Hi all! First post here. I have gotten a reply from Rad that I will have to replace the motor plug after the reviewed the picture sent here. Can that really be the case? I need my bike so bad so a week or two without it feels like months...
It is a 3 year old Radmission 1. I have used the eggrider for 1 of these 3 years and hence increased the speed from 25km/h (15mph) to 35km/h (22mph).
Any DIY tips and tricks appreciated :) Thanks!
Actions already taken:
I have checked both fuses and even changed them.
I have tried with my spare battery.
I have measured the voltage with a meter.
I have unplugged all wires and plugged them back together.
I have cleaned the battery connector. It was a lot of green (I suppose corrosion?).
I have tried with both the stock controller and an aftermarket (eggrider) controller.
Questions:
Do I need to change the battery connector since it has the corrosion (however, now gone)?
Should I try to order a wiring harness directly? Aftermarket ok?
Thanks again!
EDIT: Sorry, forgot to save the picture (new user here). Now it should be up.
Quote from: RadMagnus on January 19, 2024, 01:38:01 AM
... I have tried with my spare battery. ...
Well, that rules out issues with the keyswitch.
"Pictures here"? What pictures? [edit - I see it now, thanks.]
Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected?
Have you installed an aftermarket headlight? These have caused an overload of the controller.
My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring. I had to replace the connectors. You might have to do that or replace the cradle.
Quote from: John Rose on January 19, 2024, 09:43:03 AM
Quote from: RadMagnus on January 19, 2024, 01:38:01 AM
... I have tried with my spare battery. ...
Well, that rules out issues with the keyswitch.
"Pictures here"? What pictures?
Thank you very much for pointing that out! I've tried to upload but it fails. I'll try here in this reply as well.
Quote from: inoxa on January 20, 2024, 07:49:06 AM
Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected?
Have you installed an aftermarket headlight? These have caused an overload of the controller.
My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring. I had to replace the connectors. You might have to do that or replace the cradle.
Hi! Thanks for replying! I have now received a long instruction from Rad and I will try it tonight. This include disconnecting one connector after the other.
I Believe I did this when I was troubleshooting without success. But I will try again in a more structured fashion!
melted connectors, yikes!! I will have to check that.
Quote from: inoxa on January 20, 2024, 07:49:06 AM
Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected?
Have you installed an aftermarket headlight? These have caused an overload of the controller.
My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring. I had to replace the connectors. You might have to do that or replace the cradle.
And no - no aftermarket parts except for the eggrider...
Quote from: inoxa on January 20, 2024, 07:49:06 AM
Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected?
Have you installed an aftermarket headlight? These have caused an overload of the controller.
My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring. I had to replace the connectors. You might have to do that or replace the cradle.
This was green in the bottom before I cleaned it. I wonder if that's enough or if it needs to be replaced... I will update tomorrow after I've done all the steps in the guide from Rad...
Quote from: RadMagnus on January 22, 2024, 04:18:47 AM
This was green in the bottom before I cleaned it. I wonder if that's enough or if it needs to be replaced... I will update tomorrow after I've done all the steps in the guide from Rad...
I don't know how the pins are connected to the wires, but maybe corrosion affected those connections. I'd check continuity. When I saw no other way, I've shoved a sewing needle through the insulation to contact a wire.
If it turns out to be a defunct controller, when I had trouble with my Radmission controller, I replaced it with a 25 amp controller and display from electrobikeworld. The 25-amp version will fit where the OEM controller was, held by strong zip ties pulled tight. I put RTV on the matching surface of the seat tube to keep the controller from sliding.
I?ve went through all of Rad?s steps in the guide and it seems to be the wiring harness or battery connector. Does not turn on if I disconnect as per their instructions:
Pedal Assist Connector, Motor Connector, Taillight Connector, Rear Accessory Port (if nothing plugged in then continue), Brake Connector - left and right, Throttle Connector, Front Accessory Port (if nothing plugged in then continue), and Headlight Connector.
Once you crack open the cradle, you may see melted insulation around the wiring. That's what I had. The wiring in the battery is better insulated. The only reason I replaced the battery side was because the plastic melted and expanded and wouldn't fit into the cradle.
The 3 center pins are dummies. I think they are only used for aligning the battery into the cradle.
When one has connections that are covered in corrosion and the system has stopped working one needs to see where the problem lies. Corrosion can creep inside sealed wires as it is considered a galvanic type of growth. Where a wire goes, corrosion can follow. Thus the need for a continuity test. In this case check the continuity from the controller to each of the pins in the connector. If you have continuity in all of the pins/wires then you need to check continuity from the other part of the connector to the motor plug. Again, if continuity is good then check continuity from the other side of the plug to the motor.
It's the only way to see what part of the wiring you need to replace. Sometimes one can replace just one wire, other times just a part of a wiring harness. Often the entire harness needs to be replaced.
This test will also determine, if all of the continuity checks out OK, that it may be your controller and there's additional tests for that. I don't know how to test for a controller so, if this is your case, then others will need to chime in.
