OK - so I purchased a Radmission knowing that some things could use improvement based on the price point. Among what I feel are shortcomings is the single speed chain line. Where simplicity is king, and some folks get into this, the single speed is where to go. However, your torque input to the pedals is fairly low given the 3.125:1 stock gearing, so the result is poor battery life. In hilly SW Wisconsin I was getting around 25-30 miles per charge down to empty. Once you get below about 50% battery the driveline starts to struggle.
I have successfully converted the front drive using a pair (48/38) of 130BCD chainrings, proper spacers and bolts and a vintage derailleur - all from my unloved toy collection. The derailleur was a trick, as there are limited positioning options and this one worked with only a repositioning of the controller up the tube. An old Sun friction shifter on the left bar below the controller interface (I actually used a right one on the left mounted upside down as I like the way that shifts - backward, but easy to use) and routed the cable down the down tube along with everything else. I added a nicer chain guard, as the stock unit is pretty drab. The only last thing necessary was to increase the tension on the chain tensioner by 1 spring point (look at install instructions for that item and you will know what I mean) and I now have a 2 speed front end. FYI, I doubt the stock tensioner can take up more than 10 teeth - and I might change the 38 out for a 40 as it is near it's limits with this configuration.
With the low range gear (2.375:1) I can keep the boost at a 1 or 2 and ride comfortably at 14+mph for the 1st 3 bars of the battery b4 it drops off. Due to gearing and simply the cadence that is comfortable with the stock gearing, I used to ride at 16-17mph at boost 2-3. Due to the improved ability to get leg torque to the wheel in low range, battery life has increased to 30-35 miles/full charge, or about 20%. Also, generally climbing hills or pedaling with no boost (read as dead battery or broken electronics) is easier to manage (obvious).
On high range, a 4% reduction from stock to 3:1, I can tool along all day at 18mph without feeling like my legs are flailing. (if you look at the math here, about the same cadence at 14mph low range as 18mph high range.
All changes are completely reversible.
Posting this so other Radmission owners can contemplate the benefits. Total conversion cost, even if I had to find a new derailleur which would do the job, should be around $125-$175 depending on brand of components used. Of the tweaks I have done thus far, this is the one that has had the most positive impact on rideability. Keep in mind this is from a 62 year old trail rider who is putting down 18-22 miles a day on this machine every day - at least until the snow flies.
Feel free to contact me with any questions, I will try to help.
I have successfully converted the front drive using a pair (48/38) of 130BCD chainrings, proper spacers and bolts and a vintage derailleur - all from my unloved toy collection. The derailleur was a trick, as there are limited positioning options and this one worked with only a repositioning of the controller up the tube. An old Sun friction shifter on the left bar below the controller interface (I actually used a right one on the left mounted upside down as I like the way that shifts - backward, but easy to use) and routed the cable down the down tube along with everything else. I added a nicer chain guard, as the stock unit is pretty drab. The only last thing necessary was to increase the tension on the chain tensioner by 1 spring point (look at install instructions for that item and you will know what I mean) and I now have a 2 speed front end. FYI, I doubt the stock tensioner can take up more than 10 teeth - and I might change the 38 out for a 40 as it is near it's limits with this configuration.
With the low range gear (2.375:1) I can keep the boost at a 1 or 2 and ride comfortably at 14+mph for the 1st 3 bars of the battery b4 it drops off. Due to gearing and simply the cadence that is comfortable with the stock gearing, I used to ride at 16-17mph at boost 2-3. Due to the improved ability to get leg torque to the wheel in low range, battery life has increased to 30-35 miles/full charge, or about 20%. Also, generally climbing hills or pedaling with no boost (read as dead battery or broken electronics) is easier to manage (obvious).
On high range, a 4% reduction from stock to 3:1, I can tool along all day at 18mph without feeling like my legs are flailing. (if you look at the math here, about the same cadence at 14mph low range as 18mph high range.
All changes are completely reversible.
Posting this so other Radmission owners can contemplate the benefits. Total conversion cost, even if I had to find a new derailleur which would do the job, should be around $125-$175 depending on brand of components used. Of the tweaks I have done thus far, this is the one that has had the most positive impact on rideability. Keep in mind this is from a 62 year old trail rider who is putting down 18-22 miles a day on this machine every day - at least until the snow flies.
Feel free to contact me with any questions, I will try to help.