Like Segway is doing?

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Quote from: JimInPT on December 12, 2022, 12:26:23 PM

Quote from: joeliniowa on December 12, 2022, 12:04:38 PMI remember there was one in the sub $1000 range this summer (2022)

The one you're remembering was the Rad Mission, which used to be priced at around US$1000-1100 but went on sale now and then a bit lower and closed out at around $800 as I recall.  Guess they abandoned their mission, whatever it was.

It was a real stripper bike for people on tight budgets, but I assume it was either a poor seller or they couldn't hold down their costs enough to keep it available.  IIRC, it got mediocre reviews as well.

The Radmission is the ONLY Rad Power bike that looks like a real bike (the "highstep" version).  Every other Rad Power ebike looks goofy to me (a former road racer and pro race mechanic).  Especially when I see men riding bikes without a proper top tube.  I only bought the Radmission because of the $500 sale in late October.   

Quote from: Altema on December 14, 2022, 02:07:24 PM

Quote from: nextcity on December 14, 2022, 12:51:15 PM
Good thread.  Anyone find a good way of protecting your controller from the cold and rain?  Controller (box), not the LCD screen.

Like a neoprene sleeve that wraps around them.  I can't find anything online.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I did not find neoprene covers, but there are several hard covers on Amazon. One of them is listed below, but you'll need to measure whichever box you are considering to make sure it's big enough, but not too big. I thin neoprene would work better though in your case. That being said, the Rad controller does not really need any special protection. I've ridden mine in rain, mud and snow, and I wash the controller off with a pressure sprayer. Cold has never bothered my controller, and I've ridden mine at -2?F. Rad does not recommend riding in temperatures below 4?F, but that is for the sake of the battery, and I was using a battery jacket. If I fin any other suitable covers, I post it here. Stay safe in the cold!

Link to hard cover:  https://amzn.to/3WmEO8B

Thanks for the info.  It's good to know I don't have to worry about the controller.  Those ugly screws are reason enough for me to want to throw a neoprene cover over it.  Any idea where to get a neoprene cover? 

Quote from: Altema on December 14, 2022, 02:27:19 PM
No, you won't harm the stock motor by running it without a load. It will just reach it's specified RPM and stay there for as long as it has power.
Balancing the battery is a good thing to do, but don't feel like it's an emergency or you have to rush it. The purpose of it is to balance out the individual battery cells inside your battery pack, and it's usually recommended for batteries which are new or have been unused for a while.

If you do decide to go though the process (it WILL give you something to do!), then make sure there are no pets of visiting children that could injure themselves on the spinning wheel. It will take a long time to run the battery down like this because, without a load, it will only draw enough power to keep the wheel spinning, and that is not much (8 to 12 watts?). To make it easier, take a wide rubber band, and put it right on the gap between the twist throttle and the handlebar grip. This will act like a cruse control, and the friction will keep the throttle in whatever position you twist it to. Make sure you take the band off before riding, and never try a thin rubber band because it can go down into the gap, and possibly jam or break, leaving debris inside the gap. Have fun, and resist the temptation to open a bottle of beer on the spinning tire 

Thank you.  This is great news.  I live alone and don't have pets.  I've got a good repair stand too (Park PRS-3) with a weight limit well over 100 pounds.  I'm old, live in the north, and may not get out too often on this Radmission, so it's good to know I can keep both batteries conditioned this way. 

The one you're remembering was the Rad Mission, which used to be priced at around US$1000-1100 but went on sale now and then a bit lower and closed out at around $800 as I recall.  Guess they abandoned their mission, whatever it was.

It was a real stripper bike for people on tight budgets, but I assume it was either a poor seller or they couldn't hold down their costs enough to keep it available.  IIRC, it got mediocre reviews as well.
[/quote]

$400 plus tax after discounts (the $499 sell off from late October).  I can see why it has poor reviews.  It's basically a department store quality bike with an electric rear hub.

Good thread.  Anyone find a good way of protecting your controller from the cold and rain?  Controller (box), not the LCD screen.

Like a neoprene sleeve that wraps around them.  I can't find anything online.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm a new Radmission owner (yes, the $499 sale).  New to ebikes altogether.  I also recently purchased a spare battery, as they went on sale.

However, it's too cold (and I am too old and sickly) to get out to ride the required first three times (followed by the 12 charge) to condition the new battery.

I'm wondering if I can just run down the battery by just running the rear wheel via the throttle while in my Park repair stand (without doing damage)?  I know nothing about rear electric bike hubs and was wondering if the lack of weight (having a rider) would somehow damage the electric  hub.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm a new Radmission owner (yes, the $499 sale).  New to ebikes altogether.  I also recently purchased a spare battery, as they went on sale.

However, it's too cold (and I am too old and sickly) to get out to ride the required first three times (followed by the 12 charge) to condition the new battery.

I'm wondering if I can just run down the battery by just running the rear wheel via the throttle while in my Park repair stand (without doing damage)?  I know nothing about rear electric bike hubs and was wondering if the lack of weight (having a rider) would somehow damage the electric  hub.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

First off, thanks for indirectly informing me of a feature a did not know the bike had.  I'm new to ebikes.  I'm one of those people who recently picked up a Radmission for $499 when they were liquidating the model.

I do, however, have a forty year history in building custom road and mountain bikes.  I have a small fleet of "real" bikes ("real" as in all high-end frames and components, not that I'm mocking ebikes).

Back to the subject.  My Radmission does not seem to be consistent, just as you have found.  The amount of seconds (and fractions of seconds) that it takes to both engage (holding down the button) and disengage (time after release of the button) is different each time. 

On a separate subject, the Radmission's high-tensile steel front fork and the cheap chain tensioner are things I am looking for help and advice on upgrading.

Radmission batteries just went on sale for $200 with free shipping on their site.  That's another reason to believe it's being discontinued or replaced with a new version. 

I just picked up another.  Using PayPal Honey gets you another $28.55 off.

I was one of those that grabbed one at $499.  It came in a box that had it labeled as a Radmission 1.5.  Anyone know what the 1.5 is about?