Quote from: Altema on October 01, 2022, 07:32:43 AM
Wow! 😲
What motor you using?

Still same modified G062.
I'm now planning rewinding project. First trying to source cheap donor motor (broken, burned etc).

After latest upgrades the beast now puts out whopping 114A @ 60V (Peak) and levels to 80A.

Quote from: K2WW on September 14, 2022, 04:06:11 AM
JTK77-What's this KV you speak of?

Motor parameter. Simplified explanation is how many revolutions per volt the motor is turning at certain input voltage when not loaded.
Example 48 volt battery will turn 10rpm/V (KV) motor ~480rpm (per min).

Quote from: JimInPT on August 31, 2022, 11:24:25 AM
Am I misremembering about a speed-limiting circuit in the Rad-spec motor?  I seem to recall discussion about how even a higher-voltage battery won't make them spin faster, like the Bafang-branded motors do.  I'm happy with 25mph on my MiniST, so have never pursued this aspect very far.

I have some experience with these motors. There is no speed limiting circuit but loaded speed (aka real topspeed on road) is combination of motor phase input voltage, motor KV and motor phase input current.
Increased voltage alone does not nesessarily increase topspeed alot of current is limiting.
Motor no load speed increased very close to linear with increasing voltage.
There is reason why topspeed and no load speed varies with individual "Rad motors". Rad has used motors with some different KVs. This is indicated by motor turn count number. As a result using controller and display without speed limit hard code max (40km/h) no load speed can be seen to vary.

Quote from: JimInPT on August 26, 2022, 07:29:36 AM

Quote from: Hugh on August 25, 2022, 09:19:23 PM
I just installed a Bafang 1000W rear hub.  What a difference.  There are photos of the stock RAD motor armature next to a Bafang 750W armature that shows how much smaller the RAD armature is compared to a Bafang 750W armature.

There are also photos showing that a lot of that "bigger" motor space is empty.  DickB and Altema here on the forum are experts in this area.  If you experience a performance improvement, it may be due to the lack of speed-limiting circuits built into the Rad motor, if I remember correctly.

No speed limiting circuit in Rad (Bafang) motors!
More copper (strands in multistrand winding) in 750w motor. Little more torque and efficiency as result.

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on August 12, 2022, 05:03:52 PM
It appears that whatever method the bikes are using to calculate speed and distance are wrong.  Riding with my GPS today, speed is fast by at least 2mph, which I believe leads to calculated distance being incorrect as well. 

Taking the same route I always do, with the default RR controller as well as with the 35A controller, distance for that route is 10.5miles.  Today, GPS reported it as 8.8M.  I have never measured it with a car though. 

Top speed was showing about 26.2mph, but the GPS is registering it as 23.4.

You're not riding as far or as fast as you think you are.

What wheel size setting you are using? Change it to closest possible. RadRover closest depending on tire used is 28-29"
Runner would be ~23" but that setting not available in LCD8h. 24" is bit toi high.

Quote from: JimInPT on August 07, 2022, 10:32:22 AM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on August 05, 2022, 01:34:04 PMStill not seeing a speed greater than 25mph though unless I'm going down hill.

Right, you won't see a speed increase with just the controller/display upgrade - it provides more torque for acceleration and hillclimbing, but without higher voltage from the battery you won't get more speed.  Even a battery upgrade alone won't do it (although the new controller can handle at least 52V setups), because the Rad factory motor has speed-limiting internal circuitry.  You'd also need a motor swap for more speed; I don't think I've heard of anybody figuring out a way to defeat that circuit.

I do love the 35A controller on my MiniST2 and 25mph is fine for me under motor power - I can hit about 36mph downhill with pedaling and that's approaching scary for my bike's geometry and my age.  I once took one of my motorcycles up to 137mph one time (certified by Oregon highway patrol radar - he brought his along on our group ride so everybody could see for sure how fast they could go, heh-heh) so I've gotten the 2-wheel need for speed out of my system some time ago.

And that's a cute pup.

There is absolutely no speed restricting circuit in Rad motor. Its just the KV of that motor. Only speed limiter is the limit set on display.
Higher voltage increases no load motor rpm linear with voltage.

Quote from: Altema on August 06, 2022, 01:20:32 PM

Quote from: Altema on August 05, 2022, 07:19:11 AM

Quote from: Omidia Ramin on August 04, 2022, 01:22:38 PM
I hate to hijack a thread, and I?m not sure if this counts, but I think you?se have the answer (those on this thread:-) )

I have a motor (the one out of the mini 4) with a broken axle. It?s been replaced, but I?ve kept the motor, if for nothing else wall was art.

How feasible/possible is it to replace an axle on these things?

Would be nice to have a spare and send like a shame since the rest works.  Should I perish the thought or what??

Anyways, thanks for any thoughts!!

I loaned my original RadMini motor out so can't check, but on my other Bafang motors, it looks like you can remove the axle. It will be complicated though because you'll have to remove the wiring that goes through the axle, feed it back through, and resolder it. Might not be worth all the work.

Hey, I just found a video on replacing the axle! Here's a link if you want to see what's involved in this job...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tb3mXqU1CJs

The most hardest part is to source new axle (with decent price).

Quote from: Altema on August 05, 2022, 06:36:03 AM

Quote from: JTK77 on August 04, 2022, 09:47:48 AM
Permabond ET5441 heat cured after 24h  in 85?C 30min.

Thanks! I've got 4 motors I needs to do... any tips on cleaning the old glue off?

