Quote from: Altema on September 18, 2020, 11:42:51 AM

Quote from: massassi on September 18, 2020, 08:25:46 AM
i'm sure it must be possible to build a limiter button, that you could engage/disengage at will in order to limit yourself in the places where you can be caught?

The ideal system would detect police radar and automatically slow you down to the correct speed 

It wouldn't make any difference as the ONYX RCR has no Pedal Assist (PAS) sensor or system, so it can never be passed off as a Class 1 or 2 pedelec or Ebike (ALL RADs purport to be the later). It is a moped or motorcycle pure and simple and merely slowing down does not activate some magic transformer mechanism that applies a Class 1 Ebike sticker to the frame of the machine. In some jurisdictions, nonconforming Ebikes can and have been confiscated by the authorities.   

Quote from: Altema on September 14, 2020, 09:39:25 AM...what's a bike repair station?

These things are starting to pop up along the Erie Canalway Trail and various cities I've visited in the last year or so: http://carlessoh.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/20151002-otet-08.jpg

I've actually used them a few times, figured I'd better do it before all the stuff got stolen...

I have several sets of these, they work fine: http://www.etsy.com/listing/768189023/rad-e-bike-battery-cap?ref=hp_opfy-3&bes=1

Quote from: Altema on September 12, 2020, 06:03:58 PM...I'm thinking of adding a mudflap...

With ~1K on my Mini4, seems like I've cleaned at least 10 pounds of mud off my controller. The most annoying area though is the rats nest bundle of wires below the bottom bracket. I've put dielectric grease in all the connectors as a precaution and made a prototype shield out of clear Mylar that wrapped from the top of the controller down and under the wire bundle. It made periodic wipedowns a lot easier, but got ripped off when riding through some scraggly underbrush.  I plan on making a more robust version while the bike is laid up this winter (IF that happens, I just got snap-on earmuffs for my ABUS helmet, had to order them from Germany).   

Here's a picture I snapped of a RadWagon I ran across parked outside the grocery store I usually shop at.

Quote from: massassi on September 11, 2020, 10:50:05 AM...that though process has me wondering why none of the Rads have a front shifter. is it a geometry problem?...

Probably, to some extent. It's not uncommon for many 21 speed and above bikes to have certain extreme front chainring/rear freewheel or cassette gear combinations that are not recommended as they produce chain rubbing, noise and sometimes "ghost shifts".  Rad seems mindful of the lack of cycling knowledge/experience of many of their users and probably wants to keep things simple.

Alignment poses the most acute problem on shorter wheelbase bikes, which would make the RadWagon the ultimate candidate for a front derailleur. Seems that people have done it, here's a picture I snapped of a RadWagon I ran across parked outside the grocery store I usually shop at.

Yes it is normal, as long are you really meant to type "At three bars remaining the output is about 120", not the 12 as originally posted.

It's quite understandable if you consider the basic electrical formula Volts X Amps = Watts.

The controllers on most Ebikes limit Amps based on PAS setting and/or throttle position.

Your "48 Volt" (nominal) battery is actually charged to about 54.6V fresh off the charger and the voltage drops through use until the low voltage protection circuit cuts off power at the bottom of one bar to prevent over discharge damage to the battery (probably at somewhere around 40 Volts).

So, as you ride, the circuitry in your display multiplies the Amps you are requesting by the Voltage the battery is currently capable of supplying to get the Watts it displays, and that will diminish as you ride.

Your numbers match those of my 2020 RadMini 4 almost exactly (again, if 120 is the correct three bar number) .   

Your RadRover doesn't have "shocks" per se. It has a simple spring fork, with grease applied to the sliding parts under the dust caps (calling them seals is a bit of a stretch). It is normal for some grease to get past those caps, and it can simply be wiped off to avoid trapping grit.

You don't say what year your Rover is, how many miles it has on it or whether you are actually experiencing and real problems like fork slider slop/shuddering/excessive stiction or whatever so it's kind of hard to answer more specifically.

Fork sliders can be re-greased.

Quote from: ejonesss on September 03, 2020, 08:34:26 AM...what happens will the 14s blow the controller or is there intermittently over volt shutdowns due to maybe inductance kick back...

Beats me, and I'm not going to risk blowing my controller or my warranty to find out. If you do it, let us know after a month or so of use. For all I know it could overload the flux capacitor, or something...

"Normal" lithium ion (NOT LiFePo4), 48 Volt nominal, ~13.5-14 Ah shark or dolphin cased Ebike batteries are 13S 4P and are typically charged to 54.6V

14S battery packs are rated as 52 Volt nominal and are usually charged to ~58.8V.

It would NOT be a good idea to hook a 14S battery pack up to a standard Rad controller, but Boltons controller will supposedly handle it.

Quote from: Altema on September 02, 2020, 08:54:33 AM...I would suspect the reduction gears inside the hub motor...

The direct drive motor in a RadCity doesn't have reduction gears.

The world is full of junk bicycle inner tubes. Look at some of the reviews on Amazon about valve stem separation and other problems. It's best to stick with name brand tubes, such as the Kenda ones sold by Rad.

Years ago you used to be able to buy "thorn proof" inner tubes that were 3 or 4 millimeters thick but they are very hard too find now and I've never seen them in fat sizes. The fat tubes were stuck with using these days are only about 0.9 to 1.0 millimeters thick (and those are the good ones), which explains why liners and sealant are so popular.

Quote from: Gordon71 on August 27, 2020, 02:46:52 PM
I don't believe you need to cut the Mr. Tuffy liners.  I just overlapped them...

Mr Tuffy currently only makes fat liners for 26" wheels. For those of us with Rads with 20" fat tires, simply overlapping standard MT fat liners without cutting them would be kind of ridiculous as there would be about  25 or 26 inches of overlap as opposed to the recommended 2 to 3 inches.   

Quote from: FortunatelyTheMilk on August 25, 2020, 02:08:35 PM...see if the  front light can be plugged into the back...

Won't work, front light uses a 2 pin Higo connector, rear uses a 4, if you try, you might bend a pin (that's why Higo connectors are color coded).

I've been able to measure voltage on female Higos using (sewing) straight pins but YOU HAVE TO BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL!

Keep using your GPS stuff because the Rad trip odometer will fail you completely some day.

If you're on a trip and stop to take a break or chat with someone, if the bike sits too long (seems like about 15 minutes or so), the display will turn off and reset the trip odometer.

Also, if you want to run into a store on the way home and turn off and lock up the bike, the trip odometer gets reset to zero.

So if keeping track of trips is important to you, remember or write down the Rad totalizing odometer reading at the start, or fire up a GPS or GPS app that doesn't reset until you tell it to.

Also, you will probably find that the difference between the Rad and GPS odometers can vary quit a bit on different trips and under different conditions. GPS calculations are influenced by tree cover, GPS constellation azimuth, whether you are traveling in mostly straight segments or zigzaging and other stuff. Mine have been as close as 0.1 mile on a ~50 mile trip, and as much as 0.5 mile off.