Sorry to derail the thread but just curious.  What controller / motor did you upgrade to? Did you lace in or did you find a drop in compatible?

Quote from: Rad_Ray on November 08, 2021, 06:03:59 AM
Is there a way to mount the light to the front rack on the RR+?

It's possible to do but much easier to do if you modify how it's mounted. I've seen most headlights on RRunner+ with the front rack moved to alternate locations like around the handlebars like a headlight on a motorcycle or use an aftermarket mounting bracket to attach to the front of the rack if you're down with that.

Quote from: buster on November 10, 2021, 07:03:27 AM
Even though Rad saids they are not comparable can anyone see any reason why I can't put my Rad Runner 14 amp battery on my Rad mission bike to give me longer range.  They have the exact mounting tabs and electrical plug and both are 48 volt batteries .  Only difference is a extra row of cells for more capacity .

Perhaps the "not compatible" warning is just a CYA precaution in case something gets messed up. I'm sure someone with more electrical knowledge would be able to give some insights.

Quote from: Altema on September 26, 2021, 06:51:01 PM
JoseM beat me to it 😁, but I'm posting this as a conversion because it required some changes to the bike. The setup just before this was a Phaserunner controller, Tesla batteries, and a 750 watt "upgrade" motor. The bike was at the place where I was happy with the performance, control, and range. So what was the problem? The motor was the weak link in the system. The batteries are great, the controller will handle up to 7000 watts, but the motor itself was at it's limit and I had to be careful. The new motor is a Bafang RM C062.1000.D 06, and produces more torque at the same power levels, without stressing itself.

There were two major things to overcome. One is that the motor casing was different, which required the wheel be disassembled and re-laced. The second is that, in my case, the connector was different. They do have the Julet connector available (same as Rad uses), but mine has the L1019 connector which screws together. I could have cut up my custom harness, but decided to just order the part which made it ALMOST plug and play 😂

The bigger deal was getting the new motor casing laced into the wheel, and after having some difficulty fitting it into my schedule, I decided to do it myself.

I took measurements after the tire was off, and recorded the spacing of the brake rotor on one side, and the inside of the spoke flange on the other. I loosened the spokes in steps to prevent the rim from being pulled out of round, then removed the spoke in pairs (photo 1) and my assistant put them on the new motor. Then came putting the spokes back onto the rim, and once I recognized the over/under pattern, it was pretty easy. I installed the spoke nipples with two threads showing on each spoke, then systematically began tightening them up. After that I put the brake rotor back on (photo 2), then mounted the wheel on the upside-down bike to "true" the wheel. With a cable tie on the fender brace, I cut the cable tie so it was almost touching the rim (photo 3). First came centering the wheel vertically in relationship to the axle centerline (I don't want to be bouncing up and down!), then making sure the rim is "round". The last step is adjusting for any left to right variations, and once that was done, I re-installed the rim liner, tire, Tannus Armour liner, and the tube. When I mounted the wheel on the bike for the final time, I used an additional torque washer on the outside of the left, and gently applied rotational pressure to the axle when tightening the nuts, in the direction the axle would naturally go when the motor torque is applied. If anyone would like a more detailed description of why I did this, let me know.

For the electrical side (and this is different because of the Phaserunner), I took off the old motor connections, and installed the new section between the controller and motor which consists of the three phase wires, the hall sensor wires, and connections for speed and motor temperature. The motor cable comes out of the left side instead of the right, and goes between the frame and the brake rotor (photo 4), so you'll need a cable tie to keep the rotor from damaging it. My cable had a big unprotected section where the wires go to the three different connectors, so I had to be creative with the shrink tubing to protect it. With the wiring done, you have to program the Phaserunner for the new motor. This motor is oriented the opposite way from the Rad and Bolton motors (to allow the cable on the other side), but there's a setting to handle that. I loaded the parameters for the "Bafang G60 Fat" motor into the Phaserunner setup program on my laptop, then ran "Autotune" before making any other adjustments.

On the first test ride with the same power levels as the old motor, the extra torque was obvious. Even in class 2 economy mode, the bike felt perky and satisfying. I could feel it in class 3 and unlimited modes as well. So, I'm a happy camper, and I don't have to worry about pushing the motor too hard to get the results. Again, let me know if you have any questions!

Thank you for this rundown. I've been exploring the motor upgrade options now that I'm happy with my 35A controller and all the step-by-step tutorial videos and such are geared toward RadRover.  I'm realizing that I'll either have to find a 1000w motor pre-laced with a 20" rim or do the lacing myself (which feels daunting since I've never really messed with spokes) since the chatter on "drop-in" upgrades for the RadRunner Plus are either not compatible since they spin the wrong direction or the casing is different.

I've been debating on just reaching out to the moped-style performance ebikes like Ariel Rider/Juiced/Super73 that use a more powerful motor (1000w-1500w) and 20" rim to see if they will just sell me one. I'm doubting they would with inventory shortages and costs.

Trying to make an informed choice so this helps, thanks!

I've seen plenty of Amazon offering all different ends

https://amzn.to/3CFijB0

Quote from: XplsvAmnesia on October 14, 2021, 02:04:40 PM
Thanks, comically that reddit post is from me haha. The consensus does seem like the motor is causing drag at around 25mph

Hah, /facepalm!

Seems kind of silly for the motor to actively prevent a rider from going "too fast".

