Most of you know I've been running a Phaserunner controller for several months. I made most of the wiring harness from scratch, but there were a few bits of original wiring that remained due to the connectors. I had purchased a device called a Battery Blender (also known as the Dx2 in the UK) last summer, but sent it back because it could only handle 30 amps. The device allows the connection of multiple batteries of different voltages, and when they came out with higher powered units, the company I purchased the device from had offered to send the 90 amp version to me at no extra charge. Installing the Battery Blender the way *I* wanted to meant moving my primary power connections to someplace accessible, so I picked underneath the front of my rear rack.
The last weak link in the electrical system happened to be the most important, and that was the main power feed to the controller itself. This link still had the two pin Rad connector in case I needed to switch out the Phaserunner, but after two thousand miles, I think it's proved it's reliability. I have purposely kept my power levels down because of this connection only having 16 gauge wires, and I pulled the wiring apart, I found the connectors on both ends had overheated.
The new wiring is 12 gauge from the batteries, and the main line to the controller is now 10 gauge instead of 16.
I'm still working out a technical issue with the Battery Blender, but the new wiring alone gave the bike a power boost even without changing the controller settings. After testing, I upped the controller power to 2800 watts and tested some more, and all the wiring stayed cold. Like mentioned earlier, my wiring "hub" is now under the rear luggage rack, and in the photos below the bike is upside-down with the rear fender and wheel removed. The black mount for the loose connectors was custom made out of XT-90 panel mounts, and spark-less XT-90s were used all around.