Quote from: DickB on May 04, 2021, 05:58:27 PMDeep discharge does also reduce battery life. batteryuniversity.com cautions against it.

An occasional foray into the lower limits of what our batteries can provide isn't going to kill them because there are low voltage cutoffs in BOTH our batteries and our controllers.  When our Watt  display goes to 000, there is probably still somewhere around 39 or 40 volts left in the battery, which is ~3.00 to 3.08 volts per cell, which isn't particularly harmful if only done occasionally (<2.5 volts/cell is generally considered the lower limit to avoid more rapid/permanent damage to most Lithium Ion cell chemistries ).

QuoteBattery charge limits can be set by monitoring either voltage or current.

Almost ALL modern Lithium Ion battery chargers are CC>CV, meaning that they maintain a constant current (like the 2 Amps for the Rad OEM charger) until a target voltage is reached (typically 54.6V for a 13 serial cell, 48 volt nominal Lithium Ebike battery pack), then they hold that voltage and let current decrease, until either shutting off completely at ~<50mA or providing a low trickle charge current as observed with Rad chargers (again, a sign of a BMS that is behind the times).

For those wanting to understand what to expect from their Rad batteries:

A fully charged battery will be able provide up to 750 Watts of power in Assist Level 5, as observed on the LCD Display.

As power is consumed, the maximum available Wattage shown on the LCD display will decrease, with only ~700, then ~600, then ~500, then ~400, then ~300, then ~200 , then ~100, then ~50, then ~25 maximum Watts available in Assist Level 5 as the Battery Capacity  Bar count on the LCD display drops from 5, to 4, to 3, to 2, to 1, then 1 Flashing.

Keep going and the final single bar will start flashing. Assist Level 5 will quickly become more like 2, then 1 was on a full battery, and the Wattage readout will eventually go to 000 and you're done.

If you're pushing for maximum range using pedal power and Assist Level 1, the LCD Watts display will eventually also go to 000, but when it does, increasing to Assist Level 2 will bring back ~25 or so Watts until the the LCD Displays zeroes again, but bumping up to Assist Level 3 will bring back ~25 Watts again, and so on. This makes the end a little less surprising, if not as sudden.

Time to swap in a fresh battery for the trip home...

And FWIW, I do charge to 80% most of the time, but I have another battery that is a 17.5Ah, so at 80% it's 14Ah, which is the same as the Rad OEM battery at full charge (and it balances on the fly). I also make it a point to charge fully depleted batteries as soon as I get home, as it's best to not leave them sitting around in that state.     
   

Depends on your experience level. If you've read the Rad torque chart and seen that none of the recommended values are significantly different from normal bicycle standard practices, and you have experience in applying those torques with standard hex keys, then you PROBABLY don't need to use a torque wrench (but it certainly wouldn't hurt anything, as long as it's accurate).

On the other hand, if you if you don't have that much experience, there are a couple of ways to get some:

1) Trial and error. You MIGHT eventually learn how to keep from stripping out threads and having parts fall off your bike (could take years and multiple bikes though).

2) Use a torque wrench (the preferred method of learning what specified torque values feel like).

I've found that some Rad bolt holes are a little crappy (rack & fender mounts in particular), often clogged with paint and some apparently had partial or dinged threads. If a bolt feels like it's going to exceed the recommended fully tightened torque value while your just running it down, it's better to chase the threads with a tap instead of just wrenching it in all the way. A torque wrench is an invaluable aid in learning stuff like this.

When you get your Rad you'll find out that charging to 60% or 80% is not as easy as it is on a Tesla because the "brick" charger that Rad supplies only terminates at 100%, so if you want to try charging to lower voltages to get some extra battery life you'll have to rig up some PITA way to read charge voltage on your own, monitor it and manually terminate at the appropriate value (or buy something like a Luna Advanced 48V Charger or a Grin Cycle Satiator).

As for some of the other points, Rad still recommends periodic balance charging their OEM batteries for up to 12 hours, even though the Battery Management Systems (BMS) built into many other modern Ebike batteries make that unnecessary  (they balance on the fly).

As for not running the battery down close 0%,  phooey, how else am I going to find out if I can get 60 miles out of my Mini (55.5 is my best so far, to one bar flashing+). It's my bike and if I want to do that three or four times a year, I will, and I'm not going to let the possibility of a few extra months battery life stand in the way of having fun.

I use the "Original Handlebar Jack V2" bar stands on my RadMini 4:

https://www.handlebarjack.com/?ref=tcagucypv8ri

A little on the flimsy side for something as heavy as an Ebike but they have worked for me and haven't broken and dumped the bike (yet, I've tried to be careful though). I've had both versions, the new V2s are definitely more stable.

