Yes they are a good swap and yes you will need the 20x4 tubes. I prefer this set up to the CST.

When you opened the clamp outwards, did you remember you have to then lift the pin mechanism upwards ?

Wow, I thought your bike was already fast. That's really going for it.

I know nothing about the City as I have a mini. Does this bike have the integrated battery that can't be turned off ? So was this a live cable he was fitting the usb into ?

Would this cable connection be live ? Assuming the bike was switched off when stored.

Your bike has an inner tube that can be patched or preferably replaced with a new tube. Any bike shop should be able to do this. Better still, we as kids learnt to do it ourselves. Much better than pushing a heavy bike home. I'm 68 and can still do it on my own.

I get a lot more than that on my mini 4 but not accurately measured it on mixed riding. I do use pedal assist. Not sure if you are using pedal assist or throttle only.

Yep fitted them to my mini 4. Easy fit and works great.  Gareth is good to order from.

Yep, found it thank you.

Any thoughts on this new bike. Old battery style so you can turn it off. No suspension. No display. Step through only. Better colour scheme. Better handle bars. Price. https://youtu.be/rlmC8iS3l_4

Quote from: wkindred on August 04, 2021, 12:16:24 PM

we had our first issue with a bolton 35a controller last night. a group of us were riding with full lights on a little after 11 p.m. when one of the riders had his rad premium headlight do a slight flicker then went completely dark. we were unable to reset his headlight for the remainder of our ride and assumed the headlight had failed. we swapped headlights with another rad premium headlight but still no joy. we metered the headlight connection on the failed bolton 35a controller and it currently reads 5v when active...not good! any suggestions?

My front and rear tail light have now failed.  Brake light and flashing light still work.  We have now opened up the KT 35 amp controller to find a small circuit board has burned. The controller still powers the bike fine but not the lights. I was running with standard Rad lights which pull really minimum power . I have now heard a few other people with this problem so it seems like a fault with the KT 35 amp controller.

When I take my grandson to school on the seat on the back rack I get no problem. The seat is centred just a little behind the rear axle.                I also regularly carry a long heavy load on the rack that extends well beyond the centre of the axle, this shows a little of the steering wobble symptoms you describe. So it looks like a more rearward load will cause this.  Hopefully you have it sorted. My bike is a Radmini 4.  Tony.

250 watt euro spec is not much fun on an electric bike. The controller is restricting the power output. Change it to the 35 amp controller, also available in the U.K. it comes complete with a new display so you can then change your max speed. You also get full throttle use as well. 

I am running the 35 amp controller and very pleased with the performance peaking about 1650 watt on a Rad Mini.   The std front light has failed so I'm now using a rechargeable battery light.  Now the tail light has failed but the brake light still works. Looks like I'll buy a battery tail light now.   Tony.

I would also be interested to see this product.