Quote from: Ddaybc on January 23, 2024, 12:21:15 PM
Where a wire goes, corrosion can follow. Thus the need for a continuity test. In this case check the continuity from the controller to each of the pins in the connector. If you have continuity in all of the pins/wires then you need to check continuity from the other part of the connector to the motor plug. Again, if continuity is good then check continuity from the other side of the plug to the motor.
I'd love to have wiring diagrams for my bikes to check continuity. How do you knew which pins are wired to which pins?
Quote from: handlebar on January 23, 2024, 01:50:58 PMI'd love to have wiring diagrams for my bikes to check continuity. How do you knew which pins are wired to which pins?
Me too. That, and a functional diagram
And a logic flowchart, for what I call "differential diagnosis".
::)
And a pony.
:-\
Okay. Never mind the pony.
Quote from: Ddaybc on January 23, 2024, 12:21:15 PM
When one has connections that are covered in corrosion and the system has stopped working one needs to see where the problem lies. Corrosion can creep inside sealed wires as it is considered a galvanic type of growth. Where a wire goes, corrosion can follow. Thus the need for a continuity test. In this case check the continuity from the controller to each of the pins in the connector. If you have continuity in all of the pins/wires then you need to check continuity from the other part of the connector to the motor plug. Again, if continuity is good then check continuity from the other side of the plug to the motor.
It's the only way to see what part of the wiring you need to replace. Sometimes one can replace just one wire, other times just a part of a wiring harness. Often the entire harness needs to be replaced.
This test will also determine, if all of the continuity checks out OK, that it may be your controller and there's additional tests for that. I don't know how to test for a controller so, if this is your case, then others will need to chime in.
Thank you! I might have to buy a multimeter...
Quote from: Ddaybc on January 23, 2024, 12:21:15 PM
When one has connections that are covered in corrosion and the system has stopped working one needs to see where the problem lies. Corrosion can creep inside sealed wires as it is considered a galvanic type of growth. Where a wire goes, corrosion can follow. Thus the need for a continuity test. In this case check the continuity from the controller to each of the pins in the connector. If you have continuity in all of the pins/wires then you need to check continuity from the other part of the connector to the motor plug. Again, if continuity is good then check continuity from the other side of the plug to the motor.
It's the only way to see what part of the wiring you need to replace. Sometimes one can replace just one wire, other times just a part of a wiring harness. Often the entire harness needs to be replaced.
This test will also determine, if all of the continuity checks out OK, that it may be your controller and there's additional tests for that. I don't know how to test for a controller so, if this is your case, then others will need to chime in.
The battery connector can't be that expensive. Anyone that knows where to get one fast online?
The battery connector can't be that expensive. Anyone that knows where to get one fast online?
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It isn't expensive. But you probably should buy both ends battery and cradle to be safe.
Amazon and ebay both have them in stock.
Here are your key words to search for it.
Hailong Battery Male and Female Connector Plugs
Here are search words
Hailong Battery Male and Female Connector Plugs
I got the ones with soldiered wiring attached
Hi again - so I'm ordering wiring harness and batteryconnector from Rad. It is going to cost me 36+36 euro plus shipping. Anything I should add to the order while I'm at it? The Radmission is 3 years old. Already got new battery, two displays. The PAS sensor is very exposed to moisture etc - is that something I should order or is it easy to get from 3rd party? Thanks!
Quote from: inoxa on January 25, 2024, 11:09:49 AM
Here are search words
Hailong Battery Male and Female Connector Plugs
I got the ones with soldiered wiring attached
Thanks! Just saw this one (didn't realized there was a new page to the thread). Ok, I will get that one!
Quote from: RadMagnus on January 26, 2024, 01:50:51 AM
Hi again - so I'm ordering wiring harness and batteryconnector from Rad. It is going to cost me 36+36 euro plus shipping. Anything I should add to the order while I'm at it? The Radmission is 3 years old. Already got new battery, two displays. The PAS sensor is very exposed to moisture etc - is that something I should order or is it easy to get from 3rd party? Thanks!
The PAS sensor is just a magnet so I don't think you will have problems with that.
If you don't want to install the connectors, I think RAD sells the battery cradle for $25US.
Quote from: inoxa on January 26, 2024, 06:11:35 AM
Quote from: RadMagnus on January 26, 2024, 01:50:51 AM
Hi again - so I'm ordering wiring harness and batteryconnector from Rad. It is going to cost me 36+36 euro plus shipping. Anything I should add to the order while I'm at it? The Radmission is 3 years old. Already got new battery, two displays. The PAS sensor is very exposed to moisture etc - is that something I should order or is it easy to get from 3rd party? Thanks!
The PAS sensor is just a magnet so I don't think you will have problems with that.
If you don't want to install the connectors, I think RAD sells the battery cradle for $25US.
Hi! Thanks. I researched the connectors and it wasn't that much more expensive to buy the cradle from Rad (36eur). Hopefully that or the wiring harness will do the trick.
The PAS sensor is just a magnet so I don't think you will have problems with that.
If you don't want to install the connectors, I think RAD sells the battery cradle for $25US.
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Hi! Thanks. I researched the connectors and it wasn't that much more expensive to buy the cradle from Rad (36eur). Hopefully that or the wiring harness will do the trick.
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How long will shipping take? Hopefully this is more than enough parts to get you back up and racing.