For those who remove and carry their Rad batteries around, if you're anywhere near as paranoid as I am about dropping one of the shiny, slippery, expen$ive things, a C.E. Smith Draw Bar Storage Bag (for a trailer hitch) fits the battery like a glove, has handles and is built like a brick outhouse:

https://amzn.to/3iqsNNW

I use a Grove Tools Quick Release Seat Lock on the optional 27.2mm suspension seatpost of my 2020 RadMini 4, but I had to drop the Rad battery mounting plate farther down in its mounting slots to be able to get it to orient correctly, lock the seatpost AND block removal of the battery the same as it does on the taller RadRovers:

http://www.saveyourseatlock.com

I experienced one downside with the Grove seatpost lock though. It uses a plastic/polymer washer as part of the hardware stack that pinches the seat tube. I had my seat twist a couple of times after installing it, as I didn't seem to be able to get it as tight as the OEM seatpost clamp with its all metal hardware (their instructions caution about over tightening, and I didn't want to break anything). I just used Park Tool "Supergrip Carbon and Alloy Assembly Compound" on the top of the seatpost just below the clamp and it's been fine ever since, but the stuff will DEFINITELY wreck the finish on the part of the seatpost inside the seat tube, which isn't a problem if you've got you length dialed in and don't need to change it for different riders or conditions, otherwise it will be ugly in the extended position(s). I also used a fixed, no lip, straight bolt 27.2mm clamp on the seatpost itself, just above the Grove Locking clamp, so I can reinsert the seatpost to the proper height without having to measure or even look at anything when reassembling the bike after it has been broken down for transport.     

 

I ride all of the above terrains.

The three flats on my RadMini 4 have all been on the FRONT wheel:
#1) What looked to be a fiberglass shard, riding through a lot of junk next to the curb on a county road with no clear alternative path, in heavy traffic.
#2) A sharp stick, riding through the woods on a not very well defined/developed "trail" (small sliver of wood left behind in LARGE hole, trashed the tire too[broken cords]) .
#3) On a fairly well defined dirt trail, very small hole, couldn't find what caused it.

I self rescued from all three, getting home with no assistance other than what I was carrying with me (Park GP-2 Patches [pre-glued], Park TB-2 Tire Boots and pumps).

I've accumulated more than 15,000 miles on bicycles over the years and although flats can ruin your ride or your day, do your best to not let them (or fear of them) ruin the overall experience.  Half the fun of my Rad is doing whatever I want with it, whenever I want, so I just ignore people telling me how or where best to ride it. After adding Mr Tuffys and sealant, things have been fine for me but I'll probably order and install the Tannus liner system later this year or over the winter (primarily for the limited run [or push] flat capability).

Also, FWIW, if you're an AAA member, be advised that their normal free bicycle rescue coverage does NOT apply to Ebikes, but the extra paid (usually ~$35 annually, depending on region) RV Coverage DOES.

Depending on your capabilities, just prepare as best you can and get out there. I'll bet sitting around worrying about what could go wrong and therefore doing nothing has killed WAY more people than bicycle tire flats have.

I had 3 flats in the first ~100 miles on my 2020 RadMini 4, and zero in the next 2300 miles (after installing Mr Tuffys and sealant). Even so, I doubt what I did would have saved my from a deck screw through the sidewall, those Tannus thingys are certainly looking better every day... 

Quote from: mbsound on April 03, 2021, 11:55:40 PM
...only rated for 200 mating cycles...

I don't replug on every ride so that might not be as much of a limiting factor for me, but I hoped to get more if needed in the future because I use dielectric grease in all of the connectors on my Mini 4 (AND to mitigate the intrusion of nasties). Proper power management is also conducive to longer connector life, it's best to turn off the display and battery power switch before plugging/unplugging batteries to avoid/minimize arcing (even on stock Rads or those with Anti-Spark XT90 connectors).   

I looked at the cable as an interim thing to avoid cutting the OEM harness while the bike was still under warranty. After that, I'll probably go with something like XT90s and an AB switch.

FWIW, the cable appears to use ~14 gauge wire, maybe slightly larger by my measurement (but not a full 13G). It should be adequate for handling the supposed 17.5 max Amps of the Rad OEM controller, depending on which AWG chart you want to believe. It sort of depends on whether one interprets its one meter/metre length as falling into the "transmission" or "chassis wiring" category. After a sustained 750 Watt max assist, ~¼ mile climb on my closest test hill, the cable/connectors didn't seem unduly overheated by the time I could stop and try to measure things, but it was winter and less than 32° F ambient, which was totally screwing up the calibration on my thermal imager.  I might repeat the test in late June when higher ambient temperatures make the imager easier to use/believe.

So, although apparently adequate on a bone stock Rad, I might not feel comfortable recommending this cable for someone using a 35 or higher Amp aftermarket controller and/or overdriven/750 or higher Watt motor (but those people have probably already cut off their stock OEM 2 pin battery connectors anyhow).

This 1000mm one worked on my 2020 RadMini 4 (not sure about your Mission though):

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001631241583.html

It only took a little over 3 weeks to make its way to New York.

The connector appears to be a Mutual Z215AM:

http://www.mutuallc.com/Z215AM-2-pin-Battery-connector-pd49912085.html

Good luck on trying to find them separately, but Bolton does sell the Female end as part of their Rad Battery Adapters here (when they have them in stock):

http://boltonebikes.com/products/radpower-battery-adapter

Quote from: Count on September 29, 2020, 02:12:09 PM
Do yourself a favor and buy a true 1000w Baffang hub motor...

