I suggest replacing the throttle first. They are cheap to replace.

From the sound of it, I think you may have a controller issue. Especially since it doesn't happen until you ride a while. The controller is probably heating up and causing issues.

It seems like most Mini's have the rear wheel clacking. In almost all cases it's the spoke tension. Thankfully spokes are easy to tighten.

There are a lot of reasons why any Rad bike has cut off issues. But the early shipments of the Rover 6 Plus had a rash of issues with the left brake lever. Rad was proactive and replaced the levers without any questions asked.

The wire coming off each brake lever is there solely to activate the rear brake light. So unplugging the wire has no affect on the bike other than losing the brake light. If after unplugging both levers, your problem persists, there are a number of things to check.

1. Every bike starts cutting on and off when the bike reaches 21mph. That's the normal function of a class two ebike. Speed is metered due to government regulations.

2. The PAS sensor and magnet ring on older Rad bikes are mounted on the crank. It's exposed to the elements. Often you will find the magnet ring coated with chain lube and dirt if someone over oils their chain. The simple fix is the clean the magnet ring and sensor. And make sure they are aligned properly.

On the new Rover 6plus and the City 5plus, the sensor and magnet ring are inside the crank. So more than likely they stay clean unless you spend a lot of time doing stream crossings. With these two bikes, it's a good idea to check the connection where the PAS sensor plugs up to the controller. In fact, I would unplug all the wires to the controller , inspect the pins for straightness and clean out debris. Then plug them back together.

3. The wiring harness could be defective. Inspect the harness to see if it is damaged in any way.

4. The display and/or the selector could be damaged. No way to really tell until you swap it out. If you know someone who has the same bike, borrow their display and selector to see if that corrects the problem.

5. The controller may be bad. If your bike is still in the one year warranty, Rad may choose to send you a new controller.  Controllers are a bear to replace compared to older Rad bikes. The controller is in the frame of the bike and requires very small Allen wrenches and star bits. You may consider having a bike shop install the controller. They will charge you for the install and you will be reimbursed by Rad for the work.

Rad has warehouses in Seattle and the southern east coast. In addition, I think they may be starting to ship from California as well.

Depending on where you live in the US, the bike will ship from the closest warehouse. With that said, as the season heats up, the closest warehouse to you may be out of stock of a particular bike. So your bike is drawn from another warehouse where the bike may be in stock.

In regards to accessories, the same scenario happens. For example, if you live in Florida and the bike is in stock in the east coast warehouse, it will ship from there. But if the accessories are only in stock in Seattle, then Florida has to wait for the accessories to travel across the US from Seattle. That's the reason why you may receive the bike sooner than the accessories. Or receive the accessories sooner than the bike.

Rad uses FedEx ground to ship their bikes. FedEx is all over the board on deliveries. But one thing is universal. FedEx posts a scheduled delivery date when they receive the product from Rad's warehouse. But the actual arrival date is typically updated to a day or two later once the package gets closer to your region. Granted, once in a while they meet their original delivery date, but in most cases they don't.

FedEx often shows a package stuck in a transfer FedEx facility for two or three days. Then all of a sudden the package shows that it's on the other side of the country. Yup, FedEx struggles to show actual movement on some packages. So don't fret if the package shows it's sitting in Spokane for a couple of days. More than likely the scans haven't been updated, but the package is moving right along.

Rad uses UPS for a lot of the accessory shipments. They do seem to be a day or two slower than FedEx.

In Rad's defense, they ship like clock work. It's FedEx and UPS that throw the cog in the wheel when it comes to long delivery times. It's out of Rad's hands once the shipper has the product.

Charge the battery the first three times for 12 hours. After that, charge anytime you want. Every few months do another 12 hour charge to balance the battery. When storing the battery for months at a time, leave the battery at 1/2 to 3/4 charge.

Rad programs their bikes to output lower watts when the battery gets low. I believe most ebikes have that feature. They have this feature to help get you home if the battery is running low.

