If you like excellent brakes I would suggest Magura MT5E. Pair them with big quality rotors and you have awesome braking power and modulation.

Yeah. This was first test with everything set up ready. Installed temp sensor and bluetooth real time logging system together with higher gauge motor wiring. Need this system as I'm preparing to install custom 60A controller (also 60V) to replace this 48A.

Quote from: Altema on April 03, 2022, 07:04:06 AM

Quote from: JTK77 on April 03, 2022, 01:42:41 AM
Just a side note  Phaserunner is ~40-45A peak battery current and up to 96A phase current.
So @ 52v ~2700w peak.

Perhaps you are thinking of the lower capacity Baserunner? The Phaserunner software only permits settings in the allowable range, and the upper limit for peak battery current is 96.5 amps. They recommend 40 amps, but 96 is allowable. I have mine set to 60 amps, and have seen motor peaks of 2980 watts. However I may have overlooked something, and will double check.

No. Phaserunner is 96A phase current.
https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/phaserunner.html

G062.1000.DC @ 3kw. This is how fast (<2 minutes) motor core (windings) temperature rises when doing accelerations throttle only 3000w. Ambient temperature = start temp ~11 degree celsius. Cooling is no wind standstill.

Quote from: Altema on April 02, 2022, 05:01:09 PM
With apologies to those who brought us the Wizard of Oz 

I dug through my files and found my battery range test sheets. A blank spreadsheet is attached if anyone wants to know what type of data I collected. The efficiency of all four types of controllers I used is listed below. The reason I used watt hours instead of amp hours, is because amp hours is voltage dependent. A 14Ah battery will store more or less energy depending on the voltage, but 500 watt hours will always be the same amount regardless of voltage.

A stock Rad battery is 14Ah @ 48 volts nominal, which is 672 watt hours total. To get the range, divide the total watt hours of the battery into the watt hours per mile, and that will give you the maximum mileage for using the battery up. These tests were performed with conservative pedal assist (levels 2 and 3).

Power usage per mile, listed in order of testing.
Stock Rad controller: 16.8 watt hours per mile, 39.95 mile range at this rate of use.
25 amp controller: 26.88 watt hours per mile, 25 mile range at this rate of use.
35 amp controller: 22.4 watt hours per mile, 30 mile range at this rate of use.
Phaserunner controller: 20.5 watt hours per mile, 32.78 mile range at this rate of use.


Now, each controller has it's own power capacity, and that can make a big difference in range if you are joy riding with the throttle. Another list is below, but this time it's maximum power with the battery as used by me. The reason for the "observed" power is that electrical resistance and efficiency losses take a bite out of the mathematically perfect score, and will be lower. No "observed" power level for the Phaserunner because I don't own a motor that will handle that much. The Rad is hard limited to 750 watts day and night, and if struck by lightning, may go to 752 ⚡ .

16 amp Rad controller: 48 volts, limited to 750 watts
25 amp controller: 52 volts, 1300 watts, 1170 observed
35 amp controller: 52 volts, 1820 watts, 1741 observed.
96 amp Phaserunner controller: 52 volts, 4992 watts.

I just thought the info might be useful or entertaining to some, so let me know if you have any questions.

Just a side note  Phaserunner is ~40-45A peak battery current and up to 96A phase current.
So @ 52v ~2700w peak.

Quote from: Si1Dia on March 09, 2022, 02:33:49 PM
you could buy the current rad throttle that does work with the older electrical systems. I have also heard some say you can take the switch apart and connect the wire inside together to bypass the switch, but I have not tried this. i just ordered a new one from Rad without the switch.

Yes . Easy Job. Did just that few years ago before changing to annother throttle.

Quote from: Kkameny on March 09, 2022, 10:03:24 PM
I'm looking to install a thumb throttle and full grips on my 2021 Rover 5. Any experience or suggestions would be great. Thanks.

Wuxing 130X throttle, full MTB grips. Red devil Pro riser handlebar etc.

Current setup on my Rhino.

