Quote from: suspci on June 02, 2023, 05:26:48 PMIs this the controller to which you refer and did you use the screen or the original Rad one?
https://area13ebikes.com/products/radkit

Yep, that's it.  I see Area13 has finally elaborated on compatibility notes, which is a good thing; I had to verify with other users that it would work on my bike because in Fall 2021 the product listing was unclear.  Plug-and-play and fits fine with heavy-duty zipties and velcro to secure it to the bike in place of the original, although one of the cables is short for the MiniST2 - it's long enough, but just barely.  Amazing boost to performance and after a couple hundred miles completely reliable.  A version for your bike would have different cabling, of course.

You can't use the factory displays with these controller upgrades (although the cables/connectors are the same), so make sure if you order one that you get the full kit with display included.  It's a very nice and functional color display and there are new features like cruise control and a trip odometer that doesn't clear itself if the display times out and shuts off.  That always pissed me off with the original setup.

Note that the new controller's main odometer will start at zero of course, and you can't modify that, so if you care about total mileage on the bike after a controller swap, make note of the mileage before disconnecting the old one.

It sure seems Rad is burning up their inventory of goodwill earned over previous years.  I bet their investors who got in on the last round a couple years ago ($150M, IIRC) are not happy and are squeezing them.

If your problem is limited to the controller, I'd suggest buying (if available for the City 5) a controller/display upgrade from either Area13 or Electro Bike World; I bought my 35A MiniST controller from Area13 and it's amazing - both companies sell essentially the same product, but I have no customer experience with EBW, although it seems they're the first to make these controllers available for the Rover 6+.

If all you need is a controller, and one of these is available for your bike, you'll like it a lot.

Just a thought, since you got all the upgrades at once: try installing just the controller and display first, with your stock motor and battery, to make sure both new components are working properly - might save some debugging hassle later if you encounter any problems, and you'll have a feel for the performance of the stock parts when given more amps to feed on.  These are also the easiest to install.  If the new motor and battery are returnable, you may find that you're satisfied with the performance and stop at that point.

Don't forget to make sure the controller settings are appropriate for the stock battery before putting it under load - I'm assuming the 6+ models are still 48v.

If it were me, I'd then install the new motor and re-test, saving the higher-voltage battery for last, but there are more-experienced people on this forum who may point out I have no idea what I'm talking about since I'm just wobbling around on a 35A MiniST2.   

Sorry, can't offer any advice about those newer batteries, but there are quite a few existing threads on them and the newer bike models, so I'm sure somebody else will chime in.

May I suggest you change the thread subject line to something more specific, to attract attention?  Something like "Rad City 5 Plus battery never used and DOA" maybe?  That will narrow it down to others who have the newer models.

You should be ok with a warranty replacement as long as you didn't cause damage - a recurring problem with the newer batteries seems to be people accidentally touching their key to the charging port and shorting out the battery, instead of the keyway.  That isn't covered by warranty, but can be repaired with a little skillful disassembly and soldering - there are detailed threads on that here as well.

BTW, is this the same bike you posted as ordering last April and assembling in November '22?  It might be out of warranty coverage if so.

Which model year is your Rad City, and did you buy it new?  If new, you're still under warranty for the battery and/or charger.

If you have a model with the older "shark" battery that sits on top of the battery cradle, flip it upside down and you should see two rubber weather plugs.  Those are your input/output blade fuses, like a car.  Pull them out and check to make sure one or the other isn't blown.  If they look ok, try reinserting and pulling a couple of times to exercise the electrical connector.  It's possible you just have a blown, missing or slightly-corroded fuse.

And when you got red/green lights on the charger, did you leave it on charge for at least a couple of hours?  It may have self-discharged down below a voltage that the controller will allow to start the bike.  If it's too low, the battery may be fine but to protect the battery it won't start up.  Also, whatever you end up doing, do the battery-balancing if you have an older battery, as shown in the manual.

Hope you get it up and running quickly.

Quote from: handlebar on May 29, 2023, 09:16:56 PMI had a similar experience with my Radmission: dead accurate going slow, but 20% high going faster. On both bikes, it seems that bumps can cause erratic readings of the wheel-revolution sensor.

That's interesting and depressing at the same time.  I haven't done any measurements like that, but I use the OsmAnd+ mapping app (because it has excellent and up-to-date bike trails, even the tiny ones in my neighborhood) to log each ride.  Comparing its trip distance to the bike's odometer, it's pretty close, especially cumulatively over several rides, and I have portions of roads that look bombed-out they're so lumpy.  I'll try to keep your observations in mind to see if I notice any changes.

Quote from: Radio Runner on May 29, 2023, 08:51:18 AMI?m curious why the choice of Zero on C5 ?max current? compared to the others? The others have something other than zero and jim1 started with 10. What?s your experience with that setting? 

It's been quite a while since I did the testing, but as I recall I started with 10 because that's "maximum current value" and doesn't limit the throttle ramp-up.  I don't think C5 limits power output except as the throttle is applied from zero - I still pull around 1600w at max power demand.

