Quote from: Mori55 on October 23, 2022, 05:30:28 PM
You don?t need to bleed them when you run it through the frame. Look at the YouTube video.

I believe you're thinking of the BGB hydraulic brakes, which do not come with the hoses attached to the levers (and which have the video showing how to run through the frame). The Area 13 brakes come with hoses attached at both ends; disconnecting will likely introduce air, which means bleeding will need to follow.

I have a RR+ and Iive in an area with plenty of hills, including some steep ones. While I can't answer your specific question concerning range of teeth, I have been able to conquer some ridiculously steep and lengthy inclines in first gear with PAS 3-5 (and in at least one case a great deal of sweat and huffing as well). Unless you're doing 10+% climbs for significant distances at a time, I believe the RR+ can handle most hills that the world can throw your way.

Here's a real-world example of a recent ride, with two lengthy and fairly steep climbs. I'm in maybe average to slightly-below-average fitness for a 40ish year old, but I was able to handle the worst inclines in first gear at a consistent PAS 2 (sometimes 3). (I might have done a higher PAS, but I was riding with a friend on a regular bike who was struggling just to make it up the hills at all despite being in better shape!)

I would NOT have tried that ride in a standard Radrunner.

I remember someone recently posted a picture of another Rad bike model, with his hunting rifle mounted perpendicular to the bike on a front basket, on the RadPowerBikes subreddit. The bike did not have any large baskets or anything attached to be the rear, and IIRC one of the comments questioned how he was going to pack out any meat -- I don't think he ever responded!

Is bike theft a big problem in your town? If so, I would absolutely avoid relying on a cable in any capacity. I live in Metro Vancouver (BC), and bike components secured via cable will disappear in a heartbeat. If you're in a similar situation, I would suggest at the very least carrying a Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U-lock, a Kryptonite Evolution chain with either integrated lock or with an included disc lock, and a good disc lock. The U-lock goes through frame, rear wheel if possible, and a secure rack/etc.; the chain goes through frame, front wheel, and rack/etc.; and the disc lock goes through rear brake rotor. You'd also want to consider options for deterring component theft, such as installing a security skewer for the front wheel, replacing the quick-release for your seatpost with a clamp using a bolt, and using Hexlox magnets on bolts securing important bits (e.g. seatpost clamp, headtube).

To be clear, none of these measures will stop a determined thief. But if that thief sees my secured bike parked near a less-secured bike, they'll steal the one that's easier to free up. It's like that old saying--when running from a bear, you don't have to be faster than the bear, you just have to be faster than anyone else that's running away.

You might be able to get away with a less onerous security option if bike theft rates aren't high in your city. But hey, this isn't a cheap bike. It might be worth it to splurge on security options.

There are steps you can take to avoid getting stuck leaving your bike behind. On longer rides, I bring a trunk bag carrying tools that would cover the most common problems (spare tube, patch kit, air pump, tire levers, multitool, adjustable wrench) as well as a U-lock and disc lock. You can fix or change a flat tube in the field, and the other tools are useful to address other common problems that arise.

I'm not saying you can be fully prepared for everything, obviously. But with proper maintenance and decent preparedness, I'd be less worried about mechanical failures (or even electrical failures, since you can still pedal with the electric assist off) and more worried about an accident causing a wheel to bend or something like that. If that happens, I'd try to lock up and either make my way home or call a taxi/Uber (yes, you should have your phone on you, why wouldn't you?). If you can get access to a car, or even a sympathetic Uber driver, most Rad bikes with the front wheel detached can fit into a vehicle with the back row of seats folded down.

Quote from: ElectricRides on September 27, 2022, 03:01:25 PM
I did the swap out for the hydraulic brakes that Area 13 is selling on my Runner Plus, almost went with the BGB brake set but went with the 4 pistons instead. The installation was surprisingly easy and the performance is great.

I'm about to pull the trigger on these. I'm curious, did you run the rear brake through the frame? And if so, I assume you needed to bleed them after - do you have a bleed kit you'd recommend?

Quote from: tacomanatx on September 27, 2022, 06:29:30 AM
I use my Park Stand as a bike holder 99% of the time.  I just put the horn of the seat on horizontal bar.   You can likely do most of what you need in this fashion to the rear.

I'm starting to think this is what I'll have to do, with a Park or similar style stand. I had considered an Ibera-style utility stand (example), but the weight-bearing capacity for most models is not great, and I'd worry about the brake cable routed under the chainstay being pulled or damaged by the mount. I don't love the idea of hooking the horn of the seat on the stand, but it's about the only option I'm hearing about that wouldn't require me to lift the entire weight of the bike. Thanks for the advice.

I've recently developed a medical condition (mild inguinal hernia) that imposes lifting and straining restrictions. That makes my Radrunner Plus great for tackling hills without overexerting, but the 70ish-pound weight creates problems for positioning the bike for maintenance and repairs, particularly when working on derailleurs, chain, brakes, etc.

I used to just lift the front wheel of the bike and flip it over the back of the bike to work on it upside-down, but my doctor said that I probably should not do that anymore if I don't want to make the hernia worse. At most, I can probably lift one wheel to a short height for a few seconds, as long as much of the weight is distributed to the other wheel. So I looked into retail bike repair stands, but pretty much all of them seem to require that the full weight of the bike be lifted up to mount it on the stand, which is apparently out of the question. And since I'm renting a small apartment (with bike stored in a shared parking garage locker room), I can't install a pulley system mounted to walls or the ceiling.

