That's a lot of orange, even on the mirrors and headlight. Looks nice.
I just realized that "naranja" means "orange". That's probably not a coincidence, right?

Does it still have that New Bike Smell?

QuoteI am disappointed to find that I may not be able to use the front basket because it is obstructing the wiring harness. I have to find a way to route it through the basket and the only way I can think of doing that is to remove everything from the handlebars.

Really? All of the baskets look to be fairly open in terms of space between the bars.
Or do you mean removing everything only for as long as it takes to reroute them through the basket bars?

I ended up buying the LCD Display upgrade for my RadExpand 5. I forget what wheel diameter it was set up for out of the box, but it was wrong.

I had changed it to the nominal 20", even though a 20" is what it measures about halfway between the rim and the tread. The axle to floor radius with nobody sitting on it is close to 11", which comes to approximately 22" diameter.

Today I found a straight level stretch of road, and when the GPS-based speedometer app was reporting 30 kph, the bike's display was showing between 27.2 to 28 kph. It kept changing, so it was hard to get a steady reading. The trip distance on the app was 1.02 km, versus 0.9 km on the bike display.

I stopped and changed the setting in the menu, from 20" to 22". Not surprisingly, the speedometer then indicated 36.7(ish) when the GPS speedometer app indicated 36 kph. I didn't want to reset the trip distance at that time, because reasons.
Next time, I'll compare the trip distances over, say, 10 km and see how close they are to each other.

At any rate, it appears that the most accurate speedometer & odometer setting is to have it agree with the measured axle height x 2.

This would make far more sense if you could dial in an arbitrary number for the diameter, say, to the nearest centimetre. As it is, there are only a limited number of diameters to choose from in the menu.

I have taken a regular bike to Blaine,WA before and it's quite an enjoyable ride. A family member has a trailer there. I normally take the truck crossing because it's less busy.

Thinking out loud since your US bike are 750W. There is a possibility that a person can cross the border and sell it to the Canadians. Therefore the border services may require a proof that you leave Canada with all your equipment.

Word of warning. The George Massey tunnel does not allow cyclists but there is a shuttle that could take across. Check their schedules.

Richmond and Surrey are two places where you can cheat and take the LRT (Skytrain) all the way to downtown Vancouver.

I would suggest downloading Lower Mainland's bike paths.

For stuff like this I'd just bite the bullet and go to suppliers that do it regularly for this model and get the items that fit, and work and suck it up.

Since you're in the lower mainland, a quick hop across the border might help you out but I'd just as soon ship it and save the time personally. Before you go replacing everything I'd make sure the outputs from the controller are working as expected, it's just an electrical circuit, so I'd make sure I'm getting voltage and amperages as expected and signal wires are doing what they should be.  You may have a brake cable cutting power, or no power to the motor, or something like that that'll trip up any new controller and motor combo.

I haven't looked for a diagram myself (haven't needed to fortunately!) but I'd start there with an multimeter and a coffee.

Let me know how it goes, I'm keen for the controller and motor upgrade myself when the time comes.

So I never did stud my tires in the end. Aside from the couple of really icy days we had here the knobbies made it through the winter with few issues. The big footprint and more rigid yet compliant tires improved the ride too vs the stock tires.

I am back on the stock front tire again and it's amazing what a difference the tires do make for ease of rolling. I should weigh the tires to get a true sense of the weight difference but the rolling difference is massive. It's worth a whole PAS just for the front tire.

Radmini 4 intermittent power loss. I solved by replacing the 4 into 1 harness from controller to handlebar. It was faulty at the 1 to 4 join.

Any other component on the bike would let out the magic smoke if it pulled that much power. I suspect that to save on extra components in the controller the wattage displayed is just software showing what the controller is programmed to output rather than the actual current draw of the motor.

In most of the posts that I have read about sudden power loss on E-Bikes the whole bike shuts down so the owners of those bikes never get to see what I am seeing.

You should look for it in your local dealer shop; if not available there, then go for online stores.

Last winter when I hopped onto my bike. It felt big for me but fortunately I was wrong. I was able to raise the seat so that it is comfortable pedalling without feeling I'm not able to touch the ground.

I am disappointed to find that I may not be able to use the front basket because it is obstructing the wiring harness. I have to find a way to route it through the basket and the only way I can think of doing that is to remove everything from the handlebars.

I did not have time to test it on real hill climb but so far I am satisfied with my purchase. It was a long wait but I am happy.

Thanks Ya, no one plans on an accident... they just happen. I will be cruising around Vancouver, planning to take my time and really don't think anyone will hassle me but gotta ask. Say, are those bikes in your post all Red Green inventions?