The tires should spin freely, and you should hear no rubbing noises.  If you can only get one full revolution, then it sounds like your brakes are not properly adjusted.

Did you swap batteries between bikes to confirm it's the battery and not the bike itself?

Any aftermarket seat will be far more comfortable than the stock seat, with a Cloud 9 being a favorite of many.  You'll have to replace the seat post at the same time (27.2 mm), and some take the effort to choose either a suspension post such as the Suntour SP12 NCX.

Quote from: ejonesss on May 25, 2021, 07:42:13 AM
without opening up the battery to count the cells i have no idea what way rad does it of course there is a warranty sticker the warranty would not be easily claimable anyways because.

See this post from DickB with photos included.

https://www.radowners.com/index.php?topic=1025.0

Great write up showing the step by step.  The one you made with the voltmeter/ammeter is especially pretty.

After having the RadRunner for one month, I wanted to test what it could do on the San Francisco hills fully loaded.  With a battery at 65%, pedal assist set at "4", max throttle, and a 340 lb payload (2 adults + cargo), I'd say the maximum a RadRunner 1 can climb is a 10% grade, and that's with me pedaling hard.  With a 7-mile ride with this 340 lb payload, 341-feet overall climb in elevation, 223-feet overall drop in elevation, and no climb exceeding 10% grade, I used ~22% of the battery capacity.

If you routinely run into these kinds of grades to move such heavy loads over large distances where your battery will be more depleted as the ride continues, for maximum bang-for-buck I'd suggest a Bolton controller + display upgrade to get the extra power, rather than getting a RadRunner Plus with the gears.  The gears will help with slow hill climbing and top unassisted speed so you're not pedaling super fast, but you'll wish you had the extra power to begin with.

Again, my test is with a 340 lb load, which is 40 pounds more than the stated maximum on Rad's website.

Interesting.  My charger floats at 54.0V.

That sounds like a good plug and play solution.  Maybe use higher amp diodes in case someone chooses a faster 3-amp charger (but can still use the plug-and-play device assuming barrel connectors).  I haven't tried yet, but I'm thinking of opening up the charger and seeing if there's a potentiometer to reduce the float voltage.  Of course, this would eliminate the possibility of charging the battery to "full" (95% in RAD's case).

Quote from: DickB on May 12, 2021, 04:40:55 PM
I would appreciate any feedback on interest in such a smart switch. I welcome questions.

Not questioning the value of your switch, but rather the pricing.  For $95-$100, one could get a brand new charger (of higher quality than the stock RAD charger) that does what your smart switch can do, plus:

1)  Allow the user to choose the charge rate to a perfectly safe, but still faster, 3 amps (stock charger is 2 amps) if they need the battery charged faster or an even slower 1 amp rate for even longer battery longevity, and
2)  Allow the user to have 2 chargers, using one as a backup.

https://lunacycle.com/luna-charger-48v-advanced-300w-ebike-charger/
https://www.bafangusadirect.com/Standard-48V-Bottle-Shark-Battery-Charger-p/42.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzNGnrpHG8AIVB__jBx18DAPMEAQYByABEgKI__D_BwE

As a side note, I've only seen my battery charge to 53.8V when the light turns green on the RAD stock charger, thus suggesting it only charges to 95%.  Has that been your experience?

Does it come with the headlight extension cord?

Just added a rear passenger handlebar for my Radrunner.  It really helps keep the rear adult passenger steady so their weight doesn't shift around and make the ride less stable.  Since RAD (sadly) doesn't offer one, I decided to use the "Sidekick Bar" from Tern, which fits a range of seatposts including the 27.2 mm post for the Radrunner.  For those who are wondering, it's 17" wide overall so it doesn't stick out the sides too much.  There are numerous adjustable and angled stoker bar setups if you need something different, but this is one of the cheaper and high quality all-in-one solutions.  There are cheap $17 rear handlebars on E-Bay, but those will easily bend / snap so I wouldn't advise using those.

https://www.ternbicycles.com/us/accessories/471/sidekick-bars

Hmmm.... Looks eerily similar to the RadRunner 1, but with fenders, LCD, and "free" rear large basket w/ cooler.  Tires use a standard 20" x 4" size.  Doesn't seem to have installation points for foot pegs.  Front basket mounting is slightly different as well as the handlebar stem and seat.  Also no chain tensioner.  Wonder if it uses the same motor/controller as the RadRunner 1.

https://www.rambobikes.com/electric-bike/the-rooster-750w-electric-bike/

Yes.  27.2mm for RadRunner 1.

Thanks Hbomb.  I've seen those small seats and handlebars on E-Bay that you have installed on your Radwagon.  Think they're strong enough for an adult to hold onto / support their weight?  Might I suggest you remove the passenger seat on the Radrunner Plus and add 2 zip ties (above the tailight) between your backrest and T-bracket.  Which T-bracket did you use?

I always thought the stepover height was more of an issue if the lid is on.  With the lid off, isn't it the same height as the rear rack?