The Rover 6Plus US controller is available for purchase. The cost is $159. Keep in mind, the High Step model and the Step Thru model controllers are different part numbers. So you will need to order the right one.

In fact, the Canadian controllers are different part numbers than the US version. And the EU part numbers are different as well.

I don't know what the difference is, or if there is any. I think the lower speeds dictated by Canada and the EU are controlled by the display. Just guessing on that.

30 psi helps with flats due to pinched tubes after hitting a pothole. But at 30 psi, there isn't as much cushion from the tires, so it's a rougher ride.

Going down to 20psi is perfectly fine, but expect more frequent flats and less mileage out of a battery charge. You will experience a slightly smoother ride.

Error 30 is an abnormal communication that could be caused by a number of things. Unplug the throttle to see if that fixes it. If not, then unplug each brake wire. Then try the PAS sensor. Unplug motor and display to be sure the connections are seated. While apart inspect the pins to be sure they are straight.

Ultimately Rad suggests replacing the controller and wiring harness first, then the display. But they also warn that the new controller could become corrupted by whatever the original issue was. So it may be prudent to replace controller, wiring and display all at once.

Confused? Understandable. Error 30 could be caused by so many things.

If you have any plans to travel to the DC/Baltimore area, midatlanticebikerepair.com has most of the Rad models to test ride, including the Runner Plus and Wagon 4.

I second the suggestion to check the headset. Since the bike was shipped with the headset apart, whoever built the bike may not have tightened everything up well.

Another common problem is the head tube not being pushed all the way up before tightening. This will create flex/movement in the headset area while riding.

Seldom have I seen a Rad bike delivered where the spokes are overly loose. On occasion they may be shipped loose enough to cause a clicking sound when riding, but not loose enough to cause a wobble.

Lastly, check the front wheel to be sure it is installed correctly and tight to the forks. I have heard multiple complaints about a wobbly from end, only to find the front wheel was not secured properly and ready to fall off.

Discontinued in the US. I know their outposts still have quite a few in stock. Check with Rad to see if they can hunt one down for you.

Sounds like you are referring to the large basket. If that's the case, the large basket is designed to have the long end go side to side. You probably installed the long end front to back.

Personally I wouldn't cut it. I would try to design some flat bar pieces to move the basket back a few inches to clear the seat. Or to state the fairly obvious, rotate the basket so the long ends go side to side like it was intended.

In the standard position, the bars are 34-1/2" with the front wheel off. If you loosen the handlebars and rotate them down, they are 31".

Though it's true the original Runner is one speed, the new Runner plus has the traditional 7 speeds offered on other Rad bikes. In addition, the plus model has the bench seat in back as a standard item. And of course the improved display and clear plastic skirt around the rear wheel to keep water hitting your legs.

The mini is a great bike, but it's very different than a Runner. The only thing they have in common is that they cater to shorter riders.

Rad is the largest ebike manufacturer in the US. They are heavily funded and doing extremely well. In my opinion, they will be more apt to have parts available than the other smaller ebike manufacturers. And no other manufacturer has the number of repair facilities that Rad has.

Maybe Rad isn't for you, but it's not because of their customer service.

It could be a number of things, but likely not the motor.

First, test the buttons on the remote. That's the box near the left grip with the orange button that turns the bike on. See if all the buttons feel free when you push them in. If you feel friction on any of the buttons, you can pry the faceplate off, realign the buttons in their slots and press the faceplate back on. In addition, press the orange button for a couple of seconds and see if the bike will turn on.

I know you checked all the connections, but pull apart the connections from the remote to the display, as well as the display to the wiring harness. Note the rib inside one of the connectors. Make sure it is properly aligned with the slot in the other connector. And humor me, make sure all the pins are straight and not broken off.

It could be a malfunctioning battery tray, but that doesn't happen that often. As well as the wiring harness. They do go bad occasionally, but not often.

Lastly, it could be the controller. Rad will probably start by sending you a display and remote. If that doesn't work, they will probably move on to the controller and wiring harness.

Just for kicks, unplug the headlight wire, unplug the taillight wire near the seat, and both power wires from the left and right brake assemblies. See if it will turn on. I doubt it's those things, but it can't hurt to try.

Press the battery level button on your battery to see if the battery is charged.

I know you stated that you checked all the connections. But did you actually look at each pin in the connectors? Sometimes during assembly, customers may bend a pin, which would create an issue with the bike turning on.

If everything is ok, unplug the two brake wires, taillight and headlight wires. See if the bike will turn on. Report back.

I suspect DC is well represented. Have you looked on the dreaded Facebook for a group? I'll bet you can find something there.

12mm, 1.25 pitch

PAS 1 is pretty gentle for most people. Maybe she needs to lower it to PAS 0 and get started with just her legs. Then once going, switch back to 1.

There is no way to adjust the PAS levels.

Maybe search online for a used one. Facebook, Craigslist, possibly even eBay.