IIRC, set to 10 it just leapt off the line very harshly with all the power offered by the new controller, so I tried other settings, and for my MiniST2 ended up with a value of 00 for a relatively soft start with multiple increments before hitting maximum.  For me, that's much better for pulling away on slippery surfaces or from crowded supermarket parking spaces, stoplights etc. where a sudden leap forward might come to grief.  It's up to full power in just 2-3 seconds, so it's not very limiting if I want to scoot away quickly with full throttle.  A setting of 01 is similar, but has 2 rampup speeds rather than 3; some may prefer that.  Settings of 3-10, as I recall, don't have steps, they just apply that fraction of maximum power during rampup.  Hopefully somebody with better recollection will chime in if I'm wrong about the above comments.

Additionally, because of the smallish 20" wheels, the Mini puts more force (same torque, but on a smaller radius) on the road than a Rover for instance, so the effect is magnified.

As usual, YMMV and individual preferences will give the "correct" result with a little experimenting.  That's why I created a new column when my settings were changed, so I could refer back to previous values without guessing.

FYI, my DIM setting of 23" for tire diameter was set after comparing the bike's display against GPS while in cruise-control on level surface - it matches almost perfectly; this value might need to be adjusted for different tires, but I think a setting of 20 is always wrong for accurate speed display.

Quote from: blanconet on May 28, 2023, 02:14:49 PMThrottle power works great but I'm not getting any PAS, can folks share their controller settings for me to compare with mine? I've got a Radwagon 4

I don't know how much it'll help you, but here are my settings for a 2021 MiniST2.  My current settings are in the "Jim4" column; the earlier tries are just there for reference, as well as those from some other folks.

I've had no problems with the 35A controller I bought from Area13 in late 2021 for my 2021 MiniST2.  Nothing stopped working (both head and tail lights are fine), but I regard both the stock and "premium" headlights as next to useless, so I keep the "premium" one mounted as an emergency spare and put a Planet Bike light up on the handlebars.

However, I haven't heard of the controller-burnout issue and have occasionally turned on the "premium" headlight for extra daytime visibility a few times, but never for more than just a few minutes and I generally don't ride after dark.

So I don't think it'd blow up anything quickly, but for long-term use I hope to hear somebody else chime in.

Quote from: ArmyOfPenguins on May 24, 2023, 09:15:04 PMHere's the link:  http://www.szktdz.com/en/news.php?page=1&&&type=348.  I downloaded the manual "KT-LCDH P eBike Display User Manual_V3.0".  Hope this helps others. 

Thanks!  This is great; I was curious about that new setting (which my controller doesn't have) and couldn't find any docs.

Quote from: santacruzpaul on May 21, 2023, 05:36:14 PMBalancing battery requires three 12 hour charges, From what I have read and done, Putting on about 10 or 15 miles after each 12 hour balancing charge

IIRC, the new semi-integrated battery design and controller on the 6 series no longer requires manual balancing; maybe they've been updated for continuous rebalancing management.  I don't own one of the newer ones, FYI, but did the 3-cycle initial balancing on my 2021 MiniST2 and a 2-cycle refresh before taking it out this spring after winter hibernation.

To get visibility for an settings answer, you might try posting a subject line something like "What are your settings for 35A controller upgrade on a RadWagon 3?"

Something that specific might just rope in somebody who's been down your road.  In any case, the settings may be different for the RW3, but since it uses the same motor as others of that era, you might only have to change wheel diameter and a couple other tweaks - I doubt you'll have a radically-wrong setup as default, but a little tweaking to suit individual preferences is expected, as I did with my controller upgrade on my MiniST2. 

Quote from: santacruzpaul on May 18, 2023, 06:30:26 PMIs My Radrover #5 bought in the USA in 2021 battery UL Approved?

From Ryan's article linked above: "It is a goal of ours to certify all of our bikes to UL 2849 standards as they are released in the future."

That's a little ambiguous and could be interpreted to mean only future products will be UL certified.  I don't think it's required, but any product I have that's UL certified has the UL logo on it somewhere; I think the right to use the logo comes with the testing fees.  So a quick check of your battery might be informative, but I doubt you'll find it there. 

I had a countertop water distiller made of Chineseium that actually had a fake UL logo on it and I checked it just shy of catching fire - the connector to the removable power cord was starting to melt because of the heat from undersized wire thickness acting like resistors.  Bought a much-better, certified and USA-made distiller that runs cool and perfectly.  Cut the inside wiring on the defective one and tossed it.

Nice job!

Hopefully you'll hear back soon; there are forum members who do the same thing.  I have a lightweight rain cover I can slip over my MiniST when it's on the back of my truck, but it's not the right thing for daily outside storage.  I'm sure a dirtbike or motorcycle cover would work, but you'll have to size it appropriately for your kid seat and other accessories.  But it's possible to buy covers to handle the gigantic Gold Wings and Harley baggers, so your solution is out there.....