Quote from: AzRadtrek on September 09, 2020, 09:44:44 AM
Hi there,

Congratulations on the 200 miles in two weeks.  That is great.  Were you a bicycle rider before or did the e-bike get you out?

It was both actually. I used to be a frequent rider a long time ago, but stopped after an incident left me with screws and metal plate holding my leg together. Then my knees wore out and it became painful to pedal even a block. I'd given up, but the e-bike got me back out again and I get stronger each day. My legs are doing better, but now it's OTHER parts that hurt and I need a softer seat!

Rad bike are overbuilt, so I have no doubt the frame would be fine. My concern would be the seat post and seat. You are rather tall, and the higher the seat is, the less weight the post and seat tube will handle. I also do not know what the limit is for the seat itself or the quick release clamp that holds things up. I would contact Rad directly and ask what the seat limit is, and ask for their recommendations.

Once you do get out and about on your Radwagon, I'm sure you'll see results. Being an e-bike, it encourages you to work harder and go further. I got the best workout in ten years when I got my Rad bike, and it felt good.

Quote from: breesband@yahoo.com on August 04, 2020, 07:11:27 PM
Hi, I recently received my Rad Mini 4, I love everything about it except that the folding joint makes small noises and is not completely solid no matter how tight i tighten it.  Anyone else have this issue or is it just the way the bike is.  I was thinking of putting something in the joint so it's tighter or maybe to help it not move.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

If it's a creaking sound, then a couple of drops of oil on the hinge will take care of it.

That's the way I would do it as well. You could technically run them in parallel since both battery packs are the same voltage. They balance out as they drain, but I think I would prefer they way you have it.

Great list Ryan! Are you trying to feed our addiction? Lol. My problem has been every accessory I wanted is unavailable from Rad, so I had to look for alternatives. Most important was a rack so I didn't really have a choice. I went with a West Biking "almost universal" rack, and it fits the RadMini 4 fine. It clamps to the seat post and has adjustable supports, but I made some custom one-piece supports for improved strength. It will firmly support 200 pounds now in it's modified form, but I have NO plans on doing that! It just carries my rack bag with tool, lock, and a light jacket, all of which weigh about 6 pounds.

My current necessities/accessories are:
Roam bike helmet with visor, goggles, and taillight.
West Biking rack mentioned above.
Zfal universal bottle holder, which works nicely on the handlebar riser for the RadMini which has NO bosses! Anywhere!
12 Oz one-handed Thermos which happens to fit the bottle holder.
Nit Ize Wraptor cellphone mount.
Bell two stage folding tire pump.
Bell large U-lock with cable extension (No theft warranty on e-bikes!).
Master level 5 cable lock for quick stops (restroom stops, coffee, etc.).
Sahoo 8 liter rack bag (love it!).
Satori Harmony suspension seat post.

I also got the Hafny small end mirror, but it was terribly distorted and I returned it for a refund.

The headlight upgrade was something I wanted after the first night ride. The stock light is nice and bright enough, but the beam pattern is too small. I purchased the Nitecore BR35 which can function and a lowbeam/highbeam headlight with a remote switch, but there is no part of the handlebars which is straight. So, I ordered a handlebar extender for acessories.

Quote from: Graysco242 on August 18, 2020, 07:28:48 AM
Accidentally sprayed g.t. 85 on to my brake calipers on my radrhino getting a terrible like crunching noise when i brake now. Will this go in time or have i done any dammage grateful for replys.

You may want to remove the wheel and brake pads, and clean the brake disc and pads with automotive brake cleaner. That should fix the noise and restore your braking power.

203 when I got home, actually, but it's been great fun. Today was my longest single ride, and probably the most difficult. 32 miles over hilly paths, dirt, gravel, grass, and the occasional unwanted mud and muck. Unlike my previous ride where I didn't touch the throttle for twenty miles, I used the throttle whenever I needed it this time, and gave myself a break from pedaling when I felt like it. Considering the usage and terrain, 32 miles is not bad, and the last battery bar was blinking as I approached home at 15 mph on throttle only.

Only issues was a momentary clicking which I believe was a spoke, and a strange sound like a kitten mewing and singing. At first I thought it was the controller, but it seems like it was a ringing vibration of the front fender support or brake disc. It stopped after a mile, but I'll investigate later.

Still loving the bike and making new friends, and I think I've "sold" two Rad bikes so far to people who had lots of questions.

I have not used it myself, but it does look like it would foil most casual thieves. A large pair of angle-tip needle nose pliers might defeat it, but it's unlikely a typical spur-of-the-moment wheel thief would have those with them.

With the power off, I'd hold each wheel off the ground and spin it by hand to see if the pads are dragging. Sometimes shops forget to back out the inner adjuster when replacing the pads.

If it makes the noise without the battery, then I would suspect the reduction gears inside the hub motor. Contact Rad support and suggest it might be the gears, and they can confirm or work towards finding the actual cause.

Is it a sharp crackling sound, like coins being grinded?

If you do need to center the brake caliper over the disc, then Ryan's method is excellent. To compensate for wear, there are three adjustment points that you can use on Rad bikes. One is the inside pad, and this should be adjusted until the inside pad is almost touching the disc. Remember that the adjuster has six detents or "notches" as you turn it (you will feel them), and you should make sure the final position is in one of these detents so the adjuster holds it's position.

For the outside pad (the only pad the moves), you can use the barrel adjuster on the brake lever, or the other one down by the caliper. I prefer to adjust the one by the caliper, which leaves me free to adjust the easier top one on the road if needed.

Nice version of an auxiliary tank! Do you power down the display before flipping the switch?

You can remove the motor components without removing or unlacing the outer casing.

Under rack and the rack upright look like nice choices. I tried keeping mine on top of the rack with bungee cords, but it came loose twice. I bought a rack bag and a smaller lock for general use (like restroom stops), and just take the big lock when I feel it will be needed. They both fit in the bag, but that U-lock and cable are heavy!