I own a rad rover 6 plus and the throttle and PAS stopped working. The bike has full power, headlight, tail light, and brake light all work properly. It has not shown any type of error code. I have disconnected every wire and reconnected with zero change. The brake pads could use replacing but still work properly, including the brake light when squeezing either brake lever.

There is a little red light near the pedals that flashes when the pedal is moving forward. When pedaling, the watts will show up to 003 watts but again no assist or throttle.

This has happened once before a few months ago. I powered the bike up and got no throttle or PAS. Began my ride home and about 5 minutes in, the throttle and pas kicked in and haven't had an issue since.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Pedaling a 70lb+ bike without assist isn't too fun.

If you upgrade the motor from area13, you can also upgrade the controller for it to work. They usually carry them both.

Maybe it just needs to be cracked open to see if the gears have movement.  May be full of water.  May be corroded. May need to dry it out. May need more grease.

It takes a special star type fitting to open the motor. I think I picked mine up at Lowes for about $14 a few years ago. 

I don't understand how a Rad motor could spin in the frame. Rad doesn't make frame mounted motors. Only hub drives. Maybe they have another customers bike confused with yours?

I believe the new safe shield batteries have circuit breakers instead of fuses. Not 100% sure though. I also don't have any information on how to reset the circuit breakers but I have a VERY distant thought of buying one for my RW4 as Rad says they will fit.

First time posting.

I have a Radrunner 2 purchased in 2021.  I have no power from my motor and the rear tire will not spin backwards.  The bike has a new controller from Rad and that works fine.  Tested it on other Radrunner 2. 
I live in Key West and I'm guessing between the salty air, heavy rain, and sometimes slightly flooded streets, the motor is seized up.  I'm looking for a replacement without much luck. 
Any suggestions on where I can find a replacement?  Area 13 says their 750 Bafang is not compatible.

Thanks for any help!

Naranja_CT5+ nice chain. 12 mm? That's big. I have a Kryptonite chain for my bike and it's about the same thickness I think. HEAVY. Are you sure a chain that big fit on your shackle?

Around 1970 I had a 10 speed road bike. It was expensive for the time and I used to bring it inside wherever I went. I kept it for a few decades and never had it stolen. I often had to explain what I was doing and why. No one objected. Sadly we can't do that anymore. Too many bikes and too few understanding people.
My current bike is a RW4 and I use a heavy Kryptonite chain lock, an older segmented and hardened bike lock similar to the Abus lock and an X3 Barronium D lock. Even though my bike's not worth much, as compared to a Tern cargo bike for example, I still don't feel comfortable leaving it for more than 30 minutes at a time.
At least with the Barronium D lock, it is so portable angle grinder resistant the thief would have to cut the bike stand and take my bike with the lock still attached. It would definitely make identification easier. LOL They would also have to cut the frame to remove it so, for them, it would make the bike worthless. The motor, controller and other parts not so much.

I would like the option for physical key, keypad, or a wireless fob under X feet away for an ebikes to start it up for an added layer of security.  I've carried either physical keys, fobs, smartphone, or a wallet for +50 years and it hasn't been an issue misplacing for home, work, vehicles, travel, etc...  This won't stop the determined thief; but, limit the random "opportunistic" thief that keep electric/mechanical wire cutters in a backpack.

I have two 2016 Radrovers, 2018 Radcity, and 2023 Radcity.  I had brake pad rubbing and it would come/go depending on the braking situation.  I sometimes pump the brakes and that can more center the pads and reduce the rubbing sound. I've noticed all four ebikes had various tension for the spokes from the factory.  Around half of the spokes required 1/2 to two 360 degree turns to have the same tension (just going by feel for equal tq all around).  I think I had more rubbing because spoke flex because of my weight on the ebike being +270lbs compared to my spouse at 130lbs.

I also noticed one of my disk brake rotor wasn't true.  I used an adjustable wrench to bend the front rotor more true and that lessen the disk wobble.

It seemed like I always had to adjust my brake pads every month to the right brake feel, reduce rubbing noise, and emergency stopping power.  I eventually upgraded the cable to Jagwire MTB and mechanical calipers to TRP Spyke:
- TRP Spyke are direct plug-n-play replacement for my 2016 Rad's brakes
- pulled out Rad brake cable from plastic sleeve,
- used the same sleeve to insert Jagwire cable (purchased the cable only),
- cut to length at the caliper,
- added wire cap, and
- adjusted brake pads (TRP Spyke have L/R pad adjustments).

The spouse's Radcity was fine with original braking system and she only put +/- 300 miles a year compared to my +2200 miles per year. I only need to adjust brake handle tension when the brake pads wore down, I have fine tuning with L/R adjustments, greatly reduced cable stretch with no broken cable strands, less rust/oxidation on cable, way less noise when braking, improved emergency stopping power, and I don't get glazed pads like I did with original brakes/pads.

Why not sell it "As is". It is rideable. Let the buyer worry about it.
No sense spending more money into it if you are selling it. Just clean it up and make it presentable.