🙂. I did add some vents on both side cover to further improve cooling (+generous greasing with SHC100).
Runs nicely and not too hot with 60v 48A (~3100w Max).

Wow, 3100 watts? I know Bafang builds some overhead in, but that's a lot!
I have mine limited to 2000w until I get comfortable. I was going to take the peak up to 2400 soon, but am considering using Statoraid for cooling instead of vents since I sometimes ride in the rain. It currently peaks at 2045w with 52 volts, but I get a solid 32mph with 30amps of field weakening. Did you add a thermistor to the motor?

I know adding holes in geared hubs is not "widely recommended" but with generous greasing and yearly maintenance I decided go for it. Little waters isnt that bad but sand and dust can be. Added benefit to this approach is I can do IR temp measurement straight from the windings. I did concider adding thermistor later but haven't done that yet.
The reason why I didn't took the statorade route is because geared hubs have Air Gap between motor and casing that prevents heat from dissipating out.

Juintechs are really not worth the money (widely accepted view which I agree). Much better to go for full hydraulics. XODs are cheap If you are looking for budget solution. These are way better and cheaper than Juintechs.
I prefer Magura MT5Es.

Quote from: Altema on October 09, 2021, 10:22:45 PM
Nice! I use the same motor, but the smaller wheel son the RadMini means a lower top speed. It still gets me an honest 30 - 32mph, but I've done 35mph in the tuck position to reduce wind resistance.

The motor is quite awesome for its size 🙂. I did add some vents on both side cover to further improve cooling (+generous greasing with SHC100).
Runs nicely and not too hot with 60v 48A (~3100w Max).

Quote from: JoseM on September 18, 2021, 06:00:16 PM
so far so good! im not going to go as far as to say I can wheelie the bike now but it definitely has some real torque now.
ive put about 30 miles on it so far and I love it. even kind of wish I could ramp down the torque a bit as I fear my little one could feel some whiplash when he's riding in the front. but its great I haven't gotten her past 31-32 mph and I don't care to. its just more robust, feels solid! instead of struggling on hills or to get up to speed.

here's the 750 that's commonly used
https://electrobikeworld.com/products/48v-750w-bafang-geared-rear-hub-motor

https://youtu.be/jCMqGodZBMw

Can you show pics of how the screws fit/allign?
Drop out was exatly the same with G062 or did you have to force it in place?

Quote from: Altema on September 23, 2021, 02:47:35 PM
Hmm, same motor I just bought, but yours has the Julet Z916 connector instead of the L1019 like mine. Wish I had seen this one sooner!

Which controller are you using?

L1019 way better than z916.

Hi
Can't remember exact figure but approx 50mA @ 48v. So not too many watts.

Quote from: neoworm on September 15, 2021, 02:54:12 PM
Does anyone know the current limit for the stock radwagon 4 motor controller. It doesn't appear to be written on there and I can't seem to find any info on the internet about it. Thanks

Stock US spec Rad controller is 25A but software limited to 17A. EggRider can override that to 24A.

Quote from: nate427 on June 10, 2021, 08:02:16 AM
Is that with the stock motor? What exactly did you do to modify it?

2017 Rad Rhino (/Rover).
60v 24Ah 120A BMS (continous) lockable downtube custom battery.
45A sine save controller.
Vented G062.1000.DC motor.
100mm Air fork.
Magura MT5e f223/r203 (Galfer) brakes.
52t chainring 8 speed trigger shifter 11-42t cassette.
780mm Rad Devil Riser handlebar with full grips, thump throttle, fork remote lockout.
Custom Kydex "carbon" skid Plate.
+ Other mods & parts.
42mph ~3 kW.

This "slightly" modified beast does 42 mph on level ground. Speed is plentiful so PAS 3 is often the most used assist level at speeds of 30-35 mph. Torque is enough (for accidental wheelies  ).

Quote from: Chuck Powell on June 02, 2021, 10:42:17 AM
Where can you purchase Radpower battery mounting brackets? I bought a RadWagon, a Radrunner +, and 2 spare batteries. I want to mount the brackets on the back racks so I can securely carry the spare batteries. Not really interested in the electrical connections as I plan to just switch out the battery when it is depleted.
I more interested in a secure locking method to carry a spare. It really shouldn't be that hard to get two simple brackets. 😳

Rad battery brackets are only available from Rad. Cannot be found anywhere else.

Quote from: DickB on May 27, 2021, 05:17:15 AM
If the Rad controller does not raise its 750W limit with a higher-voltage battery, there would be no increase in amperage to the motor.

Rad controller limits only amps.

Rad 48V Battery 13s4p Samsung 35e.
Controller is with 63v caps and higher fets.
52V battery is ok.

Quote from: wkindred on May 26, 2021, 11:38:23 AM

Quote from: JTK77 on May 19, 2021, 12:11:25 PM
Almost ready with my custom 60v 24Ah lockable downtube battery. Fitted with 120A/400A Daly BMS. Made of Samsung 40T 21700 cells.

is this something you're developing to sell...or personal mission?

This is something that I wanted to take as personal challenge/project. Not planning to build more as I`m not expert in batteries + lot of work to accomplish.

Quote from: ejonesss on May 26, 2021, 11:26:18 AM
you are saying rad bikes can support 60 volts with stock display, controller and motor?

Stock motor can handle 60v no problem. The problem with stock motor and wiring is they do not support that much amps. You can concider 25A as "safe" limit. Above risks for failure becomes more evident.
Stock controller and display support max 52v battery.

I have replaced every electrical component on my bike.