- Controller 60v 64A (custom).
- 60v 24Ah lockable downtube battery, 120A BMS (custom) + G80 60V 17.5Ah = 60V 41.5Ah
- Vented high KV G062.1000.DC motor with real time BT temp logging system, higher gauge wiring and reglued magnets
- Magura MT5E brakes, Galfer f223/r203 rotors
- Shimano 8 speed trigger with 11-42t cassette.
- Derailleur hanger extender (modded)
- 52t Deckas chainring
- XLC CR-A19 chainguide (modded)
- double torque arm (DIY)
- STD zero Pro pedals
- 780mm Pro Devil 30mm riser bar
- Wuxing 130X thump throttle
- full mountaingrips
- 3*T6 "30w" headlight
- 120mm Air fork with rebound adj and remote lockout.
- Red smooth II suspension seat post
- custom kydex "carbon" skid plate
- Peak 4kw power.
- Over 40mph.
- 0-20mph ~2.5sec
+ Some other mods & parts

Quote from: Altema on September 26, 2021, 06:51:01 PM
JoseM beat me to it 😁, but I'm posting this as a conversion because it required some changes to the bike. The setup just before this was a Phaserunner controller, Tesla batteries, and a 750 watt "upgrade" motor. The bike was at the place where I was happy with the performance, control, and range. So what was the problem? The motor was the weak link in the system. The batteries are great, the controller will handle up to 7000 watts, but the motor itself was at it's limit and I had to be careful. The new motor is a Bafang RM C062.1000.D 06, and produces more torque at the same power levels, without stressing itself.

There were two major things to overcome. One is that the motor casing was different, which required the wheel be disassembled and re-laced. The second is that, in my case, the connector was different. They do have the Julet connector available (same as Rad uses), but mine has the L1019 connector which screws together. I could have cut up my custom harness, but decided to just order the part which made it ALMOST plug and play 😂

The bigger deal was getting the new motor casing laced into the wheel, and after having some difficulty fitting it into my schedule, I decided to do it myself.

I took measurements after the tire was off, and recorded the spacing of the brake rotor on one side, and the inside of the spoke flange on the other. I loosened the spokes in steps to prevent the rim from being pulled out of round, then removed the spoke in pairs (photo 1) and my assistant put them on the new motor. Then came putting the spokes back onto the rim, and once I recognized the over/under pattern, it was pretty easy. I installed the spoke nipples with two threads showing on each spoke, then systematically began tightening them up. After that I put the brake rotor back on (photo 2), then mounted the wheel on the upside-down bike to "true" the wheel. With a cable tie on the fender brace, I cut the cable tie so it was almost touching the rim (photo 3). First came centering the wheel vertically in relationship to the axle centerline (I don't want to be bouncing up and down!), then making sure the rim is "round". The last step is adjusting for any left to right variations, and once that was done, I re-installed the rim liner, tire, Tannus Armour liner, and the tube. When I mounted the wheel on the bike for the final time, I used an additional torque washer on the outside of the left, and gently applied rotational pressure to the axle when tightening the nuts, in the direction the axle would naturally go when the motor torque is applied. If anyone would like a more detailed description of why I did this, let me know.

For the electrical side (and this is different because of the Phaserunner), I took off the old motor connections, and installed the new section between the controller and motor which consists of the three phase wires, the hall sensor wires, and connections for speed and motor temperature. The motor cable comes out of the left side instead of the right, and goes between the frame and the brake rotor (photo 4), so you'll need a cable tie to keep the rotor from damaging it. My cable had a big unprotected section where the wires go to the three different connectors, so I had to be creative with the shrink tubing to protect it. With the wiring done, you have to program the Phaserunner for the new motor. This motor is oriented the opposite way from the Rad and Bolton motors (to allow the cable on the other side), but there's a setting to handle that. I loaded the parameters for the "Bafang G60 Fat" motor into the Phaserunner setup program on my laptop, then ran "Autotune" before making any other adjustments.

