Battery charger green light

[Rburian]

New bike, battery charger green light always on, even when not plugged into battery.

[FortunatelyTheMilk]

That's normal.Does it go red when you plug in a battery that needs charging?

[Rburian]

After i connected the battery several times , the green light on the charger finally turned red, until charged.

[FortunatelyTheMilk]

Cool If it's a new battery, you'll need to leave charging for up to 12hrs for the first 3 charges to balance the battery.

[bpjohns]

We have the situation where the green light stays on, won't go to red when plugged into the battery, and the battery is not charging.  Anyone have this or a suggestion?

[DCH3416]

We have the situation where the green light stays on, won't go to red when plugged into the battery, and the battery is not charging.  Anyone have this or a suggestion?

Test/replace the battery fuse:
https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002324673-Battery-Fuse-Replacement-Guide

[bpjohns]

Yes that is the solution, replace the 5 amp fuse.

[JoeSoMD]

This answer not applicable to the RadCity 5+.  There is no owner-accessible fuse afaik.  I have same problem.  Battery will not charge.  Have two 5+ at home, each with own charger.  Neither charger will "charge" the problematic battery.

[JimInPT]

This answer not applicable to the RadCity 5+.  There is no owner-accessible fuse afaik.  I have same problem.  Battery will not charge.  Have two 5+ at home, each with own charger.  Neither charger will "charge" the problematic battery.

It's a monumentally-dumb design to bury a fuse, especially when Rad had it right the previous generation, but DickB has posted a thread about how to access/change the fuse if you're up to it.  If Rad sends a replacement battery and you get to keep the original "bad" one, I'd have a go at it.

https://www.radowners.com/index.php?topic=1655.msg8334

[DickB]

Here are a couple of photos by an owner who replaced the 10A charge fuse.

Another owner did so without removing the battery; just opened the charge end cap, cut a slit, and removed the 10A fuse with a needle-nose pliers.

[Radding Along]

I have read on other forums that there has been a rash of problems when owners use their key to pull back the rubber protective cap on the battery charging area. The metal key creates a spark, which kills the fuse. Never use a metal object to pull back the rubber flap.

In addition, Rad suggests plugging the charger into the battery first, then plug the charger in the wall. I am fairly confident everyone does the opposite with perfect results.  But think about it, if the charger is plugged into the wall first, then you plug  the charger into the battery, you do run the risk of creating a spark, which could kill the fuse. To be safe, follows Rad's direction and plug the charger in the wall last.

[Veggyhed]

This is good advice. Smart plug helps one adhere to this advice.

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[DickB]

If you plug the charger in first, it will be in Constant Voltage mode and present the float voltage 54.6V at the battery plug.  A depleted battery can be as low as 40V. The voltage difference causes a current surge when you then plug the charger into the battery which may blow the charge fuse.

[Veggyhed]

Damn. So the fuse is the fall back. Wish it didn't have to work like this. I never even thought about this until now.

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[cvincross]

I had this problem develop after some bumpy terrain.  Reseating the charge fuse under the rubber flap on the back of the battery did the trick.  This is odd.  As the fuse fits tightly. The fuse wasn't blown.  But the battery charges fine now.   So go figure.