Hey, I'm assume you're the guy from that YouTube channel.

I believe bolton sells a replacement, that may be an option:
https://boltonebikes.com/collections/frames-and-parts/products/fat-bike-suspension-fork

Quote from: SanDiegoDoug on September 23, 2021, 09:40:59 PM
I realize I may be headed down a rabbit hole on this but does changing the wheel/tire size make a difference in top speed? I keep reading conflicting results.

I've tested setting a smaller tire size to fool the speed limiter. Yes, it will work around the motor cutoff. However there is only so much speed you can gain out of the stock controller and motor.

One of these cables may help adapt a generic battery to the rad power battery connection:
https://electrobikeworld.com/products/rad-power-battery-adapter

*Keep in mind, the stock display was designed for 48 volts nominal. 52 might be too much.*

You should have enough stuff to get at least the display to power on (press and hold middle button). Minimum attaching the controller, harness, display, motor, and battery.

If that works, you can then attach a compatible throttle (most ebike throttles) and attempt to drive the rear wheel.

--

You don't NEED a brake cutoff. It is an important safety feature. Say someone loses control of your bike from lack of familiarity, they could get seriously injured.

On these direct drive motors the cutoff also functions as a regen feature providing additional braking and battery efficiency.

That aught to charge the battery just fine.

Whether you can charge and ride at the same time. Maybe? Probably not recommended though.

Well. From the photos that the new drive motor uses the same plug, and the cabling is on the same side as the previous model.

The wheels are now larger on the RadCity 5 at 27.5 inch, and are narrower by half an inch. Older RadCity models might be able to fit the larger wheel size. If I remember correctly a 29 inch model use to be available.

The controller for the RadCity 5 is now built into the frame so it wouldn't be a direct swap with older models. And it now uses a geared motor instead of direct drive. So the stock controller for older models probably isn't going to provide compatibility there.

--

For the time and effort, better off using a kit: https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motors-and-kits/products/radcity-and-radwagon-26-1500-watt-motor-kit

Recommended is 20-30 PSI:
https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360022541053-Tire-Performance-and-Replacement-Information

What stock components do you actually have?

The only model that comes to mind that would be compatible is the RadCity. Because they use the same drive motor.

I'd probably recommend going aftermarket anyway:
https://electrobikeworld.com/products/35a-controller-rad

That'll give you a lot more flexibility in your configuration. Those folks also have a ton of parts.


Ya know. Ebikes have a little ways to go before they're like cheap and common enough to just throw together on a shoestring budget.

Quote from: Acitta on September 18, 2021, 01:11:18 PM
I have the same problem with my RadCity ST3. Rad Power wants me to buy a new controller and wiring harness at CDN $199, but the wiring harness is out of stock. I don't want to spend that amount of money only to find out that it is the the switch that is bad.

You can ask to "start with" replacing the display. They quoted me for a harness and controller as well.

These units are all pretty notorious for all sorts of brake noises. I had one where my rear wheel was making a scraping noise. Eventually able to diagnose it out after spotting some debris wedged against one of the brake pads.

Quote from: moparherb on September 17, 2021, 12:12:36 PM
I have a three week old RadRunner Plus that I really love. I have over 150 mile so far. Only one question or concern. When the bike is sitting still and I gently turn the handlebars one way or the other I get this noise, kind of sounds like a low volume goose call. I know that sounds stupid but I'm having a hard time describing the noise. It's not audible while I'm riding. It sounds like it could be coming from the area where the quick connect rod for the front wheel is located. But I have loosened and retightened that quick connect and the noise is still there. It's not a big thing but annoying if the bike is standing still and you move the wheel from side to side. Any help or advise appreciated.

Might be the brake pads. My bike sounds something like that with just about any slight movement.

Quote from: bpjohns on September 15, 2021, 05:26:39 PM
We have the situation where the green light stays on, won't go to red when plugged into the battery, and the battery is not charging.  Anyone have this or a suggestion?

Test/replace the battery fuse:
https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002324673-Battery-Fuse-Replacement-Guide

Quote from: deadbird8 on September 14, 2021, 12:49:21 PM

Quote from: SemperVee on September 14, 2021, 08:02:55 AM
Same no start problem for me while out on a ride.  Called Cust svc discovered handlebar box was roblem - Ordered  part under warranty on 4 Sep - NOW 13 Sep and no part in hand yet!   Tracking number but not delivered to USPS reported...   Warranties are only as good as the company behind them..

Source of my power loss turned out to be the Display/Switch too (I cross connected in from my wife's bike).    I sent that to Cust Svc and just received this in reply:
"The display I'm sending is not the City display but it is compatible with your City and you should not see or feel any differences. The only difference you will find is in the settings, which will need to be adjusted. "  Said they will ship the part in 3-5 days and marked the ticket 'solved'.       Is not having the OEM display a good thing?   I am concerned - who tested/vetted that part?

Sounds like they're sending you a display/button combo labelled for another model Rad. But the parts are compatible. You may have to change the tire size in the settings.

Honestly the information included in the product manual is sufficient for just about anyone with a good set of tools. Unless you mean electronic components?

Rad's knowledge base is a great resource as well: https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/sections/360005403554-RadRunner

The brake lever uses a hall sensor to determine motor cutoff and brake light. You can unplug or check for brake light illumination.

Probably stray away from using WD-40 as well. It's not really an appropriate lubricant to use around the gearing. You shouldn't need it anyway. Just get yourself a small breaker bar if you want it easier to get the bolt off.

I keep the stock tools on my bike which can be used in a pinch, as well as spare tubes. For home I'd suggest investing in a basic set of ok quality tools to fit in a tool bag. Those would be better for basic service like pulling off the wheel.