On the first test ride with the same power levels as the old motor, the extra torque was obvious. Even in class 2 economy mode, the bike felt perky and satisfying. I could feel it in class 3 and unlimited modes as well. So, I'm a happy camper, and I don't have to worry about pushing the motor too hard to get the results. Again, let me know if you have any questions!

Good Job 👍

Quote from: javier@mrclickco.com on November 12, 2021, 11:33:14 AM

Quote from: George3 on March 06, 2021, 08:05:46 PM
JTK77,

Am trying to identify the Galfer rotors that you used but I am not sure of the exact model. F223/R203

I just purchased the higo Closer ones on Amazon, and I was wondering if they will work  straight away if I don't change the 180 rotors front and rear? Will I have to get an adaptor?

Thanks for the help.

Javier

George

You could use them straight but Maguras are designed to work optimally with 2.1mm thick rotors so Its would advice doing that.

Quote from: buster on November 10, 2021, 07:03:27 AM
Even though Rad saids they are not comparable can anyone see any reason why I can't put my Rad Runner 14 amp battery on my Rad mission bike to give me longer range.  They have the exact mounting tabs and electrical plug and both are 48 volt batteries .  Only difference is a extra row of cells for more capacity .

No problem doing so. You can do that without problems. Its most propably same as with other parts. Rad will only sell you spareparts originally  ment for the model (and year).

Stock controller light circuit output is less than 100mA. For the popular 35A controller upgrade its the same.
I have my custom 60v 48A controller on which I have modded the light circuit to increase power slightly. This is just enought to run decent headlight.

Quote from: CaptainAdam on October 06, 2021, 10:05:28 AM
Please help if you know the answer.  I am a geek but not when it comes to Ebikes.  I am looking to upgrade my display with a Bafang hub motor 750 display. The requirement says it has to be a UART protocol. I have a 2020 Rad rover 5. Does anyone know if Rad uses the Bafang that supports UART? Has anyone done the screen upgrade?

Thanks
Captain Adam

You need to change also the controller to Bafang to make it work. Bafang light system is normally 6v so new lights too.

Quote from: Altema on October 18, 2021, 06:41:39 PM

Quote from: JTK77 on October 17, 2021, 09:41:48 PM

Quote from: Altema on October 17, 2021, 09:15:49 PM
Well I turned it up, and what a blast. With the smaller wheels on the RadMini, the torque is hilarious, and I'm getting 34mph with a modest amount of field weakening.
I had a question though: how many amps is the BMS on your battery, and do you run with a single battery or duals?

Sounds awesome 👍

Im running single battery setup. I have a spare one too. The left one in picture is my main battery. My custom design lockable downtube battery. BMS is 120A continous and 400A burst.

120A continuous and 400a burst? Color me jealous! My small batteries are 30A and my larger batteries are only 40A! My UPP 52V 40A battery is in the same case as yours on the right, which is problematic because 2400W @ 52V is 46.15 amps, and that makes me a bit uncomfortable putting that much stress on a single battery. Today I did try it with the one battery, and it did supply a peak of 50A, but still not comforting. I'm thinking I might pull the power back down because I was riding with traffic (it does 34mph easy now), but the cable to the motor got warm. I would leave both batteries in which gives me 80A to play with, but I pick up our 10 year old from the bus, and have to pull off the rack battery to bolt on the seat.

Yes. The design inputs for the battery was to have very robust lockable downtube battery that has very low internal resistance (higher controller output power, high efficiency, higher practical capacity), supports high amp charging, fits the bike style.
Battery casing (Lexan) I have tested with 9mm 🙂

Quote from: Altema on October 17, 2021, 09:15:49 PM
Well I turned it up, and what a blast. With the smaller wheels on the RadMini, the torque is hilarious, and I'm getting 34mph with a modest amount of field weakening.
I had a question though: how many amps is the BMS on your battery, and do you run with a single battery or duals?

Sounds awesome 👍

Im running single battery setup. I have a spare one too. The left one in picture is my main battery. My custom design lockable downtube battery. BMS is 120A continous and 400A burst.