Quote from: handlebar on October 24, 2022, 04:17:44 PM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on October 24, 2022, 03:33:59 PM

Is there space inside to slip in a small desiccant pack?  Spraying the PCB with conformal coating would also solve that problem.

I hadn't thought about that. There's plenty of space in mine. Before I sealed the bottoms, there was at least once when I thought I had it dry but had to open it again because it still malfunctioned. A desiccant might have prevented the recurrence and maybe prevented the first problem.

I wanted to take the circuit board out, but screws and nuts hold the heat sinks of several transistors to the case. I tried the first and found it tricky to hold the nut in place without a special tool, so I quit while I was ahead.

If I get around to doing mine, I'll take lots of pictures how I did it and post them for you.  I probably won't get to looking at it for a few weeks though.I think spraying the PCB with conformal coating would be a big help in keeping it protected.

There was a deal on the Trak-4 GPS device the other day on Amazon, device for under $20.  Subscription that I'm using is $120/month, that's with 10 minute updates.
I 3d printed a bracket so it mounts to the basket.



It's printed in ABS that was smoothed in an acetone chamber and then mounted with M3 bolts and captive nuts.  It works well.  I got it not just because of theft, but also because my wife worries terribly that something will happen and she won't know where I am.  Now she can jump on her PC or phone and find my location.

Quote from: handlebar on October 24, 2022, 03:08:06 PM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on October 24, 2022, 10:11:32 AM

The other solution would be to figure out a way to seal up the enclosure the PCB is inside.  Maybe use a thin bead of RTV around the seams.  Or maybe spray the entire enclosure with the conformal coating linked above.

I have the Bolton upgrade controller on a Radrunner. The first time I used RTV, I left the bottoms of the end pieces unsealed to allow ventilation. It seems a problem may come from mist, which can be drawn up with air. I haven't had trouble since I sealed the bottoms.

Is there space inside to slip in a small desiccant pack?  Spraying the PCB with conformal coating would also solve that problem.

I got to thinking about this thread while on a ride on wet roads.  It wasn't raining, but it had and the roads were wet, but I didn't go through any puddles.  But my concern is that I have the 35A controller on my RR2 and it's mounted where the factory controller was.  It's low to the ground and there's really no way to cover it to keep the spray out. 

But then I remembered one of my first jobs working for a defense contractor building weapon subsystems.  Any PCB that had the potential to be exposed to wet conditions was conformal coated.  It's a spray that coats the board and basically makes it waterproof.

Fortunately the product is available on Amazon: https://amzn.to/3DKpKJC

I'm thinking about tearing my 35A controller apart and giving it a spray.  There is a drawback to this stuff though and that's if the board gets too hot due to a failure.  It will catch fire.  During my days of testing components that were installed in torpedoes I saw multiple boards catch fire during the tests.  The fire would go out as soon as power was removed, but the fire destroyed the pcb.  Which was a problem because we only had so many spares at the time.  I guess in the case of one of these controllers a new one could be ordered.  If it shorted out and caused a fire, it would have needed to be replaced anyway.

The other solution would be to figure out a way to seal up the enclosure the PCB is inside.  Maybe use a thin bead of RTV around the seams.  Or maybe spray the entire enclosure with the conformal coating linked above. 

Mine works perfectly with the Genie remotes.  This should work with both the single button and the triple button remotes.  It can be downloaded here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5581240

I need to so something similar just with a different remote.

My RR2 had a wobble in both wheels.  I found that when I initially inflated them, the bead of the tire wasn't quite centered on the wheel.  After I opened the valve to put in FlatOut I was more careful during inflation.  Before inflating them I made sure the wheel was off the ground, and centered the tire as best as I could on the wheel and then slowly added air until the pressure held it in place.
No more wobble.

Well, the cells of the battery are probably still good.  Chances are the BMS died.  I'd bet the damage to the board is going to be obvious too.  Some mosfets on there probably let the magic smoke out.

Quote from: JTK77 on October 02, 2022, 01:20:16 PM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on October 02, 2022, 12:45:02 PM
Interesting to ride at night with no headlights.  I can't do that around here, no brightly lit city/suburban streets.

No headlight? Sure I had headlight on 😄

Uh, huh..

I "premium" headlight that I got with my RR2 sucks balls for being a "premium" product.  I just added a set of 1200lm lights.  There's mornings I might be out at 4am and coming home well after sunset.  While I could be seen easily enough, the "premium" headlight isn't enough to ride safely.  I think I'll be good now.



The RR light is pointed down so it picks up what's right in front of me, the add on lights are pointed more up, but not high enough to blind drivers.  The orange lights are my turnsignals in "hazard" mode.  I just happened to catch an image while they were on while flashing. 

I just got them on today, but haven't been out yet, it's been raining here since yesterday.

Interesting to ride at night with no headlights.  I can't do that around here, no brightly lit city/suburban streets.

Uhh, what gauge wire do you have there?

Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5526253

Here is pretty much the final product.  The hardware isn't right, but I have the correct ones coming in later today.  I used 3/16" mild steel as the support plates behind the plastic.  I'll paint it eventually so it doesn't rust.  It feels sturdy enough but I can't actually test it, because I only have one battery for now.
This model took about 9 hours to print at 1.5mm layer heights.  I'll post it to Thingiverse later.  I'll also have a model that's all one piece for those with bigger printers.

Monday I bought a GoPro Hero 4 Session from a fellow Ebiker on Craigslist.  It works, came with an aluminum enclosure, which is blue, but I'm going to order a black one.  The blue just doesn't go with the bike at all, and it stands out.  The mount can pivot so it can watch the bike while parked.

Quote from: Muskie1 on September 20, 2022, 04:43:32 PM
Great crate option  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clever-Crates-25-l-Collapsible-Milk-Crate-in-Grey-and-Black-8534175-AAU/318505231?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D59S-023_016_GARAGE_ORG-NA-Multi-NA-SMART-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-SMART_Organization_Storage_Totes&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D59S-023_016_GARAGE_ORG-NA-Multi-NA-SMART-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-SMART_Organization_Storage_Totes-71700000069657498-58700006150034497-92700072717558306&gclid=CjwKCAjwyaWZBhBGEiwACslQo4PiRKluHIabi-2cxJYvdaCOw7xtfU8Nl_QBQiymgMXaJ10SZrJInhoCSmEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I've had those crates self destruct.  They don't really hold up to abuse well like a regular milk crate.  You can order real milk crates from a couple of sites, not the type that Walmart sells, but real ones.  They generally run $8 to $12 a piece, but they're worth it.  Shipping is kind of high though.