Try it again in a vacuum.   Your variances could be answered by wind resistance.

This isn't going to help Radpower: https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2022-08-05/e-bike-crash-death-daughter-manufacturer-to-blame-rad-power-bikes
I've read several articles about this now.  I do not see how this is RP's fault, but of course, they family wants to go after who has the money, and not who's actually at fault. 

The bike belonged to the 13yr old sister of the 11yr old that crashed.  Molly was riding on the back and got thrown as they rolled down hill at a high rate of speed.  The 11yr old claims the bike started to wobble as she tried to apply the brakes which didn't slow them down.  Molly was thrown and injured and died in the hospital several days later.
They family is claiming that RP is negligent because of a defective design and the fact that the manual only says that no one under 18 should ride the bike on page 49 of a 57 page manual. 

1st, obviously no one in the family that owned the bike read the manual, and if they did, they ignored it.  It wouldn't have mattered if it was on page 1, they bought the bike for their 13yr old daughter.
2nd, Molly and her parents obviously didn't read the manual before she went for the ride.
3rd, chances are the brakes needed adjustment if they failed to stop the bike.  I don't know about you guys, but it seems as though every week I have to adjust my rear brakes so they're not spongy.  I don't consider that a design defect, it's just the brakes wearing.
4th the lack of riding experience of the 11yr old contributed greatly to the crash.
This is a tragedy, but it isn't RP's fault.  Lots of other people made mistakes that allowed this to happen.

Seems kind of silly to promote "cleaner" transportation methods then limit them to power that makes them virtually useless

Make sure the tire bead is seated evenly around both side of the wheel.

Can't be sure from the photo, but it appears the fuse is the white rectangular component on the right side of the photo.  It's soldered to two large traces.  See if you can research what markings are on that component.

If it were me, I'd tighten it down till it's just snug without cracking the plastic with just a small dab of BLUE loctite on the threads.  That should hold it in place without needing to over do it

Looks pretty clear to me that those two torx screws were over tightened.  Stress fractures around the hole and partial stripping of the heads due to the over tightening.

The chargers get hot, all chargers generate heat, and the amount of heat generated is directly related to the amount of current they're pushing.  These chargers are pushing a lot of current therefore they're going to get hot. 

Personally, I'm not worried about the charger starting a fire.  It's the battery itself that you need to worry about.  If you are concerned about the heat from the charger, something as simple as a desk top fan blowing across it while it's charging will keep the temp down.  Have it blow across the battery too, but I doubt it'll have that much of an effect on the battery. 

What I've noticed with the innovation of these bikes is that the designers never heard of the term "stress relief".  Wires down there at the controller should not be bent as sharply as they are.  There's a good possibility something has snapped inside one of those cables throwing the Error 21. 

To troubleshoot it that condition, you'd have to open the control module, and then do a continuity test between all the connections on the board inside and the connectors on the outside.  Fixing it would be just a matter of replacing that cable, which will probably involve some desoldering and "re" soldering.
I think most of those cable pigtails can be purchased on Amason.
It's also possible that a solder joint on the board cracked due to them getting these things from China and that they use leadfree solder.  Leadfree solder is more brittle and takes more skill to solder, and the slave labor they use over there does really crappy solder work.  Good solder is far more forgiving with high speed soldering, than lead free.

You can open the controller and look for bad solder joints.  Try moving poking at them with a dental pick, see if they move at all.  I'd say look for cold joints, by looking at the ones that are dark and not reflective, but it's probably lead free so finding them that way is far more difficult.
If you're unsure if a joint is good or bad, just reflow it with a hot soldering iron.  You can flow good solder in with the bad solder and it'll work fine. 

I printed this one from Thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4911927

I modified this one to be just a solid piece and to make it fit a little more snug.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4898117

Quote from: Radio Runner on August 25, 2022, 06:22:20 PM
Interesting. The rad supplied switching power supply wipes out entire bandwidths when I charge the battery that?s for sure.

Which, if that device were made in the US, the FCC would never let it be sold because it's interfering with communications.  But since they come from china, who gives a fuck, the FCC doesn't.

I've seen USB chargers in cars wipe out the FM radio band.

My helmet is able to connect to my phone via bluetooth.  The first time I tried it just to play some music to see if it worked, every time I pedaled, the music would wash out with digital static.  I figured it was shitty circuitry on the controller or motor's part and figured I just wouldn't use bluetooth.
The other day I thought maybe putting a ferrite bead on the motor cable might stop the EMI.  I dug one out of my ferrite bead drawer and put it on then went for a ride playing music. 

The music played perfectly now matter how fast I pedaled.  I thought "success" the ferrite bead wiped out the EMI.  Then I remembered that I put the 35A controller on the bike since the last time I tried this.  I stopped, and took the bead off and rode home.  No interference.  The controller supplied by RAD apparently produces the EMI all on it's own. 

Quote from: Tree on April 19, 2022, 02:35:04 PM

Quote from: Tree on March 16, 2022, 11:12:02 AM
Anyone here installed the Juiced horn/alarm (https://www.juicedbikes.com/products/juiced-bikes-horn) on their Rad Rover 6+, and if so, how did the install go? I love the volume and it will be perfect for my commutes, but I definitely want to know the install is relatively seamless.

mine just arrived today. i already had the GZilla water bottle holder (https://www.gzila.com/products/rad-power-bike-water-bottle-holder) on my bike so installed it on the 2nd and 5th holes on the right front side.

I bought an identical horn from Amazon.  I experienced what many in the reviews did.  It works, then it just dies.  If you recharge it, the light goes from red to blue, then you hit the horn a couple times and it dies again.

The batteries in these things are crap.  It's a pair of flat 3.7v batteries together in series to get 7.4v.  The one I got was marked over a year old when I got it out.  I just put together a fresh battery pack using a pair of 3.7V AAA size cells.  Put it all together and it's working again. 

Just general wiring knowledge.  I don't know anything of the wiring of the devices you're working with.
How did you make the connections?  Did you use craptastic crimping butt splices?  Did you twist the wires together and wrap them with electrical tape?  Both are bad ideas.
Whenever I'm splicing wires, I solder them together, then use heatshrink.  If it's a bundle, then there's another layer of heatshrink around the entire bundle.  Soldering ensures a connection that won't work loose.
If you've never done that before, there's quite a few videos on butt splicing solder connections.

I took my Acadia into the shop today for an overheating problem. I think I need a bike rack.



The only thing I had to do to make it fit was turn one of the mirrors around.