The dashcam in one of my cars is a Rexing, it's been installed for about 3 years.  We've had no problems with it.  I'd buy another one if I had to. 

I'm using a GoPro Session, don't know which version, but it's the little black cube.  Got it used from CL and it works, but it's battery is weak and it's nearly impossible to replace without damaging the camera.  My solution was to power it from the USB port off my display.  I have to keep the door open to keep it plugged in, but that's not a big deal since I don't ride in bad weather.  So far that's been working fine.

When I have a chance I'll dig out my original display and look at it.  I'll see if I can make up a model that can be 3D Printed.

Quote from: Ddaybc on December 06, 2022, 04:23:16 PM
Hitting a horse is almost like hitting a moose. It's such good fortune none of them came inside through the front window.

The height of the suburban and the fact that it has 5' of hood in front of it kept that from happening.  The windshield was hit by the head of the second one I hit.  Had I been driving our other car I would have probably been killed.

See if you can find someone in your local area that can model a replacement and 3D print one for you.  There's lots of helpful people across the country that would probably be able to make that happen.

Glad you're ok, I recently went through the same thing.
About a month ago I totaled my 1999 5500lb suburban when I hit 3 horses that were standing in the middle of the road at 3am.  Not just any horse though, Percherons, each weight about 2000lbs.  Two were ok, one had to be putdown I wasn't injured at all.
I was only driving it that night because our other SUV was in the shop.  That meant riding the bike to go grocery shopping for the next 10 days or so.  Which I had been doing anyway, it was just a little cold.
The family that owned the horses (7 of them were out running) has given us enough to buy a replacement vehicle.  A GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 is coming home this thursday.  And we made friends with the family. 



Dashcam Video: https://youtu.be/SGOVaKdBMNQ

I've been trying to figure out why I'm losing air in both my tubes on my RR2.  Seems the front is losing it faster than the rear.  After a couple of days, front will be down by 10lbs, the rear by 5lbs. 

Quote from: Altema on November 03, 2022, 04:05:44 AM

Quote from: handlebar on October 24, 2022, 03:08:06 PM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on October 24, 2022, 10:11:32 AM

The other solution would be to figure out a way to seal up the enclosure the PCB is inside.  Maybe use a thin bead of RTV around the seams.  Or maybe spray the entire enclosure with the conformal coating linked above.

I have the Bolton upgrade controller on a Radrunner. The first time I used RTV, I left the bottoms of the end pieces unsealed to allow ventilation. It seems a problem may come from mist, which can be drawn up with air. I haven't had trouble since I sealed the bottoms.

Just a quick note that the 35 amp controllers don't need internal ventilation. The power transistors are mounted so they pass their heat to the box which has fins. I have overheated a Bolton motor, but never the controller.

I was wondering about that, thanks.  I have mine mounted at the same spot as the factory with only a slight modification.  I think I needed to drill a hole through the flange of the controller to mount it.  I'll probably work on conformal coating my controller when I finally gets too cold to ride.  Today there's gonna be a high of 70F, and I plan on riding home from work tonight around 10:30pm.

If you can connect that light to an adequate 12V battery that you can carry with you and have a method of recharging that batter, there's no reason why it wouldn't work.  Just do the math on the battery you choose with it drawing 1A.  Be sure the battery you select can supply enough current for the length of time you would need it to be lit. 

In my case, I need full brightness for 30 to 35 minutes.  My lights are able to supply that, but not much more.  As soon as I get home, I plug them into the charger.

Quote from: Tree on October 29, 2022, 04:22:52 PM

Quote from: JedidiahStolzfus on October 29, 2022, 09:28:53 AM

Quote from: Muskie1 on October 29, 2022, 09:18:21 AM
I agree, I did not see a need or I never will cut into factory wiring. My auxiliary lights work awesome, rechargeable.  I get 3 to 4 hours on high beam. I don't do much night riding anymore more mostly strobe for day.
I am by far a electronics engineer  but I still remember what way a diode went in and the resistor codes. BBRYGBVGW.

We learned a mnemonic to remember that.  You're missing some.

Bad   0 Black
Boys  1 Brown
Rape  2 Red
Our    3 Orange
Young 4 Yellow
Girls   6 Green
But     7 Blue
Violet  8 Purple
Gives  9 Grey
Willingly 10 White
Get 0% Gold
Some 10% Silver
Now > 10% No tolerance band
You also don't need to cut into the harness.  You can buy those connectors on Amazon.  They're overpriced, but they're available.

jesus. i hope they've come up with a better mnemonic since then. that's horrid.

Apparently there's a bunch of them: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_electronic_color_code_mnemonics

Quote from: jbfoster on October 29, 2022, 11:18:22 AM
What about this one from Harbor Freight?

