You cannot ever trust that different manufacturers are going to use the same color wires. You need to know the actual wiring of each device.  When I'm doing such things, I normally make a charge

RED                            REDBLk                             BLkGRN                            WHTBRN                            BLU
Then I determine what each wire on each side is, then match them up.  I'll draw lines from one side to the other so I know how to wire it up.  Normally RED is going to be voltage, but Black is not always ground, sometimes white is ground.  Sometimes brown is input voltage. 

Make sense?

My corgie pup fits in this one from Rad.

She's gotten used to it, she's not gonna get much bigger than she is now, so she should fit in the future.

I'll go out and measure the hole spacing in a little bit and let you know. 

They just don't care.  On my initial order for my bike, I caught their support people in multiple lies regarding why shipments were so screwed up.  They completely ignored it.  So much for this on their site:


World-Class Product Support

With tens of thousands of five-star reviews under their belts, our in-house product support team is the best in the business. They love troubleshooting, are happy to talk you through your options, and will always make it right.

Having a hard time putting your bike?s issue into words? No problem! Just send us a pic or a short video and we?ll get back to you with some straight-forward advice.

I the PAS sensor for my RR2 went bad.  I spent a long time trying to talk to someone.  I finally got to, and explained the problem, they said they'd send out a replacement sensor.  They knew which bike I had, but I still got the wrong part, and that took 10 days to arrive.  In the meantime, knowing my experience with them from my initial order, I found a compatible sensor on Amazon, which I got in 2 days. I had it installed and working long before the wrong part arrived.

Why not buy both?  SAE is still commonly used in various things.  I have multiple sets of both among my various tool boxes cause you never know what you're going to encounter.

Quote from: joeliniowa on August 22, 2022, 08:46:46 PM
I just got my RadRunner Plus.  I thought the "Plus" things made a good combination.  Now their 3 special bundles...NFW.  They look like a racket!  I'm spending about the same $2K getting mostly what I want.  I found out the "large platform" is too big for my elevator. BUMMER.  I see what dimensions the "Large Basket" has.  That may work...or it will go back. 

I'm still getting my battery tuned, but still that range had got to improve. 
I'm thinking about a "solar road trailer"... using a Burley Flatbed Cargo Trailer.  It's $299 local shop, so I'll look around.   There's a YouTube guy that built an Arduino control for his ridged pannel with a light sensor, to follow the sun as it goes.  That's cool.  I'd add a DATEX-3, and add a big hand built cube, or some off the shelf retail units.  That's a few years away. 

Good luck to you.  Did you post your stl to Thingiverse? what's the item # on the Amazonian thing.    

Thank you!

JLH

Not on Thingiverse yet. I had taken a break from putting stuff up, and when I came back they screwed up their system again and I haven't gotten into my account since.  I'm still waiting on my machinist to make them out of aluminum.  He's a retired guy that's still working so I don't want to rush him.

How much of it is Rad's design vs them just buying whatever is available off the shelf? 

That's a pretty shitty design.  It's not only end user unfriendly, it's trained technician unfriendly.

Quote from: rjp on August 20, 2022, 06:13:46 PM
I haven't seen any videos on the surface mounted, soldered in fuses yet.   

If you can get to the fuse, it shouldn't be difficult to replace.  The problem is the lead free solder that's used.  It's difficult to remove, it doesn't flow in solder wick.  The easiest way to remove it is to carefully flow some good solder in with the bad solder, and then it will wick, but it will still be difficult.  That can all be done with a common fine tip soldering iron.  You do have to be careful that you don't short anything out while you're wicking it.

If the battery can be disconnected from the circuit board before you start, do that.  If not, be very careful.

I have not been inside one of these packs, but removing SMD parts is difficult, but not impossible.  Once you get the part removed, flow some more good solder onto the pads, and wick it back off.  That will make sure you get all the bad solder off.  Then flow some good solder back onto the pads.  Then you can solder the fuse into place.

Be careful that you don't scratch up the board while you're trying to remove the old solder.  Also, don't overheat the pad, that can cause the pad to delaminate from the board.  It can be fixed if you do that, but it's far more difficult.

If you hands aren't steady, don't attempt this.  Soldering SMDs is precise work.

Finally got around to putting it in this morning before I have to head to work.  Took it for a quick test ride.  Either it's the flatout or I got the tire bead seated better, but I no longer sound like a swarm of angry bees, now I sound like a swarm of mildly annoyed bees.

Quote from: Tree on August 16, 2022, 10:10:33 AM

Quote from: tacomanatx on August 16, 2022, 05:37:14 AM
If Im out and about with it I'll lock the bike but never thought to take the battery off.   Dont you need the key anyway in the right position to get it off?

i can't speak for EVERY Rad Bike, but I'm pretty sure most of them have a universal key - meaning anyone can buy that blank and take your battery off.

Just to clarify that.  You don't need to buy a blank and have it cut.  The blank will open the lock.  That's been known for 2 years, and they've done nothing about it.  That makes them slightly worse than the entire Masterlock Company, because at least you can't do the same thing with any Masterlock lock.

Since I live in such an area where crime is low and professional bike thieves are non-existent I don't take my battery with me, but I do turn it off and leave it locked.

I also have an alarm on my bike that's built into the horn, and the only place I leave it locked right now is the grocery store and the cart wranglers keep an eye on it for me.

I put the 35A controller on my RR.  I didn't get it from where you're saying, but it's probably the same thing.  Install was easy enough.  I did have to drill one hole through the skidplate to mount the controller.  The rear hole lined up with the existing one. 

Toughest part was getting the wires routed.  The motor connector didn't want to slip by the fender.  Had to gently pry the fender away from the frame to get it to pass. 

There's also a rubber grommet where the cables come down from the front.  You'll have to pry that out without scratching the paint and then get it back in.  There's a connector inside the frame you'll need to get to for the new controller.

I hope you didn't twist those connectors while connecting/disconnecting them.  The contacts in those water proof connectors are very thin and easily bent or broken.  Make sure the alignment slot on the connectors is properly aligned before pushing them together, do not twist at all.

Got my warranty replacement unit earlier this week.  Glad I wasn't relying upon it, it's the wrong part.

It appears that whatever method the bikes are using to calculate speed and distance are wrong.  Riding with my GPS today, speed is fast by at least 2mph, which I believe leads to calculated distance being incorrect as well. 

Taking the same route I always do, with the default RR controller as well as with the 35A controller, distance for that route is 10.5miles.  Today, GPS reported it as 8.8M.  I have never measured it with a car though. 

Top speed was showing about 26.2mph, but the GPS is registering it as 23.4.

You're not riding as far or as fast as you think you are.