Quote from: handlebar on August 26, 2023, 05:51:59 PMMy Radrunner 1 manual says anything more or less than that pressure, which they don't state, is unsafe.

I think the reason for that is the stated pressure is tire-specific, so if Rad permanently (like with the Minis) or temporarily ships with different tires, they don't have the risk of reprinting the manual if the replacement tire has a different rating. 

Quote from: handlebar on August 20, 2023, 11:34:44 AMI also use the throttle when I have to break wind, which some riders do constantly. Above 15 miles an hour, most of a rider's energy goes into breaking wind, and it increases as the cube of his speed. That's relative speed. Before I had an ebike, in a headwind I might struggle to break wind at 5 mph.

Have you done any test comparisons to determine how much speed you gain on days you've eaten beans?  I struggled to notice any difference until I finally figured out I was facing the wrong way and was just breaking into the wind.

If God had intended for us to be pedestrians, He wouldn't have given us roads.

Quote from: Paco on August 15, 2023, 01:25:14 PMfor now this is my primary vehicle...til Winter (I'm in Toronto, Canada). Thanks

Make sure to bring your battery indoors into a heated space when temps are heading toward freezing over winter (one of those fireproof battery bags is probably a sensible precaution - I use them for my electric yard tool batteries), and try to get it to 50-75% charge level before storing it (full-charge is a bad idea for long life when storing.)  Also, the recommended range for this type of battery is 80%-20%, in other words charge to 80%, discharge to 20% unless otherwise necessary for more-demanding rides.  This will get you maximum lifetime and charge cycles out of the battery.  Also, try not to charge it right after a ride when the battery is still warm - give it an hour or two to cool down if possible.  If you care for your battery you should get at least 800 charge cycles out of it from what I was able to find when I researched it.  I log my miles and charge cycles, so for my riding and riding season that's over 10 years of battery life in a perfect world.

I know it's not easy to gauge those numbers on the charger, but I note the bars remaining, then have several Alexa routines to run the charger 2, 4 or 7 hours , plus I have 12 set up for the annual balancing at the beginning of the season (the newer semi-integrated battery designs supposedly don't need balancing).

Unlocking the higher top speed won't change a thing except your range if you run at that speed all the time; won't hurt the battery or motor, and is a routine change for most new owners - the lower values are to comply with laws, not motor capability.  "Altema" here on the forum a year or two ago actually tried to fry a stock Rad motor that he was about to remove and upgrade, so he ran it at 1,600 watts for extended periods and the motor didn't skip a beat.  He couldn't break it.

Note that if you upgrade the controller someday, you'll get (a lot) more torque for acceleration and hill-climbing, but you can't get more top speed without a higher-voltage battery and different motor.  I'm cool with about 25mph for a lightweight vehicle.

Hope you enjoy your ride!

One of these cables might do the job for you as well:  https://amzn.to/3snYHSA

My advice would be to install the controller/display upgrade (upgraded controllers are always a good idea) but don't even open the motor box before you test-ride the upgraded controller.  I bet you'll find it's all you need, because Rad stock motors can handle it fine.  I've had no problems running 1600 watts through my 2021 MiniST2 and Altema (here on the forum) tried and failed to burn out a stock Rad motor that he had sitting on the shelf with extended 1600+ watt testing.

Hopefully you'll be allowed to return the motor, because I think you'll want to.

Have fun, but go easy on an upgraded throttle at first; I was amazed at the difference.

Quote from: aad7122 on August 09, 2023, 11:36:19 AMOnly makes the noise at full throttle or when it's on PA5. Doesn't slip or have any loss of power just makes that awful noise. Also only makes the noise when on the bike under weight.

So it doesn't make the noise if you lift the rear wheel off the ground when hitting the throttle?  I was going to guess maybe check spokes for proper tightness, but if you can tear the wheel and motor down, you probably knew to consider that already, and that sound might take a LOT of loose spokes.

Best of luck tracking it down quickly!

