I am not going to elaborate, but the continued failure of the majority of the controllers are those mounting screws. Take them out!

If you have a high step, the controller is located in the top of the frame near the steering colum. You will need small torx bits. Here are the steps:

1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the top two screws holding the large silver plate behind the battery.
3. Leave the key in the lock and remove the two screws holding the lock mechanism. Pull the key out and pull the lock assembly out. You will need to pull that silver tray behind the battery a little for the lock to come out.
4. Remove the top two screws at the top of the plastic cable channel on the underside of the bike.
5. Bend the cable channel out a little at the top to expose the two screws holding the controller in. Remove those screws.
6. Put the screws back in the plastic cable channel and tighten them up.
7. Gently pull one of the wires leading to the controller. The controller should slide down. Use a little foam to lodge the controller back into the crevice.
8. Reinstall the lock mechanism and the silver bracket behind the battery. Reinstall the battery. You are done!

For step thru?s the controller is below the battery:

Remove the two bottom screws holding the plastic cable channel on the underside of the bike. Bend it back a little which will expose the two screws holding the controller in. Take them out. Reinstall the two screws that attach the plastic cable channel and you are done.

I know this is an old post, but I will answer in case anyone else has the issue.

Keeping the battery charger plugged in all the time reduces its life. Always unplug it after use. Besides that, you risk blowing a fuse in the battery if you plug the charger into the battery while it?s plugged into the wall. Rad advises to always plug into the battery, then plug into the wall.

A battery not charging when you have a red and green light lit up on the charger is probably a blown 5amp fuse in the battery. They are simple to replace at home.

Mission batteries can only be used in the Mission. On the flip side, the higher amp hour batteries in the other model Rad bikes that don?t use the semi integrated battery like the Expand 5 will work in the Mission.

Most of the fuse issues on City 5+ and Rover 6+ is human error. Owners keep using a key to pry open the charge port. The key comes in contact with the port and zaps the battery.

If you replaced the controller, it?s possible you didn?t push all the plugs together properly. You need to undo the battery plug, motor plug and the plug near the pedals that leads to the wiring harness, up to the handlebars. And push them firmly together again.

After that, the next step is to look at the display and remote. Make sure they are inserted well.

There has been a few City 5+?s where the Pedal Assist Sensor was bad and frying the controller. You could keep putting new controllers in and still fry every one of them.

Disconnect the gold ended PAS wire under the pedals and also disconnect the blue ended wire going to the taillight. See if that helps as well.

The longer wires on the controller are for the high step City. They sent you the wrong controller.

With that said, the City controllers are interchangeable. Just wrap up the excess wire and zip tie it to the up frame member next to the pedals.

Not a big deal and no sense trying to get the correct controller.

Rad does not sell the part separately. You have to buy a new remote. Check Etsy.

Running two standard Rad headlights is no issue. It works fine and both bulbs are full brightness.

You can find a cable splitter on Amazon to make the modification easy.

With that said, it?s far better to buy a rechargeable headlight on Amazon. Much brighter.

The fix is to not screw the controller back into the frame of the bike. If you have a step Thru, just slide the controller into the frame and leave it loose.

If you have a high step, use some foam packing to lodge the controller into the crevice. Not using foam on a high step causes the controller to rattle around as you ride.

Under no circumstances should you use the controller attachment screws on Rover 6+ and City 5+, steps thru and high step bikes.

The Rover 6+ is a great bike. The controller just doesn?t do well when mounted to the frame. Correct that and you will love the bike.

Other than the special tool to loosen the cassette, nothing else is needed.

I'm curious why you would want to replace the stock 750 watt Rover motor (Bafang) with another 750 watt Bafang motor? The only Rad bike with a 500 watt motor is the Mission.

Jeff - Either City 5+ model (Step thru or high step) will fit you. Both models have an adjustable handlebar, allowing you to increase the height an inch or two. You will need to buy a 400mm seatpost so you can raise the seat high enough to suit your long legs.  They are around $12 on Amazon.

Since you didn?t mention it, can I assume you aren?t getting an error message?

The City 5 Plus Step Thru has experienced a large failure rate on the controllers. Rad has worked to fix the issue with a new batch of controllers. That seems to fix things.

I would try to find someone in your area who has your same model bike and mate the two. While the bikes are side by side, plug your motor into the other good bike. Turn the throttle on the good bike to see if your motor spins. If so, then you know your motor is good.

Next plug their display into your bike. You can accomplish that by putting the bikes head to head. See if the display corrects the issue.

If not, it more than likely is a wiring harness issue or controller. Rad typically sends both out to you to replace under warranty.

Rad has a good video on how to replace the controller. It?s not an easy job to do, but is possible for someone that is mechanically inclined. It requires a star bit that is at least 3? long. That is really the only specialty tool needed for the job. The rest of the tools needed are standard Allen wrenches.

6' tall and have both the City 5 plus ST and Rover 6 plus ST. I have no issues with seat height on my step through models. Even if I did, there are plenty of longer seat posts for sale. High step frames suck.

50Lbs is what Rad suggests. You can go lower , but you run the risk of getting a flat from a pinched tube after hitting a pothole. Just run 50 and deal with the harsher ride.

Yes, Rad makes a great product, but the comfort seat sucks. It's only mildly better than the stock seat and the noise from the spring will drive you insane. Cloud 9 seats from Amazon are far superior. You will never want another seat.

Now the big drawback with Cloud 9 is they have so many different models. It's hard to choose what you need.

I know it seems difficult to replace the cable housing, but it really is very easy. I can swap a housing out in about 10 minutes. But I have done it a few times. You can buy long lengths of housing and cut it to whatever length you need.

Tape a string to the original housing and pull it through the frame. Measure up the old housing to the new housing and cut to the desired length. Then tape the new housing to the string and pull it through. Running the new cable through the housing is a breeze. But it will get stuck at the end of the housing. So you need to work it a little bit to pop through the housing.

The only tough part is cutting the housing to the length needed. The housing is made of a steel braided line. It can't be cut with normal lineman's pliers. Or even a hacksaw. You need special cutting pliers to cleanly cut the cable. Park Tool has an awesome tool for that.

Good luck!