I assume your goal is increased range, as that would be the only benefit. I never tried a 52v battery with the stock controller because I didn't want to damage it. If it does work, there won't be any performance gains aside from range. Increasing range by going to a 17AH 48V battery is a less troublesome approach.

The Bafang G062 is the way to go. Mine is tame compared to JTK77's, but it's a folding bike with only 28lbs of weight on the front wheel. I ride with gas mopeds and it's faster than 80% of them, and it's pretty dominant in electric group rides as well. A sample ride is linked below, though it's been faster than this.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jH7aQos6Yf9D1tvY7

If I recall correctly, the RR6 battery uses active balancing, instead of passive balancing requiring the 12 hour cycle like the earlier batteries.

The Dutch don't wear helmets because they have real bike infrastructure and bikes are a part of their city planning. We don't have that in the US.

For the record, I have been in three accidents with a head impact. Two of them would have been fatal without a helmet.

The Rad motor will handle 1600 watts easy, and has more low end torque than the Bolton motor. But if you want a bit more speed, swap it out.

For steps with a complete motor core with the magnet housing and gears: take the wheel off the bike, remove the freewheel with the special tool, remove the Torx screws holding the motor in the case, put an axle nut on the opposite side to protect the threads, then thump the wheel on a piece of wood to pop the motor free, then remove the axle nut and pull the motor out. Put some lithium grease on the nylon gears and spread it around if it does not already have some. Too much just makes a mess and had no benefit. You'll have to shift the motor back and forth until all the gears mesh and it drops in, and you have to line up the screw holes as well.

Are you looking specifically for a folding bike, or can it be a non-folder?

Quote from: handlebar on October 24, 2022, 03:08:06 PM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on October 24, 2022, 10:11:32 AM

The other solution would be to figure out a way to seal up the enclosure the PCB is inside.  Maybe use a thin bead of RTV around the seams.  Or maybe spray the entire enclosure with the conformal coating linked above.

I have the Bolton upgrade controller on a Radrunner. The first time I used RTV, I left the bottoms of the end pieces unsealed to allow ventilation. It seems a problem may come from mist, which can be drawn up with air. I haven't had trouble since I sealed the bottoms.

Just a quick note that the 35 amp controllers don't need internal ventilation. The power transistors are mounted so they pass their heat to the box which has fins. I have overheated a Bolton motor, but never the controller.

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on October 24, 2022, 03:33:59 PM

Quote from: handlebar on October 24, 2022, 03:08:06 PM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on October 24, 2022, 10:11:32 AM

The other solution would be to figure out a way to seal up the enclosure the PCB is inside.  Maybe use a thin bead of RTV around the seams.  Or maybe spray the entire enclosure with the conformal coating linked above.

I have the Bolton upgrade controller on a Radrunner. The first time I used RTV, I left the bottoms of the end pieces unsealed to allow ventilation. It seems a problem may come from mist, which can be drawn up with air. I haven't had trouble since I sealed the bottoms.

Is there space inside to slip in a small desiccant pack?  Spraying the PCB with conformal coating would also solve that problem.

On the 35 amp controller that Bolton and EBW sell, yes; there is room for a small desiccant pack. I'll post a picture of the internals later, as I have one that is already taken apart.

The Lectric XP 2.0 is a better value for the money. However, the RadRunner Plus has several advantages. The suspension for has more travel, the gears have a wider range, the passenger seat is better, and the motor has a higher nominal rating and 80nm of torque, versus the XP's 55nm. I know the XP motor can peak at 800 watts, but only temporarily. For riders in flat areas, it's not an issue. But if you live in a hilly area, the XP may leave you sitting by the side of the road to cool while the Rad keeps going. I've seen it happen. The frame on the XP is rated for 30 lbs more, but Rad frames are drop tested and meet higher European standards.

The wattage on my original Rad display was always reliable. Same for the display on my 25 and 35 amp controllers. My Phaserunner display is accurate on all eleven PAS levels, but since it has dynamic pedal assist, it provides more power when starting out or going up hills.

They went from two bolts in opposing directions, to a single bolt. Big compromise in my book, and as cool as I think folding BMX bars look, I'd replace the fork with a RadMini fork, and put a turtleneck stem from https://www.davidbrandnew.com/ on there.
Not my company or product, but I have two of them and they are very well made.

Quote from: Rover on October 28, 2022, 04:14:55 PM
I've had Tannus in multiple ebikes. Including both of my current Rads (Rover 6 Plus and City 5 Plus) with original tires. So far so good.

That's good, and I'd expect that from most bikes. I've changed the title to include the term "high speed", as most e-bikes won't find themselves going 30 to 40 mph for long distances.

It's simple math, but yes, the average person will be clueless.
I'd prefer not to cut into factory wiring, but I had no choice with this bike because no one else had done these mods before. I literally had to map out the schematics and make an entire wiring harness from scratch. Hardest circuit I think was having the lights switched on the positive side, but the brake light switched on the negative side, and they used the same feed.

Good observations, and I usually try to find a balance between comfort and efficiency.

Quote from: JimInPT on October 09, 2022, 07:36:17 AM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on October 02, 2022, 01:53:31 PMI "premium" headlight that I got with my RR2 sucks balls for being a "premium" product.

Agreed.  IMHO, every light on every Rad bike is terrible, to the point of being dangerous in my dark rural area.  I was dumb enough to try the "premium" light and kept it only because it looks better than the puny stock light that came with my MiniST2 and as an emergency backup - it's a terrible product for a main headlight, though.

I went with this amazing light; fixed all my problems and I ride with the slow-strobe mode on during the day:  https://amzn.to/3CKoE1f  Lasts a long time and can be popped off easily for recharging, anti-theft or for use as a handheld flashlight that fits into any pocket.

Yes, the stock Rad lights are too dim and too focused. A small lit patch on the ground in front of the wheel is not enough! When my RadMini headlight burned out, I bought a $12 light off of Amazon as a temporary replacement. The Amazon light worked better, so I still have it on there.