How about the issue of legality for those of us who live in the United States?

In 2002 US law HB 727 was enacted by Congress and defined "low speed electric bicycles (like the ones currently sold by Rad Power Bikes in the US) as non-motorized vehicles not subject to laws requiring licensing, insurance and helmet use (among others) as long as they had electric motors of less than 750 Watts (~1 horsepower) which couldn't propel them at more than 20 MPH on a paved level surface with a 170 pound rider solely on motor power alone.

15 U.S. Code § 2085 - Low-speed electric bicycles and 16 C.F.R. Part 1512 went further in defining legalities, particularly as they applied to manufacturers. These later regulations might leave a bit of leeway in terms of what kind of modifications individuals may make to their bikes after they buy them, BUT THE 750 WATT/20 MPH MAXIMUMS ARE CAST IN STONE, anything more is a moped, motorcycle or some other kind of motor vehicle subject to all laws governing those classes and their operators.

Our Ebikes might be very hard to get licensed as road legal motor vehicles as their construction and and components might not meet the more stringent performance/safety testing requirements of those higher speed machines. 

Violations can get very expen$ive, and result in confiscation of contraband Ebikes in some localities.

Sorry to be a party pooper, it's just the law (and our cohorts in Canada and Europe are faced with even lower limits).

So why do 100 Watt motors exist? They would be legal for use on private property (your back yard or 5000 acre ranch in Montana) or by the military or other government agency. The MIGHT be legal for use "off road", on public/BLM/OHV park lands in some states if not specifically excluded from certain areas. The federal laws just prohibit their use on public roads, and most state laws would exclude them from use on most public trails as they would not be covered by the non-motor vehicle exemptions sometimes granted to Ebike classes like 1 or 2. 

Quote from: massassi on September 29, 2020, 11:45:55 AM...I'm thinking about putting one of those big fancy sram eagle setups on the bike. assuming that my hub can accept a freewheel is there any reason why this wouldn't work on a radwagon?

Depends whether that freewheel will fit on the Rad Bafang rear hub (unlikely because those SRAMs are cassettes, not freewheels) , the resulting over locknut dimension OLD (will it fit between the rear dropouts without spreading them so they are no longer parallel) and on the length of the cage on the rear derailleur you plan on using, you'd need one with a very long cage (lots of chain "wrap"). Maybe some of the incompatibilities could be resolved by having special axle stubs or adapters machined, I dunno.

You'd have to switch to a narrower 12-speed chain, and probably have to also change your front chainring to a thinner 12-speed chain compatible one.   

It might be extremely difficult to pull something like this off on most shorter wheelbase bikes, but the RadWagon with its long wheelbase certainly seems more doable, possibly the ideal candidate.

Not hype, Slime brand tire sealant works very well as long as you use the correct amount and realize it will dry out and become less effective over time (Slime says it has about a 2 year useful life on their website FAQ section). If pre-Slimed tubes are available in your size, that's the easy way, if not you'll have to add the stuff to your own tubes.  It's probably best to replace the tubes/Slime every couple of years or so rather than just adding more Slime to make up for what has dried out.

Mr Tuffy liners are another proven item which work well if you use the correct size, but they don't protect the sidewalls from getting sliced in really rocky terrain.

There are also several brands of foam tire inserts available, reviews are mixed, and some might not be available in your size (you didn't mention what that was).   

Yes, unfortunately  it's quite common, same with my RM4. It's been happening forever, just another one of those things that Rad obviously doesn't care about.

If you try to bend it back while still mounted on the bike, it might be possible to bend or break something else, and you might find the two mounting surfaces do not go back to being flat against the frame, making it more bendy than it's supposed to be (three guesses how I know this, second two don't count).

I ended up taking mine off and getting it back to its more or less original shape using a vise and various pliers/wrenches but the paint got destroyed in the process.

I ultimately did get Rad to send me a new one along with some other trashed parts. They will probably also want pictures of the damaged shipping carton, as if they'd never seen the problem before.

Don't forget to use a threadlocking compound when putting the guard back on,  something like Loctite 242 (blue), and quickly and thoroughly wipe any excess dribbles off the painted frame.

Quote from: jbfoster on September 25, 2020, 08:07:36 PM...I really don't understand why the spacer is used. Any reason I can't install the rack without the spacers?...

This is just a guess, but they may have included longer bolts and spacers to address possible clearance issues with the frames on some other brands of bikes, where the rack support arms didn't have a straight shot down to the mounting points on or near the dropouts, or maybe to allow the rack to also be used on not so fat/wide rear ends.

If it mounts solidly without the spacers and without having to bend anything excessively, that would seem to be the preferred mounting method in my way of thinking.

I have both 85 & 110cm folding link locks and am forever finding things I can't get the 85 around when that's the one I have with me. The 110 is a beast and opens up the possibility of using many more things as possible anchors, but even it won't go around a decent size tree. If every place you ride has a compatible bike rack with open/accessible slots, the 85 would probably be fine.