Got a Garmin Edge 520 Plus to install today.
I don't just ride in my local area, I take it with me and I might be hundreds of miles from home.  In many places there isn't cell phone service.

There's a joint on one side of the basket on the top and bottom rails.  Maybe that's what' rattling.  I hear it on mine sometimes too.  Maybe a couple of turns of electrical tape to hold them tight?

Just had a can delivered this evening.  I'll be putting it in tomorrow morning.

Not until you tell it.

My mobile charging solution, since there isn't a direct DC charger that can be considered safe to use.

Nice case from Harbor Freight, it's a Pelican knockoff.  Seems to be fairly heavy ABS.


The inverter is bolted in place, the charger is held in with velcro straps and a couple of 3D printed pieces.



One of the vans only has one functional 12v port, so I added one into this so I can plug in the GPS, cellphone holder and dashcam.



Cooling down the battery so I can charge it.



When I'm charging in the van, I put the box, with the lid propped open on the floor, and the battery on the floor in front of my seat and then set the AC to the floor to keep the charger and the inverter cool.

I did blow the fuse in the 12v plug this morning because I didn't check it lastnight when I finished wiring up.  It was only a 1.5A fuse, and the entire setup draws more than 3A.

Quote from: DickB on August 09, 2022, 03:44:50 AM
Newer Rad semi-integrated batteries use surface mount fuses soldered to the BMS board. Wrapped in black plastic. Older ones are wrapped in blue plastic with more easily replaceable fuses, which can be replaced without completely disassembling the battery. I've not seen a video on replacing the newer version fuses. It can be done, but will take considerably more work.

I've replaced that type of fuse before.  It takes some work because of the lead free solder that they use.  Normally have to flow some good solder in with the lead free so that it can be removed, then replace the part with good solder.  Did the black/blue stuff seem to be soft or hard in the video?  If it's soft, then it's probably just hot melt glue that can be heated with a heat gun and then gently pulled off. 

Post a link to the video, I'll see what it would take. 

If it's not epoxied into place inside the casing, it can't be too difficult.

Blew a fuse, look to see if it can be replaced on that unit.

Just got done installing the PAS unit linked above. It does indeed work with the RR2 and probably other that have the same waterproof plug.  Installation was easy, took about 15 minutes from start to test ride.  Has a far longer cable than the other one so that took bit to tie up safely. 

Still waiting for my warranty replacement unit.

I do like my RR2, but I don't believe that the company is as innovative or plan things on their bike as well as they should.
The frames themselves, are well designed, and they seem strong, although heavy.  But that's ok, I bought mine to as a tool, a cargo bike to go shopping and survive the rigors of being hauled all over the place.
But, there's some issues that I think all their designs are going to have over the years.  One is the lack of stress relief on the wiring at the controller.  Those wires are stretched and bent too tight in that space.  That's eventually going to lead to wear and broken wires inside the insulation.  They only needed 1/2 or 1" more to make it better, but I'm sure the bean counters decided that saving those couple of pennies was better than building a long term reliable product.
Availability of spare parts in the next few years.  If they're cutting staff now, while people are still buying bikes like crazy it doesn't bode well for the long term.  If you guys haven't already started sourcing spare parts, do so now.  Especially the parts that you know you'll need, brakes, rotors, tubes and tires.  Source controllers and displays well.  If they go under you'll be needing to buy a new controller that's compatible without cutting into the wiring harness.
Leaving the charger plugged in past full charge.  If it's still supplying voltage once the light turns green, it ain't much.  I haven't measured to see if there's power there or not, but what I noticed today when recharging in the vehicle off the inverter is that once it got to full charge, it stopped drawing lots of current from the inverter.  The charger is still using power, since the LED is lit, but it doesn't seem to actually send anything to the battery.  I'll measure it when I get home today.
The default starting torque from the factory is dangerously low.  When trying to cross busy roads, you need that torque and speed to get you going quickly.  The torque provided by RP is too low, and it relies too much on pedaling to accelerate.  It doesn't need to be bumped up much, just a bit more would be helpful especially on heavy bikes such as these.  With the 35A controller installed, the torque is better tuned to a fast start.  I feel safer trying to get across intersections now.
Possibly more to follow.

Just got back from a 10 mile test ride.  The extra torque is nice for getting across busy intersections.  Did a few miles of paths, but mostly secondary roads and some main roads.  Went through two covered bridges.  It's working well.  Still not seeing a speed greater than 25mph though unless I'm going down hill.

Quote from: HeyRyGuy on August 05, 2022, 11:18:27 AM

Quote from: SDrider on July 22, 2021, 09:28:15 PM
If you have the Plus with the upgraded controller, you can easily upgrade the top speed to 25mph by pressing a few buttons. Not sure about the stock Runner though, the electric tape could be the only solution.

What is this button sequence?

Power on the bike, press the UP and DOWN buttons at the same time.  That takes you into the programming mode.  Using the Mode button scrolls through the options.  Use the arrow buttons to change the values.  Up the speed to 40KPH. 

It also just barely fits inside a Mercedes Sprinter.



I just got done upgrading it to the 35A controller and color LCD display.  Speed is cranked up to max, but it still only went a little more than 25mph.  Definitely more torque off the start though so that's good.

The only hard modification I had to do was drill one hole in the metal plate the controller mounts to.  It would have been nice if they gave just a little bit more wire for the motor and battery connections though.  It's a little snug under there.

Quote from: Radio Runner on August 03, 2022, 11:36:10 PM
Looks your going to be mostly on pavement. Do yourself a favor and order some CST Big Boats. They are so much smoother and don't sound like a swam of angry bees compared to those battery draining knobbies.

Well, not mostly, I'll be up and down farmlanes too.  Most of them are made from milled asphalt.  Besides, I like sounding like a swarm of angry bees.

Quote from: Altema on August 04, 2022, 01:58:13 AM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on August 02, 2022, 01:58:34 PM
Do you see that black part with the 3 legs on the left side of each motor?  That's the hall effect component.  I'd bet it's a fairly common device that could be easily replaced if you just have a soldering iron and some solder wick to remove the old solder.

Yes, I just need a source for the sensors. I wonder if the sensors from the Bolton motors would fit, since I have three of those failed motors on my workbench right now.

If the head of it lifts off the board, then look at the number, chances are Mouser has it.  I might even have some in my parts.