This "slightly" modified beast does 42 mph on level ground. Speed is plentiful so PAS 3 is often the most used assist level at speeds of 30-35 mph. Torque is enough (for accidental wheelies ;D).
That's impressive.
Is that with the stock motor? What exactly did you do to modify it?
Quote from: nate427 on June 10, 2021, 08:02:16 AM
Is that with the stock motor? What exactly did you do to modify it?
2017 Rad Rhino (/Rover).
60v 24Ah 120A BMS (continous) lockable downtube custom battery.
45A sine save controller.
Vented G062.1000.DC motor.
100mm Air fork.
Magura MT5e f223/r203 (Galfer) brakes.
52t chainring 8 speed trigger shifter 11-42t cassette.
780mm Rad Devil Riser handlebar with full grips, thump throttle, fork remote lockout.
Custom Kydex "carbon" skid Plate.
+ Other mods & parts.
42mph ~3 kW.
Wow that's a bit fast for me on a bike.
Jim
I want one like that.. the wheelie thing got me!
THAT is a great looking, might I say "bad a$$", bike! 8)
Nice! I use the same motor, but the smaller wheel son the RadMini means a lower top speed. It still gets me an honest 30 - 32mph, but I've done 35mph in the tuck position to reduce wind resistance.
Quote from: Altema on October 09, 2021, 10:22:45 PM
Nice! I use the same motor, but the smaller wheel son the RadMini means a lower top speed. It still gets me an honest 30 - 32mph, but I've done 35mph in the tuck position to reduce wind resistance.
The motor is quite awesome for its size 🙂. I did add some vents on both side cover to further improve cooling (+generous greasing with SHC100).
Runs nicely and not too hot with 60v 48A (~3100w Max).
Quote from: JTK77 on October 11, 2021, 11:39:30 PM
Quote from: Altema on October 09, 2021, 10:22:45 PM
Nice! I use the same motor, but the smaller wheel son the RadMini means a lower top speed. It still gets me an honest 30 - 32mph, but I've done 35mph in the tuck position to reduce wind resistance.
The motor is quite awesome for its size 🙂. I did add some vents on both side cover to further improve cooling (+generous greasing with SHC100).
Runs nicely and not too hot with 60v 48A (~3100w Max).
Wow, 3100 watts? I know Bafang builds some overhead in, but that's a lot!
I have mine limited to 2000w until I get comfortable. I was going to take the peak up to 2400 soon, but am considering using Statoraid for cooling instead of vents since I sometimes ride in the rain. It currently peaks at 2045w with 52 volts, but I get a solid 32mph with 30amps of field weakening. Did you add a thermistor to the motor?
Quote from: Altema on October 12, 2021, 08:50:27 PM
Quote from: JTK77 on October 11, 2021, 11:39:30 PM
Quote from: Altema on October 09, 2021, 10:22:45 PM
Nice! I use the same motor, but the smaller wheel son the RadMini means a lower top speed. It still gets me an honest 30 - 32mph, but I've done 35mph in the tuck position to reduce wind resistance.
The motor is quite awesome for its size 🙂. I did add some vents on both side cover to further improve cooling (+generous greasing with SHC100).
Runs nicely and not too hot with 60v 48A (~3100w Max).
Wow, 3100 watts? I know Bafang builds some overhead in, but that's a lot!
I have mine limited to 2000w until I get comfortable. I was going to take the peak up to 2400 soon, but am considering using Statoraid for cooling instead of vents since I sometimes ride in the rain. It currently peaks at 2045w with 52 volts, but I get a solid 32mph with 30amps of field weakening. Did you add a thermistor to the motor?
I know adding holes in geared hubs is not "widely recommended" but with generous greasing and yearly maintenance I decided go for it. Little waters isnt that bad but sand and dust can be. Added benefit to this approach is I can do IR temp measurement straight from the windings. I did concider adding thermistor later but haven't done that yet.
The reason why I didn't took the statorade route is because geared hubs have Air Gap between motor and casing that prevents heat from dissipating out.
Quote from: JTK77 on October 13, 2021, 02:05:04 PM
I know adding holes in geared hubs is not "widely recommended" but with generous greasing and yearly maintenance I decided go for it. Little waters isnt that bad but sand and dust can be. Added benefit to this approach is I can do IR temp measurement straight from the windings. I did concider adding thermistor later but haven't done that yet.
The reason why I didn't took the statorade route is because geared hubs have Air Gap between motor and casing that prevents heat from dissipating out.
Thanks for mentioning that, I completely forgot about the second air gap on geared motors. Makes ferrofluid kinda useless, lol.
It rains a lot where I live, then when I go to Delaware for group rides, we often go in deep loose sand. It has enough power with just the 2000 watts I'm using now, so I think 2400 watts on occasion with no vents should be ok. Either that, or I can make the holes a specific size, and plug them with caps when needed. The Phaserunner can modulate maximum power based on temperature, so I might just install a sensor and use that option.