Quote from: crorris on August 07, 2023, 11:36:08 AMIt looks like Lectric has dealers throughout the country who sell their bikes and even have rentals/test rides. It looks like they also have even more dealers who are certified to repair them.


https://lectricebikes.com/pages/fleet-rental
https://lectricebikes.com/pages/repair-service-network

I used the Search function for repair locations several times and came up with nothing at all.  Then I realized it ignores a Zip Code input; you have to type in a named location.  That's unusual, but FYI

Quote from: thormanson on August 06, 2023, 09:21:48 PM
From my non-techie viewpoint, I have to apologize and correct myself in stating that the two digital displays on my RAD City bike are LCD's, not LED's as I understand it.  So, basically black characters on a greyish background.  It is this configuration that I continue to have difficulty reading in bright sunlight, despite trying a variety of adjustments.  I certainly admire Handlebar's ingenuity in trying to provide shade for his displays with roofing felt, something I haven't tried.  It kind of astonishes me that with the degree of engineering that goes into these machines, the RAD folk can't figure out how to improve the illumination on the displays so that we users don't have to go to such extremes.

From the very first YouTube reviews of the new dual-display Rad models a year or two ago, I noticed right away that the smaller PAS display on the left was considerably dimmer than the larger main display, but it was mostly shrugged off if mentioned at all in the reviews. 

Is your City model relatively new?  If so, then it seems they still haven't addressed this disparity with the display manufacturer(s). 

As an aside just out of curiosity, did you have any issues adapting to using two displays that separate the data while riding?

Quote from: Mtolesen on August 04, 2023, 09:55:16 AMAlso, do you think you could give me the link to the Amazon page with the extender cable?

Here you go: https://amzn.to/47D5s2R

If you search for "ebike cables" or similar you can turn up other vendors and cables as well.  Hope you find one that works for you.

Quote from: Mike Dupre on August 03, 2023, 04:12:44 AM
I saw an ARE13 video on YouTube where the fellow used a BLANK (uncut) key and it worked. Of course I can't find it now but try this: https://youtu.be/BdsGaFB2rcc?t=36

That only works on the previous generation(s) batteries that sit on top completely exposed.  The semi-integrated batteries of the City 5 Plus are a totally different design and if they had any brains at all they didn't re-use the same lock mechanism that can be unlocked by a blank key.

I only carry a blank for my MiniST2, by the way, just to prove it works when warning other Rad owners about how ridiculously-easy it is to steal the battery and/or the entire bike unless the frame is locked up at minimum.

Here's my solution to the battery-theft problem, but would need to be adapted to different frames; the idea is to prevent sliding the battery up to remove it even if unlocked from the bike:

Quote from: Joshua_Bornot on August 01, 2023, 06:42:25 PM
Hello Everyone. This is my first time posting here. I have been trying to get a hold of Rad Power and have yet to get a response from anyone, I recently got in an accident and one of my cables broke. ( I think it goes to the display screen ). Anyway. I am trying to find out what part I need and how and where I can purchase this piece. I have attached, a picture of the broken part so if anyone can give me the part number, etc. it would be greatly appreciated.

Here are a couple of Amazon links to various e-bike cables that might help you out if you can't get one from Rad:

https://amzn.to/3snZ3IU
https://amzn.to/47HHALm

Also, if you could unscrew that connection and add a photo to the end connector so we can see how many pins and how they are arranged, somebody might be able to refer you.  Don't forget to at least estimate the cable length you'll need, I think these come in various sizes but I've never bought one.

Good luck!

Quote from: Ddaybc on July 31, 2023, 01:17:37 PMI see Ryan has a new video about adapting the Hollywood rack to carry a trike and an additional bike on the 1st tray.

I saw that video and the recovering mechanical engineer in my head was scared to death, thinking of that thing loaded up with a trike (much less another bike as well) out at the end of that stick, swinging up and down on a rutted road or hitting potholes.  Sooner or later, something's going to break and God help the person on the road behind it when it does.

Quote from: handlebar on July 30, 2023, 08:43:24 AMThe discerning reader ( such as myself ) immediately recalls January 9, 2009

That was a marvelous quantity of excellent points, all presented in a concise matter to inform and educate without inducing stupor.  Kudos.

Although it took extraordinary measures to achieve it, that's impressive range.

One question, though: why do you need a motor (instead of a regular bicycle), or was this just a test to see what she could do?