Quote from: Adams on July 15, 2022, 05:57:41 AM
Rad person on phone was helpful and pleasant.  They were simply working down a decision tree matrix to check all the boxes before saying send in pics to verify warrant claim. Haven?t gotten a response from Rad yet, but there are no external signs of an arc or short that could have caused a blown fuse.

I did ride off road through some pretty bouncy stuff just before charging it. Maybe the fuse has a bad solder job and it loosened.

Jcvdd- any update on trying to solve it?

This is a distinct possibility.  Over the past 2 decades or so, there's been a big push to use lead free solder due to the risk of exposure to lead.  Unfortunately that comes with consequences, lead free solder has a tendency to be more brittle, and prone to breaking with sharp impacts.  Much like you'd see on a bike.  The joints can crack along very fine lines and sometimes they'll make contact and others they won't.

The quick way to fix it is to reflow the solder on the broken joints.  The best way to fix it is to remove the lead free solder and flow in good solder.  You can sometimes see the broken joints with your eye or under magnification. 

Also, lead free solder has a greater chance of solder balls being left on the boards.  Most of the time, they'll stay put, but they can break and roll into the circuit causing a short.  Problem is, that you'll probably never find it because once you start tearing the device part, they fall out and they're tiny. 

The last thing that can happen is solder whiskers.  This is when the solder grows very fine hair like appendages that can reach out and touch other joints, causing shorts.  Lead free solder is known to do this, and there's a reason that NASA and any company that produces products for the military doesn't use lead free, because they want their devices to work for the long term.

Don't want to get lead poisoning from your devices, don't lick the circuit boards.

Quote from: Tree on July 26, 2022, 09:27:51 AM
looks awesome!

I've got the Rad Rover 6 Plus, with some panier bags and a small insulated trunk bag for small grocery runs. I've got a milk crate I strap to the back for bigger/taller/deeper stuff, but I'd be out of luck at Costco.

Is that headlight the upgrade Rad one with your own mods, or something else entirely?

Quote from: Tree on July 26, 2022, 09:27:51 AM
looks awesome!

I've got the Rad Rover 6 Plus, with some panier bags and a small insulated trunk bag for small grocery runs. I've got a milk crate I strap to the back for bigger/taller/deeper stuff, but I'd be out of luck at Costco.

Is that headlight the upgrade Rad one with your own mods, or something else entirely?

It's the upgraded light from RadPower, just mounted to a black acrylic plate instead of the forks.

I think I saw you mention a crate in another thread.  Be wary of using a "marked" crate.  Meaning a crate that once belonged to a dairy or other business that uses them.  Many states have made mere possession of marked crates as illegal, because if it's marked, and you're using it, it was stolen.  Not saying you stole it, as you can get marked crates from other sources, just saying that's the assumption when you're found with one.

Back when the law in PA was passed in the mid 80's, there was a big uproar in the Mennonite community because so many of their bikes had crates strapped to them.  Now they use cardboard boxes, even though unmarked crates are readily available.

I got a RadRunner 2 a little over 2 weeks ago for getting myself to my work 10 miles as well as shopping trips to my local grocery store 2.5 miles up, farmer's market, 6+ miles, a[/ind to Costco 6 miles.   

This is as it came while I waited for all the accessories I ordered to arrive, it took a while to get them, due to RadPower choosing FedEx ground as their shipping partner.



First addition was a horn, that also operates as an alarm, they're available on Amazon for around $55.




Eventually (about 2 weeks), the rest of the parts arrived, the large rear basket, the upgraded headlight, upgraded control panel and fenders.



I didn't like the basket mounting across the frame, so I 3D printed some brackets to hold it inline.  I used ABS which I then smoothed with acetone, and they work, but I suspect they're not going to last forever.  I contacted a machinist friend and sent him the STL file of the parts and he's going to make them on his CNC.  I'll then have them anodized.

I ordered a trailer, since I'll need that for grocery store and Costco runs.  It's mounted to the rear axle after I drilled out the mount to fit the axle, and inserted a lock washer into the recess, which is great for holding the original nut on and not letting the trailer bracket loosen it.



My first grocery run with the trailer, a water melon shifted against the wheel, and it promptly ate a hole through the nylon bag and left black tire marks on my melon.  I tossed the bag, and cut some black acrylic to fit as the walls, and 3D printed some brackets to slide onto the uprights and hold them in place using M4 nuts and button head bolts.

The tops of the trailer are/will be wrapped in Armaflex pipe insulation then wrapped in hockey tape, since I sometimes take the kids to the park in it.



The last mod was completed today.  I found with the rear basket on or when the trailer is attached, it throws off the balance with the kick stand, and it wants to rest on the rear wheel instead of the front.  This allows the front wheel to pivot around and smack the headlight out of alignment on the frame.

I grabbed some more black acrylic, cut and drilled it to mount to the front basket bolts.  The Headlight is attached to that using another M4 bolt and nylon lock nut.



The bike fits perfectly in the back of a Ford Transit van. 



Anyway, that's my first post here.