Does anyone here know of any reasonably-priced retail repair stands (or other options I might not be thinking of) that are suited for users with lifting restrictions? Any advice is appreciated!

Since I already use a Pinhead skewer on my front wheel, I decided to get a matching seatpost clamp from Pinhead when I upgraded my saddle. However, I am finding that the clamp is almost impossible to tighten enough to prevent the seatpost from sliding downward under my weight after cycling a few kilometers. I will tighten as much as I can, pressing with my palm to keep the key in the bolt to avoid slippage until I am practically injuring myself, and yet the post still will not stay secured in place. I do not have this same problem with an old seatpost clamp that is tightened with an M5 bolt, nor with the quick release clamp that came with my bike.

I am using a 31.8mm clamp on my Radrunner Plus. I understand that to be the correct size for this bike, and it sure looks like it fits properly. Also, I am not especially heavy (about 73kg/160lb), so I don't think the seat is under excess pressure.

Has anyone else had success with the Pinhead seatpost clamp on a Rad bike? Am I doing something wrong, and/or is there something more I can do to make this work? Should I consider another solution for securing my seatpost instead?

Quote from: Premo on June 17, 2022, 03:33:08 PM
Point is my controller is now waterproof, nicely tucked away and in its own nice looking box. I?ve done the legwork so you don?t have to!

Here?s the links and some photos, please let me know if you have any questions!

Thank you for sharing. Have you had a chance to try this setup out in rainy conditions? How has it held up when it's wet out?

Quote from: Eric7 on June 16, 2022, 03:05:32 PM
Thanks for the information.  But I am not sure what you are talking about.

Which motor drop in are you referring to? Is this something like a motor advertised as a "true 750 watt" motor?  I assume 3rd party and not from Rad?

Or is this something from Rad?

Not OP, but this is probably a reference to the 1000w Bafang from Eunorau that some folks have successfully installed in their Radrunner Plus. This is distinct from the "true 750w motor" some have installed on other Rad bikes, most notably because the connection cord comes out the opposite end (as is true of the stock motor in the RR+ and the RadExpand 5).

Quote from: h2ngo on June 01, 2022, 10:06:42 AM
Thanks everyone for your replies.  I didnt end up buying the auto lug nut locks but i think in theory they would work.  My concern was that they all have a conical tapered contact point with the axle and i was worried it could damage the bike if over tightened, as the contact surface area is small.  the cone shape is meant to fit flush with car wheels i think.  I ended up buying the ebike package from pinhead which has all the components i need and pinhead confirmed with me their solid axle security nuts fit with my Rad Runner.  It does cost an extra $20 to get the m12 size security nuts though.

https://pinheadlocks.com/shop/en/lock-packages/105-2969-e-bike-quick-release-and-solid-axle-2-pack-wheel-locks-quick-release-f-and-solid-axle-r.html#/1-spare_key-_/3-key-with_key/13-axle_diameter_lock_nut-3_8_solid_axle/97-quick_release_axle_length-125_mm_standard_front

Thanks for taking the time to share this. I've been debating a Pinhead nut for my RR+ rear wheel to complement a Pinhead QR skewer on my front wheel, so knowing that the M12 nut works on the real wheel is useful.

Good idea for a poll. First thing I did when I purchased mine was move an existing Pinhead rear skewer onto the front wheel of my RR+, mount a U-lock bracket, and arrange a point for wrapping a good chain lock around the rear seat. Other mods are important, but none of them are worth much if your bike gets stolen - security first!

Interesting approach - I don't think I've seen anyone else put together a pannier solution that raises the connection point above the rack. It looks like that could pair well with a trunk bag mounted in the middle of the rack, such as some of the Topeak MTX bags.

Quote from: Tony on June 06, 2022, 12:49:23 PM
My 35 amp controller is hidden in a controller box. I went out a few evening ago with the weather forecast showing little chance of rain. I secured my bike outside at my destination putting the bag over the display and seat cover just in case. It rained fairly hard to my surprise.
On the way home at a leisurely ride, the bike started to fly along at full power and showing an erratic speedo. I got the bike under control by natural reaction of squeezing the brakes a little, this cut power to the motor as it should. This happened again further along making it difficult to manoeuvre  when turning at junctions.
  Arriving home I got off the bike and it shot off on its own with my trying to hold on to it. The front wheel climbed up the front of my wife?s car, with the bike almost vertical I managed to quickly pull it over sideways and apply the brake which cut the motor.    It was pretty late, I  don?t think anyone saw this happen but if they did they must have had a laugh at this old fella with the electric bike.  Little damage done just a few scratches to my bike. Next day the bike seems to have dried out and runs normally, I haven?t taken it apart yet to look inside the controller.
Still very pleased with the performance of this controller but it?s powerful  when it?s out of control.

That's a disconcerting experience, especially since you are using a controller box as well. I'm not sure an aftermarket box would really fit at the controller mounting point for RR+'s anyway, but this doesn't make it sound like they (or at least the one you're using) provide much protection.