Quote from: handlebar on July 15, 2023, 05:56:07 PM
I wanted to start by saying, "12,747 miles? Wow!"

Yeah, I'm impressed as well!

Quote from: DickB on July 05, 2023, 07:29:08 AM
3A is fine for Rad batteries. Standard batteries have 5A charge fuses, and semi-integrated have 10A charge fuses. The Rad BMS will shut down on overcurrent.

Thanks for the correction. I was not sure how the stock Rad batteries would behave in that situation and was just playing it safe

I agree with Suspci, and the symptoms sound like a brake cutoff system. Disconnect both brake sensors from the levers and give it a try. Another way of checking is your brake light: It should come on when you squeeze each of the brake levers. If the brake light stays on when you are not pulling the brake levers, your brake cutoff sensors or their wiring is at fault. If the brake light does not work at all, this will also cause the pedal assist and throttle to not work. Disconnect the taillight to diagnose this. A blown taillight/brakelight makes the controller think the brakes are on.

Quote from: miltondodge315 on July 03, 2023, 10:11:25 PM
Or just go ahead and buy a Urtopia Carbon 1/1s, city cruiser and mountain bike.

Urtopia Carbon 1/1s is a very good choice for $2000-ish carbon fiber ebikes, very light bike body (~35lbs) and stylish design.

Also, use coupon code ZACK650 to receive $650 off MSRP.

https://newurtopia.com/products/urtopia-carbon-e-bike

That's a nice bike, but for this particular use, it's a terrible choice. The motor has half the torque of the Rad, and the frame will shatter with the payload.

54.6 volts is correct for a 48v battery. 3 amps of current is too high for the Rad battery. Although most batteries have a BMS (battery management system) that will reject the extra current, I cannot state that Rad's BMS will do that. It's better not to use this charger on your Rad.

Quote from: handlebar on June 19, 2023, 12:17:50 PM
Before posting, I googled and didn't find anything recent. However, numerous BBB and Yelp reports indicate that they have been disgusting customers for years.

It may have been in 2020 that one of the cofounders left. Shortly after buying my Radrunner in 2020, I became disgusted with the one who remained. Mine didn't perform anything like the ones in the video he made with ebike reviews. I was getting only 500 watts output. That may have corresponded with 750 watts' electrical input, but the bikes demonstrated were vastly more powerful.

The reviewer stated his weight. He said he wasn't pedaling as he passed two staff members who were pedaling on a long hill. I could tell their speed by their cadence. I could tell the grade by the roof line of a house along the road. His motor was putting out more than 2,000 watts, 4 times more than mine. That probably took 3,000 watts' input, or 65 amps or so.

The cofounder then carried him on the back, without pedaling, on similarly steep hills. His controller was probably giving the motor more than 65 amps, while the OEM controller is probably 15 or so. Heat buildup depends on the square of amps. To make the video, they may have had to keep swapping out Radrunners with toasted motors.

The back wheel was vastly overloaded, and the CEO said he had reduced the pressure to 18 psi for a smooth ride. The manual warned riders that it was unsafe to ride with less than the pressure on the sidewall, but they avoided saying what that pressure was. It's 30 psi. He was recommending what his company said was unacceptably dangerous.

Do you have a link to that specific video?

The capped connector is likely your accessory connector. As for the display not working, make sure the connectors to the displays have no broken or bent pins. Either way, if you don't get it working then call Rad support.

Looks like the two most viable options are on the front of the seat tube (will interfere with the step through function a bit), or under the rear rack (will need cable extensions except for the taillight. You can go with the 25 amp controller to place it between the seat tube and the rear fender, and it will greatly improve power, but you'll lose a bit of efficiency.

Quote from: avcomike on June 06, 2023, 02:57:56 PM
I have a RAD mini ST 2018.Looking to change stem/handle bars also. I have found a folding stem on Aliexpress (Litepro folding bike stem) its approx 7" (19 cm) long and extends to approx 19" (28 CM) Folk clamp 28.6 MM,looks like it has one (1) pinch bolt, handle bar clamp 25.1-26.5 mm.  I will use BMX High rise handle bars. Have not ordered yet, as I do not have bike at my home. check it out, my help you.

Another option if that does not work out, is on davidbrandnew.com. His folding stem also extends and he has a matching package with BMX bars, stem, and folding neck.

Pennsylvania did it right. They decided to allow e-bikes in state parks, but instead of a class system, they simply enforce speed limits and basic rules (like must have functional pedals). When asked about it, they said they would rather manage behavior than devices. I think that's a smart move because new bikes come out every week, and the variety is endless. 

Here's how I charge mine!

I spend a good part of my day riding with and on the new Rad trike. After a small group ride, the owner and I installed a new version of the 35amp controller, and it made no difference in top speed. Anyone have experience with this model, or is the motor speed limited internally?

All the "quantum phase" terminology is probably a mistranslation. By "ordinary", it means normal sine wave. A better translation is below.

C2=0 (Motor Phase Classification Coding Mode. 0 - 7, 0=sine wave)

The batteries should be of the same voltage rating (both 48v or both 52v, etc.), but they can be at different charge levels such as one being full and the other being half full.
You do not need to remove the batteries from the bike, but you do need to charge each battery with it's own charger. You cannot use one charger to charge both batteries at the same time, like you can with parallel battery setups.

Excellent price by the way, let us know how it works out.

Quote from: SemperVee on February 16, 2023, 10:29:50 PM

I spend a lot of time on city trails and the majority of issues with hogging the f***ing road and speeding is the spandex mafia.  I play chicken with the Ahats on "real" bikes in spandex who think they own the F** road and won't move over riding 2-3 abreast at too fast speeds to be safe.

Same problem here when I ride in state parks. I'm the "responsible" one, riding safely and being polite, and people know it and are very friendly. Meanwhile, the spandex crowd is blowing past children at 30mph and running strollers off the road. An idiot rider is an idiot rider regardless of the vehicle.