Hopefully you'll hear back soon; there are forum members who do the same thing.  I have a lightweight rain cover I can slip over my MiniST when it's on the back of my truck, but it's not the right thing for daily outside storage.  I'm sure a dirtbike or motorcycle cover would work, but you'll have to size it appropriately for your kid seat and other accessories.  But it's possible to buy covers to handle the gigantic Gold Wings and Harley baggers, so your solution is out there.....

Way to go; DIY to save money and learn the bike.  Let us know how it works out, if you're willing.

Quote from: RadMig on January 19, 2023, 01:56:26 AM
Update January 2023 I was sent two emails from the company's customer service. The first one is announcing the shipping of the replacement tire and tubes which I should have here in the next day or two. And the second email that I got just this morning direct me to a local bike shop for free warranty appointment. I am down here in sunny Central Florida between Mickey mouse and the buccaneers. My assigned bike repair shop looks like it's a mobile service and so that's good. Will update again in the next week or so to let you know.

So, how did it work out for you?

Is this something you've noticed recently, and it was smooth previously, or just tried this for the first time?

If it's suddenly changed, maybe check for loose spoke(s) that would allow the rim to go slightly out of round and cause an unbalance.  (Checking your spokes occasionally on both wheels is a good idea anyway.)  Otherwise, it really doesn't look too bad to me; it wobbles a bit, but not uncontrollably and only when unloaded.  These aren't precision-balanced F-1 wheels, after all, and a bit of unbalance might be expected in the tire and wheel.  As long as you don't notice it while riding, you're probably good.  My MiniST2 is similarly slightly unbalanced, but feels fine on the road. 

But I'm not a bike mechanic, so interested to hear what others might say.

Quote from: Valentina on May 03, 2023, 03:12:42 PM
Dear Rad community, thanks for your  instructions and comments on changing the fuse.
Luckily I have found this forum and now we?re back on track!

That's great to hear; have you completed the repair? 

I still don't understand why Rad decided to specify that battery fuses on the new bikes have to be buried and inaccessible without serious effort and tools, or even a soldering iron on some designs.  The older battery design on my MiniST has two rubber flip-up covers on the bottom side with standard automotive blade fuses contained and waterproofed underneath, so I carry both as spare in my underseat toolkit.

Quote from: Tree on May 03, 2023, 07:10:21 AMthey are apparently having issues with their phone lines, and note that they're currently down and offer both online chat and text options. not ideal, obviously, but texting is probably better than a long drive.

IIRC didn't they have this same comm failure at Rad a month or two ago?

Did one of the holding tabs on the bracket break or something?  I have a MiniST as well and the battery in its mount is very solid, almost feeling like a single unit.  I have to put a bit of oomph into the bottom to get the battery out on the rare occasions I do that (I charge it in place on the bike).

If something did break from bouncing around on MTB trails, it would be a good idea to look closely to see if any other part on that mount is about to fail as well - one failure would probably increase the dynamic stress on the remaining ones.  If most of your miles are still on those trails, I'd treat the bungee fix as a get-home temporary arrangement.  You don't want a catastrophic failure and complete loss of power up on the side of a mountain.  Sorry, the recovering-engineer in me tends to worry about other people's problems sometimes.

If the battery itself is undamaged, you should be able to get another mount from Rad, I assume for a nominal charge since all Minis are out of warranty by now I think.

Welcome back, man!  I know all about sudden life chaos......

Can you specify which model bike and which display, if one of the newer 2-screen models?  I switched to the aftermarket 35A display/controller last year, so can't specifically answer your question, unfortunately.

Whenever I have an issue like yours, I just take one of the remaining screws to my local hardware store and match it to something on their shelves.  Always test-screw on a nut as well to confirm you have the right thread pitch in addition to size.  Depending on the stock screws, this might be a good opportunity to change them all out to a high-quality stainless-steel version if appropriate.

And don't forget to buy one or two extras for the next time!

Quote from: sweets on April 08, 2023, 10:59:49 AM
Just installed the new display and 35A controller on my Rad Min 4.  I noticed in the settings one ADDITIONAL setting, C15, which is factory set at 6 (it can be set to either 4, 5 or 6).  I got my controller from Electro Bike World but so far no word from them on this setting.  Anybody have an idea as to what this MYSTERY setting does?  It is not mentioned in any blog posts, videos or the mfg manual on the controller so I don't have a clue.

I think you've stumbled upon a newly-added setting; none of my reference materials go beyond C14 and so far have found nothing on the web.  If you hear back from EBW about it, please let us know.

Howdy!  And take solace in the fact that you're not the only old guy here.

Cheers.

I'm just an old mechanical engineer, and agree with Radio Runner.  Put the heavier of the two inboard closest to the vehicle, regardless of size.  That lessens the lever-arm length that puts stress on the hitch.

Remove as much as is practical from both bikes (batteries, water bottles if not empty and easily-removed accessories, maybe even the seat and post) to lighten them up as much as possible, again to reduce stress on the mount.

Rad customer service "may" be able to help you with a replacement battery, but since you're not the original owner be prepared to play 20-questions to prove to them you didn't steal it.  With the bike and/or battery serial number their records should be able to figure out which key is needed - whether they still stock them is a different question.

Good luck!

Quote from: nickster99 on March 13, 2023, 05:39:10 PM
Thanks, Make sense , will look at other ways to transport the Rad rover 6 plus I guess . I do have a hitch on my SUV

Nick

I recommend considering the Harbor Freight motorcycle-rack as shown in the pics on my linked page above.  I got mine for about $140 delivered (look around for 20% discount coupon codes, which are often available) and it's designed to handle 3-4x the weight of our e-bikes.  Very affordable, works well.  Includes a ramp to load/unload an e-bike using the motor in the "walking" slow speed mode - no lifting needed.  Requires a 2" hitch receiver.

https://www.harborfreight.com/400-Lbs-Receiver-Mount-Motorcycle-Carrier-62837.html

I added the reflective tape and strap-on trailer brake/turn signals, also did a little drilling to adjust the stock location of one hold-down pin and one crossbar, but that depends on the bike's wheelbase.  These pics were taken during fine-tuning and strap trimming - for actual transport a lot of weight is removed, including battery, water bottles, locks... essentially anything that can be easily removed to lighten up the load.

Here's a vid on it I found on YT:  https://youtu.be/pZCszVWCzfk

Quote from: nickster99 on March 13, 2023, 11:47:02 AM
Thanks folks that answered, I went to details on Hollywood crossbar and see another issue I have a hitch mount that bikes hang from rated at 143 pounds. The Hollywood says 35 lbs max hanging , and 80 lbs I guess if wheels are in a platform ?

It's a very nice bar, but I would definitely not use it for hanging a bike - it's very handy to create hard points at either end to grab onto for pulldown onto the rack, great for stepthrough frames like the MiniST, not hanging from above - either one of the hinges or the adjustment mechanism would fail, especially under bouncing loads on the road.