The factory setting for the Runner 1, Runner 2 and Runner plus is 22". There were some early runners also set at 21". Either size works fine.

Your issue doesn't sound like a motor problem. Motors are dumb, they have no circuit boards. If your motor works with throttle and PAS but not at the same time, that sounds like a controller issue. The controller is the brains of the operation.

I would call Rad again and troubleshoot the problem with them. If they are still telling you it's a motor issue, ask to speak to a higher level of support person. That's crazy that someone told you it's the motor.

Your motor either A. works fine, B. Shows an error 24 on the display, or C. Does not work at all. There is no D option where throttle and PAS don't work together.

Quote from: Jay West on April 22, 2022, 07:34:41 PM
Good luck on getting the motor Radicali. I've been waiting seven(7) months to get a replacement for my Rad City 5 Plus.  Still Waiting.   
My Rad City runs Ok but I can't use the throttle and Pedal together. Crazy but I still like the bike even though I had to change my way of riding it 1500 miles.  I also have a 2018 Rad City Step Thru.

I think your lcd display is bad. Find someone who has a Rad bike, any bike will do. It doesn't have to be your model. Push the bikes together at the handlebars, unscrew the connectors on both bikes and hook their display into your bike. If the battery then registers, you know the display is bad.

If that doesn't fix it, the next step is the controller. But more than likely it's just a display issue.

You do realize all Rad bikes are class 2 ebikes and are restricted to 20mph based on US Federal law?

When you use only the throttle on a Rad bike, once you hit 21mph, power is cut until it reaches 19th. Then the power comes back on until you hit 21 mph again. So Rad bikes and all other brands of class 2 ebikes are constantly cutting on and off once it reaches the maximum speed allowed by law.

The comfort seat is very noisy. I don't suggest anyone buy it. Cloud 9 (https://amzn.to/3ljButH) products on Amazon are far superior comfort wise and make no noise.

Sorry to hear you bought it. There is nothing you can do to get rid of the squeaking.

The racks Rad sells on it's website are made by Hollywood Racks out of LA. They are not rebranded, they have the Hollywood Racks Logo.

Rad sells a couple of different Hollywood  racks. One in particular is made to fit just about any length ebike. Check with Rad or Hollywood to see which model that is.

I have that rack and transport my wagon with running boards all the time. I don't have any issues. But if you do, Hollywood sells small U shaped brackets that when bolted in place, decrease the wheel size the rack will accept. Basically it makes the wheel ride a bit higher on the rack.

Those brackets were made to accommodate Rad's smaller wheel sized bikes like the mini, runner and expand models. Without that bracket, the smaller wheels sink down in the rack and the derailleur rubs on the rack.

Check to see if tire pressure is at 30lbs. Check the headset to be sure it's tight. That will cause a wobble.

Rad never replaces bikes with a reconditioned bike, ever. They are pretty strict about that.

When they get the 14 day test ride bikes back, they reassemble them and test ride them quite a bit. If anything is off with the bike, they strip it down and use the parts off of it. Then cut up the frame.

When they sell a 14 day return bike, they call them garage sale bikes. The customer knowingly buys a garage sale bike at a good discount and knows it's a return bike. But they also know that Rad has gone through it. And of course the bike comes with the normal
One year warranty.

I'll repeat it again, Rad never gives a customer a return bike without them knowing it's a return bike.

Yes, I agree. It could be loose spokes. But it could also be a loose headset. Pick the front end up and shake the handlebars back and forth very quickly. Listen for the clicking sound. Customers are famous for not tightening their headsets properly.

In looking for aftermarket pads for the Rover 6plus and City 5plus, search Avid Elixir brake pads. Amazon has lots of options. (https://amzn.to/3yJQmJU)

Try unplugging the taillight, the headlight and both brake lever wires. If that fixes the issue, start plugging everything in, one by one to determine the bad connection. I suspect you may have damaged the taillight wire.

I suppose it's possible that you damaged the wiring harness if it got pulled hard in the incident. But that is kind of doubtful.