Quote from: Adams on July 15, 2022, 05:57:41 AM
Rad person on phone was helpful and pleasant. They were simply working down a decision tree matrix to check all the boxes before saying send in pics to verify warrant claim. Haven?t gotten a response from Rad yet, but there are no external signs of an arc or short that could have caused a blown fuse.
I did ride off road through some pretty bouncy stuff just before charging it. Maybe the fuse has a bad solder job and it loosened.
Jcvdd- any update on trying to solve it?
This is a distinct possibility. Over the past 2 decades or so, there's been a big push to use lead free solder due to the risk of exposure to lead. Unfortunately that comes with consequences, lead free solder has a tendency to be more brittle, and prone to breaking with sharp impacts. Much like you'd see on a bike. The joints can crack along very fine lines and sometimes they'll make contact and others they won't.
The quick way to fix it is to reflow the solder on the broken joints. The best way to fix it is to remove the lead free solder and flow in good solder. You can sometimes see the broken joints with your eye or under magnification.
Also, lead free solder has a greater chance of solder balls being left on the boards. Most of the time, they'll stay put, but they can break and roll into the circuit causing a short. Problem is, that you'll probably never find it because once you start tearing the device part, they fall out and they're tiny.
The last thing that can happen is solder whiskers. This is when the solder grows very fine hair like appendages that can reach out and touch other joints, causing shorts. Lead free solder is known to do this, and there's a reason that NASA and any company that produces products for the military doesn't use lead free, because they want their devices to work for the long term.
Don't want to get lead poisoning from your devices, don't lick the circuit boards.