Quote from: Altema on October 13, 2021, 03:58:41 PM
Quote from: JTK77 on October 13, 2021, 02:05:04 PM
I know adding holes in geared hubs is not "widely recommended" but with generous greasing and yearly maintenance I decided go for it. Little waters isnt that bad but sand and dust can be. Added benefit to this approach is I can do IR temp measurement straight from the windings. I did concider adding thermistor later but haven't done that yet.
The reason why I didn't took the statorade route is because geared hubs have Air Gap between motor and casing that prevents heat from dissipating out.
Thanks for mentioning that, I completely forgot about the second air gap on geared motors. Makes ferrofluid kinda useless, lol.
It rains a lot where I live, then when I go to Delaware for group rides, we often go in deep loose sand. It has enough power with just the 2000 watts I'm using now, so I think 2400 watts on occasion with no vents should be ok. Either that, or I can make the holes a specific size, and plug them with caps when needed. The Phaserunner can modulate maximum power based on temperature, so I might just install a sensor and use that option.
Yes that power level will be ok. I did ran this motor without vents with 60v 35A for ~1000 miles without any heat problems. I know few other have done similar power levels without problem.
Quote from: JTK77 on October 13, 2021, 09:11:59 PM
Yes that power level will be ok. I did ran this motor without vents with 60v 35A for ~1000 miles without any heat problems. I know few other have done similar power levels without problem.
Thanks for the info. I'll probably only turn it up past 2000w for special occasions where I'm running dual batteries. Most of my batteries have a 40A BMS, so with a single 52V battery, it limits me a bit ;)
Well I turned it up, and what a blast. With the smaller wheels on the RadMini, the torque is hilarious, and I'm getting 34mph with a modest amount of field weakening.
I had a question though: how many amps is the BMS on your battery, and do you run with a single battery or duals?
Quote from: Altema on October 17, 2021, 09:15:49 PM
Well I turned it up, and what a blast. With the smaller wheels on the RadMini, the torque is hilarious, and I'm getting 34mph with a modest amount of field weakening.
I had a question though: how many amps is the BMS on your battery, and do you run with a single battery or duals?
Sounds awesome 👍
Im running single battery setup. I have a spare one too. The left one in picture is my main battery. My custom design lockable downtube battery. BMS is 120A continous and 400A burst.
Quote from: JTK77 on October 17, 2021, 09:41:48 PM
Quote from: Altema on October 17, 2021, 09:15:49 PM
Well I turned it up, and what a blast. With the smaller wheels on the RadMini, the torque is hilarious, and I'm getting 34mph with a modest amount of field weakening.
I had a question though: how many amps is the BMS on your battery, and do you run with a single battery or duals?
Sounds awesome 👍
Im running single battery setup. I have a spare one too. The left one in picture is my main battery. My custom design lockable downtube battery. BMS is 120A continous and 400A burst.
120A continuous and 400a burst? Color me jealous! My small batteries are 30A and my larger batteries are only 40A! My UPP 52V 40A battery is in the same case as yours on the right, which is problematic because 2400W @ 52V is 46.15 amps, and that makes me a bit uncomfortable putting that much stress on a single battery. Today I did try it with the one battery, and it did supply a peak of 50A, but still not comforting. I'm thinking I might pull the power back down because I was riding with traffic (it does 34mph easy now), but the cable to the motor got warm. I would leave both batteries in which gives me 80A to play with, but I pick up our 10 year old from the bus, and have to pull off the rack battery to bolt on the seat.
Quote from: Altema on October 18, 2021, 06:41:39 PM
Quote from: JTK77 on October 17, 2021, 09:41:48 PM
Quote from: Altema on October 17, 2021, 09:15:49 PM
Well I turned it up, and what a blast. With the smaller wheels on the RadMini, the torque is hilarious, and I'm getting 34mph with a modest amount of field weakening.
I had a question though: how many amps is the BMS on your battery, and do you run with a single battery or duals?
Sounds awesome 👍
Im running single battery setup. I have a spare one too. The left one in picture is my main battery. My custom design lockable downtube battery. BMS is 120A continous and 400A burst.
120A continuous and 400a burst? Color me jealous! My small batteries are 30A and my larger batteries are only 40A! My UPP 52V 40A battery is in the same case as yours on the right, which is problematic because 2400W @ 52V is 46.15 amps, and that makes me a bit uncomfortable putting that much stress on a single battery. Today I did try it with the one battery, and it did supply a peak of 50A, but still not comforting. I'm thinking I might pull the power back down because I was riding with traffic (it does 34mph easy now), but the cable to the motor got warm. I would leave both batteries in which gives me 80A to play with, but I pick up our 10 year old from the bus, and have to pull off the rack battery to bolt on the seat.
Yes. The design inputs for the battery was to have very robust lockable downtube battery that has very low internal resistance (higher controller output power, high efficiency, higher practical capacity), supports high amp charging, fits the bike style.
Battery casing (Lexan) I have tested with 9mm 🙂
VERY nice!