Quote from: XplsvAmnesia on September 28, 2021, 10:05:26 AM
Just got my RR+ yesterday, built it myself. I rode into work today and even on a downhill with pedaling I couldnt break 25mph. This is my first E-bike I wasn't sure if the motor creates drag, or my other thought being that maybe the brakes are maintaining light contact with the rotors. Thoughts?

I can't find it now but I was reading a thread the other day (either here or on reddit) that was talking about the motor drag while going downhill to prevent the bike from going too fast. Sorry, can't find it but it sounds like what you are experiencing.

Edit: Found the reddit post - https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/q6bc4v/radrunner_drag_on_downhills/

Quote from: mtngrl on October 12, 2021, 05:06:39 PM
Thanks for the reply Sirch. I get that Rad doesn't want to take on any liability. I was just hoping they could let me know what the diameter spec's were for the handlebars, both at the stem and at the end where the throttle would go. Anyhow, quick question re: the handlebars you are looking at: I have the RR+, with the display mounted on the crossbar. Are you looking at these bars for the standard RR or the Plus? If the RR+, would the display just be mounted at an angle?

From what I saw the display was mounted right in the middle straddling the headset/handlebar connection point. Reddit user xavierfg has some pictures here ( https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/pup6jg/wired_up_my_handlebar_switches_for_turn_signals/ ) It's kinda hard to see since it's a picture highlighting the headlights/turn signals that he added on but you can pretty much make it out.

Quote from: mtngrl on October 10, 2021, 05:50:33 PM
OK, so I have given the runner many many months and miles and I honestly cannot stand (i.e. hate) the handlebars. They are much too high for me and way too close (and yes, I tried pivoting them away from me). I am finding it difficult to find a suitable alternative that will work with the Rad stem and have the correct diameter for the throttle and have a crossbar for the display. Rad's less than helpful response was to return the bike as it is "clearly not suited to me". This is not an option as I am past the return period, which I am sure the customer service rep knew. Their customer service was awesome during the initial purchase and when FedEx damaged the bike, but much less than helpful now. I am sure there must be a solution that doesn't require selling the bike and purchasing something else. Any suggestions greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Legally speaking Rad won't offer alternative solutions since it makes them liable if you damage your bike or yourself with aftermarket parts. So you can't fault them for not being able to be very helpful.

I still have the standard handlebars but I've been looking into more of a cafe racer handlebar style and I've seen other RadRunner owners use these handlebars and love them.  They won't move the bars away from where you are sitting but they will definitely lower them.

https://amzn.to/2XNboHB

https://amzn.to/3mflRom

Quote from: Altema on October 11, 2021, 11:19:06 AM

Quote from: Sirch on October 11, 2021, 07:53:27 AM

Quote from: Altema on October 10, 2021, 12:58:07 PM
The Rad Runner PLUS has a left side cable exit, and I believe is the only RAD that has a similar housing to allow drop in of the 1000W motor. Other bikes like the Mini and Rover have the motor cable exit on the right side, and you can't use the original housing. We still don't know what controller he's using, but it apparently does not allow to control which direction the motor spins.

For me, I just laced the new motor into my RadMini wheel, and selected reverse rotation during the motor tuning session, and set the peak power to 2000 watts.

Still confused, especially about the pricing.  Bolton has the 1000w at $300 and EBW has the 750w at $263 (didn't see a 1000w with them) and eunorau sells the 1000w for $220.

And this 1000w is able to be just dropped in the RR+ with the original housing?  I've seen other videos of RadRovers getting dropped in as well.

Which controller are you using?  I was eyeing the Electro Bike World 35a controller with KT-LCD8H Color.

This is the motor I have in the bike right now, but the main connector on th ebike had to be changed: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001314078195.html
They do sell the Julet connector version, which is what Rad uses, so that would be far easier.
I'm really not sure about the "drop in" status for the RR+, as the wires are all hanging out in his video, and it doesn't show it actually installed.
I've used the Electro Bike World 35a controller (same one Bolton sells) in the past, and it's a good unit.

I'm currently using a 96a Phaserunner controller with dual 52v Tesla batteries.

Sweet, thank you for your response!  I ordered the controller, guess I'll worry about the motor later.

Quote from: Altema on October 10, 2021, 12:58:07 PM
The Rad Runner PLUS has a left side cable exit, and I believe is the only RAD that has a similar housing to allow drop in of the 1000W motor. Other bikes like the Mini and Rover have the motor cable exit on the right side, and you can't use the original housing. We still don't know what controller he's using, but it apparently does not allow to control which direction the motor spins.

For me, I just laced the new motor into my RadMini wheel, and selected reverse rotation during the motor tuning session, and set the peak power to 2000 watts.

Still confused, especially about the pricing.  Bolton has the 1000w at $300 and EBW has the 750w at $263 (didn't see a 1000w with them) and eunorau sells the 1000w for $220.

And this 1000w is able to be just dropped in the RR+ with the original housing?  I've seen other videos of RadRovers getting dropped in as well.

Which controller are you using?  I was eyeing the Electro Bike World 35a controller with KT-LCD8H Color. 

Thank you for this post, it's good info. 

I'm a bit confused though.  Eunorau prices this 1000w motor for less than I can find most 750w on sites like bolton or electrobike so I'm weary. 

Also, the 1000w from bolton ( https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motors-and-kits/products/copy-of-1000-watt-bafang-fat-bike-hub-motor ) says that it's "Not a drop-in replacement for 750W or less motors. Requires lacing into spokes." but from what I can see from your video it's able to be dropped in with the stock casing.

I'm thinking about doing the motor upgrade but I sure don't want to buy like 4 motors like you did trying to get it to work!