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-led-spot-light-57189.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144968772&campaignid=12144968772&utm_content=117441035752&adsetid=117441035752&product=57189&store=241&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnvOaBhDTARIsAJf8eVNG3JGW6dWnBUiLJ7z4dxZbMVUAY4xM8giwMHW-mq9RTDwmdBYDaFkaAmZZEALw_wcB

Specs say it's a 12W unit, if it's running on 12V, that would mean it's drawing 1A.  Is the headlight circuit on the controller capable of supplying a continuous 1A? What's the voltage of the headlight circuit?  If it's more than 12V can this unit handle more than 12V?  If not, it will quickly burn out.

Quote from: Muskie1 on October 29, 2022, 09:18:21 AM
I agree, I did not see a need or I never will cut into factory wiring. My auxiliary lights work awesome, rechargeable.  I get 3 to 4 hours on high beam. I don't do much night riding anymore more mostly strobe for day.
I am by far a electronics engineer  but I still remember what way a diode went in and the resistor codes. BBRYGBVGW.

We learned a mnemonic to remember that.  You're missing some.

Bad   0 Black
Boys  1 Brown
Rape  2 Red
Our    3 Orange
Young 4 Yellow
Girls   6 Green
But     7 Blue
Violet  8 Purple
Gives  9 Grey
Willingly 10 White
Get 0% Gold
Some 10% Silver
Now > 10% No tolerance band
You also don't need to cut into the harness.  You can buy those connectors on Amazon.  They're overpriced, but they're available.

Been reading through several threads here about connecting up non-factory headlights and I see the term "wattage" thrown around a lot.  As though you can take something that is of similar wattage and just connect it without knowing the other variables involved in the circuit. 

Wattage is not set value when it comes to electronics as it can change based upon other values involved.  Please review the Ohm's law diagram.
Wattage is generally calcuated based upon knowing the current and the voltage of the circuit.  So let's look at a basic example for those of you that aren't into electronics. 

Your average hair dryer is 1500W, and in the US it would be running off a 120VAC circuit.
1500W / 120VAC = 12.5Amps
But in Europe and other countries, they use 220VAC
1500W / 220VAC = 6.8Amps
Increasing the voltage supplied lower the current drawn.  Running devices in your home on 220VAC is more efficient as it draws less current.  Less current, less heat.
Now in the cases of headlights I'm seeing lots of values being thrown around without much consideration as to how much current is actually going to be drawn in the circuit.  The headlight circuit in the controllers doesn't supply much, and if you connect something in there that's going to draw more than it can supply you'll quickly burn out the voltage regulator for that part of the controller.  Unless you're really handy with a soldering iron and trouble shooting circuits, you'll be buying a new controller.
Let's do some math, cause math is fun.
You buy a headlight that's an 18W, but it needs 12V to function.
18W / 12V = 1.5A

What if the circuit only supplies .5A or 500mA?  You just tripled the amount of current the circuit needs to supply.  It will work, but only for a little bit before the magic blue smoke is released.
Part of the problem in figuring these things out is what voltage and how much current the headlight circuit is designed to supply.  You can measure the voltage with a standard multimeter and that will give you a start, but unless you can get the manufacturer to tell you how much current the circuit was designed to supply you're just kind of guessing.  And when you're guess, it's best to guess low.
Let's got back to our 18W light.
18W / 36V = .5A  which fits into our example from above.18W / 48V = .375 which again would fit.
You need to know the voltage that the light circuit is supplying before you can make any kind of proper guess if it's going to work without burning out the circuit. 

Most everything in electronics can be expressed as a math equation, even horsepower.  1Hp = 745W, so your 1500W hairdryer is a little more than 2Hp.
How many horsepower does your average horse supply?  Between 20 and 25hp.
Please before you start hooking random lights up to your bike's controller, take some time to measure voltage of the circuit and do the math.  You do not want to release the magic blue smoke of your controller.  Once it's released you can't put it back in.

I looked for lights that could just be plugged into the wiring harness, or if I could modify something that would.  But I couldn't determine with any certainty how much current the headlight circuit of the controller could supply.  I played it safe and the lights are running off their own battery pack.
I 3D printed a plate that mounts to the frame at the existing points and then got a switch mounted to it.  The headlights just plug into the switch using a 2.1mm socket that's wired through the switch.  When I want to charge the battery I unplug the headlights and plug in the charger and turn the switch on. 


Whenever I do a run where I use the headlights when I get back home I plug them in right away because their listed life on a full charge isn't accurate.

Here's my RR2 in a full size high roof Ford Transit.  I think any regular bike would also fit in a standard size transit.