Cleaned first with acetone and scraper tool. Then prepared surfaces with 400 grid and removed dust.
Just before applying the epoxy cleaned the surfaces with acetone again.

Quote from: SanDiego101 on August 02, 2022, 04:40:37 PM
Thank you.

Why is this relevant please?

"The stock style motor connector (z916) is not the best option but L10 instead. Your controller is of course with z916."

Z916 connector is rated 25A and is the weakest link to fail if constant higher currents are used. Being carefull enough you can get away using it thought

Quote from: Altema on August 04, 2022, 01:59:33 AM

Quote from: JTK77 on August 02, 2022, 12:43:13 PM

Quote from: Altema on August 01, 2022, 04:36:25 PM
I mentioned in another thread that I did a motor swap in Delaware. This was due to a hall sensor failure, but as things turned out, I'd ordered a replacement motor that was supposed to arrive after my trip, but it arrived the day before the trip, so I took it with me! The new motor worked fine, but after a high speed ride alongside gas bikes, I noticed an odd noise that sounded like gears slipping. I pulled the motor apart and found the nylon gears were fine, so I switched the clutch out, and still had the noise.

The ring gear tested fine as well, then I saw it: The replacement motor was missing the internal lacing! That's the string-like cord used to secure the coils and other bits. Without it, the wires are subject to vibration and movement, and this leads to metal fatigue and failure. This is common is cheap throwaway motors, but motors built to last usually have the internal lacing, I was surprised Bafang went in this direction. The only reason to do so is because it's cheaper and saves time and materials. The motor itself works fine, and although the motor on the right is better made, it's out of commission due to the sensor failure. So I went to the hardware store, got some appropriate string, laced up the critical spots, glued the knots, and tested it. The noise is gone and I can use full power again, so we shall see how it holds up!

Not sure If its intentional or lack of QC.
What I recently noticed that the gluing of motor magnets was not accetable and failed. Now after fixing this issue together with other mods the motor is way better than new 😄

What glue did you use? I used CA on mine, but that glue has failed on other motors.

Permabond ET5441 heat cured after 24h  in 85?C 30min.

Quote from: SanDiego101 on August 02, 2022, 10:28:18 AM
Hi all,

I need advice.

I have a Radwagon 4, 52v battery, Bolten controller and a 750 Bafang Hubbody (Placed it in the existing Radwagon hub) Would a 1000x Bafang hub make this bike faster? More torque? (That's what I want)

https://eunorau-ebike.com/products/bafang-fat-bike-48v1000w-rear-hub-screw-freewheel-motor?_pos=4&_sid=cc77833e4&_ss=r

Yes. More speed and torque..The stock style motor connector (z916) is not the best option but L10 insted. Your controller is of course with z916.

Quote from: Altema on August 01, 2022, 04:36:25 PM
I mentioned in another thread that I did a motor swap in Delaware. This was due to a hall sensor failure, but as things turned out, I'd ordered a replacement motor that was supposed to arrive after my trip, but it arrived the day before the trip, so I took it with me! The new motor worked fine, but after a high speed ride alongside gas bikes, I noticed an odd noise that sounded like gears slipping. I pulled the motor apart and found the nylon gears were fine, so I switched the clutch out, and still had the noise.

The ring gear tested fine as well, then I saw it: The replacement motor was missing the internal lacing! That's the string-like cord used to secure the coils and other bits. Without it, the wires are subject to vibration and movement, and this leads to metal fatigue and failure. This is common is cheap throwaway motors, but motors built to last usually have the internal lacing, I was surprised Bafang went in this direction. The only reason to do so is because it's cheaper and saves time and materials. The motor itself works fine, and although the motor on the right is better made, it's out of commission due to the sensor failure. So I went to the hardware store, got some appropriate string, laced up the critical spots, glued the knots, and tested it. The noise is gone and I can use full power again, so we shall see how it holds up!

Not sure If its intentional or lack of QC.
What I recently noticed that the gluing of motor magnets was not accetable and failed. Now after fixing this issue together with other mods the motor is way better than new 😄

Quote from: Ddaybc on July 06, 2022, 12:57:26 PM
That's a cool idea. I was reading elsewhere that a geared hub motor can be set up for regen as long as it doesn't have the clutch anymore. I don't remember if there was anything else one needed to do to make the whole thing work properly while applying power or using the regen.
Good job. Let us know how it turns out. 

Works great as expected.

Quote from: FortunatelyTheMilk on July 20, 2022, 09:40:02 AM
I've got a 2019 Rad Runner, with about 5000km on the stock battery and motor.
I've been running a 35A Controller for about 60% of that.
The battery is beginning to show its age, my napkin maths reckons it's down to 60% SOH compared to when new. Range from full is about 40km, wit a 50/50 mix of PAS1 and 100% throttle.
I'm considering replacing the battery with a higher voltage pack, and at the same time I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and upgrade the motor to get the most bang for my euro (assuming the stock motor goes bang if I don't upgrade it! ).

Higher top speed is the goal here, rather than acceleration (which is more than enough with the 35A brain!).



Has anyone run the 35A controller with a higher voltage battery pack?
Are there other higher power or higher KV motors available that are compatible with the 35A controller?

I know about the "true" 750W Bafang upgrade, and I've just seen some videos with a 3000W(!) motor, but that looks like a risky AliX purchase...

That 35A controller is 52v battery max. I do sell 40A  controller kits capable of 60v (17s) battery for G062.1000w motor.
I have my Rad modded 60v 64A with modded G062 motor. 42mph.